Top 20 Polaroid FLM-3232 Television - Page 2 Questions & Answers

See this website for detailed info: http://blog.coppelltvrepair.com/2010/09/how-to-test-power-supply-r0804-0901.htmlRemove power board. Using 2 12v car batteries hooked in series, temporarily apply 24v to the CN2 and CN3 connectors. If tv operates fine, then the power board needs to be rebuilt. If problem persists, then the power board is good and the main board has some bad capacitors on it.

The resistor values can be calculated by means of the color-coded bands that are printed on them. This color code chart will be of great help
http://media.photobucket.com/image/resistor color code chart/Live4soccer7/360fullres/resistor_color_code_chart.jpg
If you have any trouble calculating it, please get me the pictures of the resistors so that I can calculate it for you.

In case of FLM-3232 this can be both the main board and the power board.

I'd say the odds are in your favor that it is the power board - this is the more common scenario.

If you test the board and find that it produces proper primary voltage, though, then the problem is in the main board.

This is also curable sometimes, but unfortunately at least presently we do not offer a repair service for it.

For more details see here:

HOW TO TEST FLM-3232 POWER BOARD:
http://blog.coppelltvrepair.com/2010/09/how-to-test-power-supply-r0804-0901.html

FLM-3232 POWER BOARD REPAIR SERVICE:
http://blog.coppelltvrepair.com/2010/04/polaroid-flm-3232-power-board-r0804.html

Hope this helps!

Problem will be in the T-Con Board.
Encompass Parts Distribution 1-800-638-3328
Look for parts on Shopjimmy.com
EBay is another place for parts.

Hello
Your TVs T'Con board [video display board whic controls the pixels of the screen] is damaged. There will be tow flat strp wires goes from this board to the display panel. Flip off these tow flat cables out from its sockets and reinsert them back again as it was. If the fault is due to any loose connection to the socet the fault will be cleard out. If it does not help you, replace this board with same type and number.
This board can be located at the bottom center part of the screen, normally covered with a metal shield to prevent it from external electrical interference. The picture of the board is given here. OK.

You may have dry capacitors in the signal board. If you do pull the signal board out (has all the rca and rf connections) look for the smallest electrolytic capacitors. These small babies may test good in circuit, when in fact they are not. They will be easy to find as they are the shortest and are located next to the larger capacitor,or capacitors. This work is very time consuming and not a one day project. Take your time. Once again an ESR meter may not find these bad caps. You will have to remove those you suspect and replace with fresh caps. The other thing is to inspect the power supply board, as the inverters are located here. I have had no problems in this area yet. Thanks for asking and show all hands of support!

I had the same thing happen to me a time or two and after extensive troubleshooting I found a simple solution which will hopefully work for you as well- at least in the short run:
Unplug the TV for 30 seconds or so. Then plug it in and try again.
Unfortunately you're probably going to eventually run into the same problem that I'm having now- the TV won't turn on or even light the indicator. I'm guessing it's a short somewhere that caused both issues which slowly escalated. I'm going to be working on that soon to see if I can just replace a fuse.

The most likely reason for this is puffed up filter capacitors in the power supply.

All modern TV sets (including yours) have what is called a "standby" power supply inside; it is active all the time (even when the set is off) and this is an area where to save money they use cheaper parts.

The caps are rated for a given value and for VOLTAGE; most standby power supplies are about 12 volts although it varies from set to set; put in 12 volt rated caps and the heat from constant use dries them out in a year or two.

The reason this is done is if you make 10,000 sets the difference in cost from 12 volt rated (or less) caps versus 16 or 25 volt rated caps in production is a nice amount of money---they do not care it will fail as long as it lasts at least a year.

This is common also in desktop computer towers: I will attach in a few minutes a photo of typical looking cap----note the top is silver with creases and should be ABSOLUTELY FLAT.

A visual look at the caps on the power board (follow power cord to it) will show if this is the problem; I have had sets where several were puffed up and gradually it got harder and harder to turn set on and or get it to stay on.

Caps that are in this condition will tend to try to work when they get hot, hence after the set is on for a while it stays on.

Buying another power board if this is the problem only buys you some time, it will in the future do the same thing----the solution if this is the problem is to replace the caps with high quality ones rated at a HIGHER voltage-----all the caps will have the value in Uf (micro farad) and the voltage rating (vdc-voltage direct current) marked on them and have a + and - marked for positive and negative side.

The caps are all with 2 leads, with the board out a fairly easy repair--you can see which are bad and the values are printed on them.

