You connect your blue hose to the low side (fat cool copper) The smaller lines is high side (hot side). Your yellow hose will connect to the jug.You want 70 PSI on the low side (no more 68.5psi is ideal) Your coils needs to be reasonably clean. If the compressor seems a bit loud you could clamp on an ammeter and check the amp draw. In fact you could charge the unit using an ammeter. Check the plate for total amp draw and reach for it. More sophisticated methods for checking sub-cooling and superheat are explained HERE A cool from Professor Zarkalicousness:
I'm going to assume that you know that heat pumps do not put out very warm air just lots of it. If you know the difference then I would say that your auxillary heat system has a problem. You could have electric or gas. You did not mention this piece of information. Give me more detail about the problem and I may be able to help you.
Hi, It is a dye that is inserted through the suction line. The unit is allowed to run for a short time and then the system is scanned with a ultraviolet light that shows where the leak is. It will show as a bright yellow in color. Check around areas that are the weakest link in a system, joints, fittings, coils and so on. They are called a dye or leak detector dye kit. There is nothing that can be inserted into a system to repair a leak just to locate it for repairs only. Shastalaker7
Hi you takling about geo thermial unless you know about this its hard to tell you what you want to know ,you needto have holes sunk in the ground for collecting the heat that is pumped to the house . they is to omuch to say , the best thing to do is find a company that does this work, its costley but you do get your money back very quick , it is the way to go have done some work on this type of system they work well if done right ....best of luck with your system
Most Cities in the United States use the International
Mechanical Code, National Fuel Gas Code, Electrical
Code and a few other codes.
In new construction and upgrades, equipment that is replaced shall follow the manufactuers installation
instructions or the International Mechanical Code.
Where one is more restrictive than the other, that
shall be the procedure in which you follow.
If equipment is being re3pqaired or maintained it shall
follow under the code for which time the un it or house was built.
If you move a house into another location, then Im
pretty sure you will have to upgrade to the Code
that is up to date at that City
Who ever recommended that you re-terminate all the high voltage is correct. If everything else checks out ok on the unit then that would be the next step. One problem I have been seeing more recently is wrong gauge wire and the cold has been tripping units, and the other is that the unit is not on a dedicated line. Yours seems to be on a dedicated breaker so I would guess that the other you can look at is to make sure you are running the right gauge wire to the breaker and unit. But I would suggest that you also re-terminate your high voltage connections.
have any actually flushed the drain line to be sure they are for sure clear and open , and is the trap for the drain installed as per mfg reccomendations , sound as if some of the condinsation is remaing in the drain pan of the unit
my first inclination is that the thermostat is bad. The kind that tell you when a system is on or off are not reliable in my opinion. If it is ok then there are many reasons why the furnace would not come on. All of the safety switches have to close, signal is sent to the gas valve, the inducer fan should have come on first, gas valve wont open valve unless the ignition system is working.(standing pilot, spark ignition, or hot surface ingnitor). They each have there own checks for proper function. Im sorry i cant be more specific, but the information provided doesnt give me anything else to draw conclusions from. Good luck
The capillary lines will normally freeze during startup and should defrost after a short time. However, if they are remaining frosted, this is a sign of a low refrigerant level.
If it is new and won't cool with all settings proper, Retyrn it. It may be short on the refrigerant and that requires tech nical servicing. Good Luck -Ned-
First check your filters to make sure they are clean and you have proper airflow.
If they are clean, then you either have low refridgerant or dirty coils.
The outside coils can easily be cleaned by disconnecting power to the unit, then using a water hose to spray off the dirt, grass, etc.
The inside coild can be very difficult to get to on some units and require a special evaporator coil cleaner. As for adding refridgerant, the Law requires one to be certified for purchasing or working with refridgerant so you may need to call a service tech for that. Expect a bill from $100 to $225 for a typical system recharge depending on how low it is and which company you call.
If the sight glass is foamy, stop what your doing, the system is contaminated with moisture. Chances are the compressor is gonna be toast. First reclaim the refrigerant, second replace the filter drier. third triple evacuate the unit with a vacuum pump, until the pressure gets down to below 1000 microns.(400 is ideal, but I doubt this system will ever see that without replacing the compressor). Fourth, if these tasks are beyond your abilities, call a service company, or have the unit replaced. The reason the compressor shuts off after two minutes is because theinternal overload protector has tripped, this means the compressor is drawing too many amps, since you have replaced the capacitor I cansafely assume, either the internal components of the compressor have been damage by the acid created by the presence of moisture in the system, or the filter/drier, or strainer (internal) have been plugged with debris. Either way it will take several hours of work to save it, or a few hours to replace it. Sorry to have to give ya the bad news.......good luck!
The water is condensate, which is produced by the air conditioner (this normal), The hole you are refering to shoule be connected to a drain, and should have a "p" trap installed to allow proper drainage and prevent sewer smells from backing up into the air handler. The pan underneath it should be a secondary catch incase there is a problem with the primary drain (the hole from the unit). the secondary catch should also be equipped with either a drain to allow the water to escape, or a moisture sensor to shut-down the air conditioner, and alert the homeowner to the problem, by way of the house getting warmer. The fact that you describe it as simply a hole draining into the secondary pan tells me that this unit is not installed properly. I suggest calling the installing contractor to remedy the situation, before costly ceiling repairs are required.
The drain line coming from the internal drain pan to the pump is clogged, causing overflow of the internal pan. That means the water never reaches the pump, and is simply overflowing into the bottom of the unit/duct.
The drain line and pan need to be cleaned and cleared.
