20 Most Recent Weather King 12AJA4801AH Air Conditioner - Page 3 Questions & Answers

You must have installed a new motor. There are usually two leads located at the bottom of the motor plugged into another two leads.
Reverse the connection and you should have proper rotation

the tons is the power of the unit, so sure. if you were happy with the power of your old unit, get the same. if you felt it was never strong enough to cool your house, get the next size up. newer units have the same power, but use less energy.

you might check the contactor it should have 240 vac. this is what starts your compressor and your condensor fan motor. You have a problem with the outside unit. It is electrical in nature the contactor is a big black rectangle box. It should show it on the schematic on the unit.

Could be a number of things from dirty filter to bad expansion device to system leak.

Without hearing the "noise" it is difficult to diagnose via internet; however, I can tell you that the 20 degF temperature difference is a good sign.

If the noise is at the outdoor unit, try to determine if it is the casing or something else. Sometimes the casing can rattle and/or vibrate that can cause a sound. Sounds can also come from refrigerant lines rubbing against the casing. Other noise sources at the outdoor unit are the fan motor, fan blade assembly, and compressor. You can remove one of the fan motor wires from the contactor, tape off the end, and start up the unit for a few seconds to see if the noise is still present. Then you can replace the wire and remove the compressor wires from the contactor and repeat the test. This will help you determine where the sound is coming from.
If the sound is coming from your indoor unitl, the most common sources are loose tape, Blower wheel, blower motor, or blower housing. Also look for loose panels.

Without being onsite with toolbox in hand and being able to actually hear the sound, I hope you find this information to be helpful to you moving forward. :-)

Hi,
Here is a tip about trouble shooting your air conditioner...

Air Conditioner Trouble -Review the Possibilities
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3571569-air_conditioner_trouble_review_the_possi

heatman101

There should be something printed on the circuit board close to the LED's or it might be a label inside of the cover or maybe in the owners manual.

if contactor does not pull in could be low voltage problem

whats the model and serial # s

Hi, this is not a real common problem but sounds to me as though the 24volt coil is faulty on this unit. On a call for heat this system should go through its sequence of operation through all safetys and so on before the gas valve opens. If it is going through the start up cycle and it is time for the main gas valve to open when this occurs, your gas valve is faulty.It is internally shorted and should be replaced. This is all it could be as this is happening when 24volts is supplied to it, this will happen. If you are inclined to replace it your self, it is a simple task but requires the new gas valve to be set up with a gas test pressure kit. I would advise you to have a qualified serviceman to do this. The inlet gas pressure must be set at no more then 1/2 p.s.i and the manifold at 3.4" of w.c.It is very inportant that this is checked as for safety to you and you're family. What you may try is calling out you're local gas company to check your in coming gas pressure as I have seen on a unit in the past that with in 3 hours of installing a new gas valve, we were called back 3 times and found all new valves to have failed!! Come to find out that the main gas pressure regulator was intermittent at the meter and the pressure was at 35 p.s.i. Not to alarm you as I have only seen this 1 time in 33 years as a service tech and now a/c & heating contractor. But to solve this problem, the valve must be replaced as it is shorted internally.I would shut the gas valve off at the flex line for your safety until you can call out your gas company as it is free of charge. Just tell them you're heater is acting up and you think you might be smelling a small amount of gas. This will get them rolling quite fast.Please keep me posted on this and don't be alarmed but play it safe.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Sounds like there is a problem with your unit. The cooling tower doesn't have anything to do with the compressor other that the delivery of water to your heat pump. The compressor is probably shutting off on a low pressure because the water is cooler than in summer. I think the heat pump you have is low on charge or has a defunct TXV.

If you are able to replace the relay yourself, I would go to the internet first, Try this link. If you don't feel that you can replace the part, call a pro.


Lee

Yes. First go into the attic and look thru the the inspection hole in your furnace. It is a small hole with a glass cover you can look thru. Therer will be blinking light inside. The numrer of blinks tell you that what the problem is. Example three blinks means air switch open. Your problem could be ignitor,air switch or pikot. Get back to me asap and I will walk you thru this or call me. Rus

yes,can

Lets look at the whole problem. Did you have a new unit inside. Is the charge correct for unit. 1 lb of refrigerant makes difference. Four tons should be big enough if you have proper insulation. I have three tons in a 2100 square foot house. Its plenty big enough. You may have to small a return air. To small a return can cut a four ton unit to 2.5 ton unit very easily. 1.5 square foot pf free grille area per ton. Rusty

If new motor is 4 wire verses 3 wire use seperate capacitor between brown wires and don't use terminal on 3 pole cap. If this motor has a white strip on one brown wire you can wire it the old way using only 1 brown wire and tape off the other. Can't remeber this morning which brow wire to use . I need to leave. Goole replacemotor with 2 brown wires for more info or call where you bought it. Sorry got to run.

You are being ripped off. The ambient (outdoor) temperature at night is low and therefore proper condensing does not take place causing the refrigerant to pool in the condenser and starving the evaporator. This causes a lower temperature in the evaporator resulting in "freeze up" which is often mistaken for a loss of refrigerant.
The proper thing to be done is to block off the condenser air causing the high side pressure to rise until the eqivillant of 110*F condensing temperature.
You can also install a low ambient kit which will cycle the compressor off when the temperatures fall

t-stat r and rc togather to furnace r
t-stat w to furnace w
t-stat G to furnace G
t-stat y to furnace y
on the furnace y their should be one cable with 2 small wires 1 goes to y the other goes to the neutral of the transformer terminal C turn the power off so ya don't short the transformer if its not all ready bad. Good Luck Tom

Turn off the power to your condensing unit.
Open the service control panel.
Look at the contactor and take one of the low voltage wires off of it.
If the contactor stays closed, replace the contactor. Even if you clean the contacts it will stick again.
If the contactor opens replace the wire and check the thermostat to see if it is operating correctly.

If your compressor reads amperage and the pressures are equal you have a bad compressor.