SD TECH

Hello

If your device does not respond to the remote after trying all codes listed for your brand, or if your brand is not listed, try

searching for your code:

1. Press a device key once.

2. Press and hold SET until the red LED blinks twice; then release.

3. Enter 9-9-1, then the device group number (0= Cable, 1= TV, 2= VCR, 3= Audio). The LED blinks twice.

4. Aim the remote at the device and press Power. The remote sends IR codes from its library to the selected device,

starting with the most popular code first. If the device responds, go to step 7.

5. If the device does not respond, press CH+. The remote will try the next code. Continue until the device responds.

• Note: Press CH- to try the previous code.

6. To search for other device codes, repeat steps 1 to 5.
7. Press SET to save and exit.

If you have set up the remote using the procedure in "Searching for Your Code", you may need to find out which four-digit

code is operating your equipment.

For example, to find out which code is assigned to your TV:
1. Press TV once.

2. Press and hold SET until the red LED blinks twice; then release.

3. Enter 9-9-0. The LED blinks twice.

4. To view the code for the first digit, press 1. Count the LED blinks (for example, three blinks = 3), and write down

the number in the appropriate code listing in step 8 under "Programming a Device".

• NOTE: If a code digit is 0, the LED does not blink.

5. Repeat step 4 for the four remaining digits, using 2 for the second digit, 3 for the third digit, 4 for the fourth digit,

and 5 for the fifth digit.
6. To check for other device codes, repeat steps 1-5, substituting the device key for TV

Tv power supply board is the causes and the problems.It dead.That the board,where the power a/c cord plug into it.Tries websites like Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com to buy a whole refurbish power supply board for the replacement.

check the setting

I had same problem can't turn on find out the power supply board is bad
check Ebay for you power supply

Check the caps in the 24vdc power supply for the backlights inverter board and the backlight inverter board itself for shorted circuits.
It can also be the T-CON board.
First, look at the screen in darkened room to see if you can see any slight glow from the screen, if it does, then the problem can be the T-CON (not getting the 12vdc) or the main logic board not feeding the signals to the T-CON board. if not, next place to check will be the power supply module, make sure it has 24vdc which is required by the backlight inverter to work, the reason for not having 24vdc can be from bad DC filter caps (leaking/bulging top, high ESR) or short circuits in the inverter board which will cause the 24vdc supply to go into shutdown mode, so you may have to disconnect the power cable that feed the inverter board to see if the 24vdc will work without the inverter board hookup, you will need to apply about 3~4 amp of load to the 24vdc to make sure it can handle that. There are fuses on the backlight inverter boards also. So there is some troubleshooting you will have to do to find out the causes of the problem you are having. If you are going to DIY and have proper tools, electronics knowledge, and know safety precaution then please read on: Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide: http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague Parts: www.shopjimmy.com Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/Default.aspx he can make you a set of caps. Or www.digikey.com, just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current and long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series. Please post back what you find. Please leave rating if it helps.

I hate to say it, but it is prob the main board that went bad. (the board where all the inputs get plugged into) It is possible that it might be the power supply. One thing to check is to make sure you have 25v coming from the powersupply board to the connectors that plug into the main board. If you do have 24-25v than you will have to replace the main board. If not than the powersupply.

bad caps in power supply and also on video board, you tube show some of the things that happens with this set

No sound on ALL sources, DVD, VCR, ETC?

Let verify first to narrow down to where the problem can be. First, make sure the MUTE or SAP function is not activated, then check the on screen sound set up menu to make sure the speakers are not set to OFF. If the setting is OK, then attach the powered PC speakers to the Audio Line out RCA jacks (Red and White) to see if you can get the sound there, if you do, then the problem can be in the power amp circuits, if you do not get the sound at RCA jacks, then the problem can be in the sound processor circuit. If it needs shop repair, you can expect $150 and up repair bill.

Please post back what you find. http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/ Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague Parts: www.shopjimmy.com Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/Default.aspx he can make you a set of caps. Or www.digikey.com just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current, long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series. Please leave rating if it helps

Same thing happened. I unplugged it and everything for a couple of days then turned it on. Went to the menu and put reset to default. The V chip was then activated. If that happens to you too try 8202.

HEATSINK HAS BEEN DAMAGED

This happened to me too, try 8202.

Yes,it repairable.The tv have power at all like the LED power light indication flashes?Yes,tries websites like Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com to buy a refurbish power supply board for the replacement.No power LED light indication all.The power supply board is dead and also the Tuner signal board is dead.Must replaced both boards.