20 Most Recent Weather King 12AJA4801AH Air Conditioner - Page 4 Questions & Answers

You do not have to remove the coils. Just carefully lift the top with the motor and set it aside (power off). Spray the outside with a foaming cleaner (Dow bathroom) and flush from inside out.

check the inside coil is dirtyor may be low on freon

Wow, this is a new one on me! Are you using true OEM parts for your source? If not, you may be getting sub standard parts. There are some companies that use generic parts and this isn't a good thing to do sometimes. Weatherking is a Rheem/Ruud product.

You do not need a warranty card for your warranty to be valid. Your installing contractor provides the labor warranty and the factory provides the warranty on parts. All the necessary information to make a (parts) warranty claim is embedded in the serial number of your unit. As for a manual you should contact the installing company or visit the Weatherking (Rheem) site to request this information. www.weatherking.com

R-22, if it were R-410A then it would have a pink sticker on it near the service ports. You would know for sure.

Go buy a new thermostat and follow the directions in the package. The wires are pretty simple. R terminal is power, W is heat, Y is cool, G is fan, C is common. On a typical thermostat you will have all these with the exception of the C term. It will either be RC and RH with a jumper between them. Leave the jumper in if you don't have a 5 wire system. Make sure you lable your wires coming out of the wall because you don't want to have to open up the indoor unit to check them.

Red goes to rc/rh
White to W
Green to G(fan)
Yellow to y
If a common it's usally blue or black

Hey kellyrepp -- Three things to check quickly, so many things can be wrong, but i will try to help with the info you gave me.

The first sounds like your electric aux heat is not wired in or not working correctly , this should kick in when the heat pump cannot keep up with desired set temperature. For sure thats a problem

The second thing i would check is that the compressor for that unit is running. It should sound exactly like the one for the upstairs, the fan noise should be like a whrrrr , and the compressor should be a semi loud hummm.

Third feel the pipes on the outside unit that are on the outside of the unit (the unit for the second floor) Let the unit run for 5 minuites. Now check that the first floor unit pipes are the same tempereture. They are about 110 degrees or so, depending on the outside temperatur , be carefull not to burn yourself. If the lower unit is colder , the two most prominent problems would be #1 the compressor is not running #2 Low on freon.

Hope that helps

It's a defrost board issue. The timer on the board or something similar is hanging up. Unfortunately the solution is to replace the board. By lowering the temp. on the T-stat you are resetting the timer on the board. As you see that only works until the next cycle.

Central air requires a 2 pole 30 amp breaker or fuse. You may be able to get by without it but 200 amp service is recommended.

Unless this is some weird act of G-d, like sap from a nearby tree or something I will stick to furnace facts. LOL. Anyway, this sounds like an incomplete combustion situation. Let me explain. During the combustion process many elements are necessary to facilitate "complete combustion". If the correct combination is not met, the result will be a blackish residue. If you combine this residue with the condensation that normally occurs in the flu system, it could turn muddy or sludgy. This is can be a dangerous situation due to the amount of carbon monoxide (poison gas) nessessary to create this residue (similar to the film in the tailpipe of your car).

I would suggest calling another reputable company that offers true "combustion analysis" reports. The test takes around 30 minutes and they should be able to confirm my diagnosis. This test should cost anywhere between 100 and 200.00(US). Many times a simple adjustment to the gas valve or burner assembly will due the trick. Best of luck!

The run capacitor is probably bad. The run capacitor is usually a two part component. One part serves the fan and one part serves the compressor. Sometimes when they fail the fan will even run backwards instead of just stalling. Replace it.

If your furnace is easily accessed in the basement or a closet etc. then likely the filters are located either in the bloer compaertment (the small panel on the furnace) or in the ductwork attached to the furnace. There should be a removable cover. The size varies dedending on the size of your system. When you remove the old one it should be printed on it or you can measure it.
If your furnace is in the attic or a crawl space then you probably have filter grill(s) in your return air. Usually centrally located in the home.
Filters should be changed as needed depending on how you use your system but usually every 30-90 days.

I assume this is a heat pump. The outside unit may be icing up. It should have a defrost cycle with electronic control that sometimes fails or sensor associated with the electronic determination of when to defrost may have failed or may not be sensing because its out of position. You can check for a defrost problem. If frost is blocking the outside unit air will not pass through it after the frost builds up and you may be able to see the white frost as well. If all this is true you need to get a service manual and use its procedures to find out why the unit is not defrosting.

Did the fuse blow out? If so then the heating element is shorted out. This happens frequently when they fail. If the fuse is blown check the condition of or change out the heating element.

what you need to do is isolate the loads that are on the transformer and put a amp meter on the transformer and read the amps while you put the loads on one at a time. the one that spikes is the one thats bad. You can put a inline fuse in to protect the transformer. A 3 AMP fusw qould be good for a 75 va transformer if its a 50 va you would need a 2 ampo fuse.

I can help , If your positive there is 5psi + of gas going to the unit and you have tied the red low voltage wire with the white low voltage wire or R term. to W term. on the board or low volt. term board together and there is still no gas the problem is a bad gas valve , they are notorious for failing. Hope this helps you out , let me know if you have any more questions or problems. good luck Phil

The gas valve is not sensing flame, and the unit shuts down on safety.

Chances are the flame sensor is bad, its a common problem.

If its a thermocouple you can buy one for 10 bucks, If its a newer style they can usually be had for less than 30.

They are easy to replace ad they are usually installed with two screws and one to two wires.

They sit directly in the flame pattern in front of the burners.

A service call should only cost you 250 or less for the repair, but you can do it yourself for less than 50 (including gas to drive to the HVAC supply house that sells your brand unit.)

You will need the model and serial #s when locating the parts.

look inside of the air handler by the blower or around it if it is a attic installation. that is where it should be. Thank You for use=ing Fixya

not only the jets but you need to change the spring in the gas valve and cut the pressure WAY back to prolly 3.5"wc