Top 20 Weather King 12AJA4801AH Air Conditioner Questions & Answers

yes, and 12 SEER for the 12aja

you are missing some numbers after the JA and with the 8 in there I would say you are missing a 4. That would make it 10AJA4801 which would be a 10 SEER 4 ton

yes.

www.rheem.com/contact I believe it was made by Rheem.

12,000 btu equals one ton. The model number starts with 12, so it's a 12,000 btu unit which equals one ton. Garcuda

If the gas lights & doesn't stay on, then there is a flame sensing issue. Remote sensor may have flame impingement (dirty). Clean flame rod sensor with light sandpaper or cloth.

Stuck pressure switch. Try removing small tube at inducer draft motor and pressure switch, located in the heating compartment, and making sure line is clear. Also try cleaning out small nipple on draft motor assy. with a small wire or paper clip as these get clogged easily too. You can also hook the small tubing to the pressure switch and blow and suck in and you should hear the switch opening and closing. The draft motor running is what causes the negative pressure to pull in that switch. Any debris or clogged with stop operations. Also make sure the flue is unrestricted if that doesn\'t fix it. Hope this helps. Happy Holidays!

Which fan are you speaking of?the stat would be indoor fan, while the contactor will be the condenser fan motor!

This is a 4 ton model condensing unit. You can go up 1/2 ton for the evaporator, meaning a 4 1/2 (A) coil will work just fine and allow a bit more cooling capacity.

replace igniter

Don't keep in nutral position (50%) since the cut off and cut on ma be frequently. But your thermostat seems to be faulty as per your statement. Replace it.

Hi,
Sounds like the high pressure switch is bad...(reset button)

But before bypassing it or anything like that you need to get gauges on there and see exactly what is happening...

Call a tech to check things out for you and replace the high pressure (safety) switch...

heatman101

All you need to do is copy down the model and serial number and call the local weather king rep or even a dealer and they can tell you. Most units have a minimum of 5 year compressor warranty and 1 year on parts. Many units have 10 year compressor warranty and 5 year parts. It would be worth your while to check. Hope this helps.

Hi, When winter weather strikes, you want to be ready. Aside from weatherizing your home, making sure that your furnace is working properly is important. Amongst the numerous common problems you may run into over the years is finding that your heat pump no longer works properly. While there are a few things, like cleaning the dust out of certain areas in the furnace, that can help prevent this from happening, most people fail to do them often enough. Before you call a heating specialist to your home that cold winter's morning, consider fixing this problem yourself. The repair can be costly if done by a professional, but it can be really simple to do yourself.

Things You'll Need

Phillips screwdriver
Socket wrench
Furnace motor
Wire strippers
Wire nuts
Electrical tape


Instructions


Shut off the furnace circuit breaker in your home. Be sure to tell everyone in the house that you are working on the furnace to avoid them accidentally turning this circuit breaker back on prematurely. It helps to leave a note on the circuit breaker box reminding residents about your project also.

Remove the heat pump blower compartment door. This sometimes requires unscrewing screws with the help of a screwdriver, but oftentimes the door opens up without the unscrewing process. This depends on your furnace model and the level of safety and security the manufacturer determined was necessary for that particular furnace model.

Unscrew the screws holding and securing the wiring house cover with a Phillips screwdriver.

Find the blower motor and determine which wires connect to the motor. Unscrew the wire nuts that connect the furnace to the motor. Tug the blower motor wires out through the wiring housing's bottom portion.

Using a socket wrench, gently undo the bolts holding the blower assembly to the furnace. There generally are only two bolts that need to be removed during this step. Pull the blower assembly out from the furnace. Loosen the motor shaft with your screwdriver. This will separate it from the heating blower squirrel cage. Use your socket wrench to loosen and remove the three bolts holding the motor bracket to the squirrel cage. The squirrel cage should be facing up to make this process easiest.

Take the blower motor completely out of the squirrel cage by pulling the motor bracket away from the housing. Using a socket wrench, undo the last bolt that is securing the bracket band over the heating blower motor.

Remove the motor from its bracketing. Replace this old motor with a new motor and reassemble all of the bracketing. Secure the new motor and bracket band back to the squirrel cage. Secure everything back into place as it originally was and then remember to reconnect the furnace wiring to this new heating blower's motor wiring. You will have to strip a portion of the new motor wiring in order to be able to connect them to the furnace wiring with wire nuts. It helps to wrap these new connections with standard electrical tape for added comfort and security.


Close the furnace back up and turn the power back on. Check your work to see if the furnace is functioning properly.


Tips & Warnings

It usually will take a few minutes for the furnace to kick into full blast after you first turn it on. Therefore, you should always wait a few minutes for the furnace to heat up first before you deem your project a success or a failure.

Though this particular job does not call for a lot of electrical work, you should always turn the furnace circuit breaker off prior to beginning your project. It is also a good idea to always leave a note on the circuit breaker box telling residents about the nature of your project and asking them not to turn the power back on to that particular circuit breaker.

have you call the maker all they need is your model number

Hi,

Here is a list of each common terminal and what their commonly used for. Alsolisted is what colors are commonly used. NEVER ASSUME these are what youhave. Verify all your wires by following each to each piece of equipment. Thiswill help you to be able to match your equipment with the terminal.

Here is the rest of the tip that I wrote...

Thermostat Wiring and Terminal Designations
heatman101

Hi,

Here is a tip about troubleshooting your air conditioner...
There are many things that can cause your air conditioner not to cool...

AirConditioner Trouble - Review the Possibilities

heatman101

it sounds like you have a bad connection in the motor
replacing the motor will likely solve your problem

The unit must defrost regularly when icing conditions occur and long enough to get rid of the ice and short enough to not waste energy. There is usually a best place for the sensor or thermostat on the outdoor coil just after the metering. Some manufactures have a tubing stub for the thermostat and others a well. If you remove or change the sensor try to mark where it was. Failure to place it in the correct place will cause the unit to either not defrost or the cycle will be too short and the unit will build ice anyway. Place it at the wrong end of the coil and you will get no defrost activity. When the compressor runs the clock runs and time is accumulated. At the selected intervals the clock will energize a defrost event through a thermostat or a sensing bulb, If the temperature of the sensor (refrigerant filled sensing bulb on the Ranco E-15) is below 28 degrees F. the defrost will take place. When the temperature of the sensor rises to 50 or 70 degrees F Or 10 minutes elapses the defrost cycle is terminated. A typical defrost cycle should be from 1.5-3 minutes.

Could be bad limit switch or heat exchanger