20 Most Recent Whirlpool GHW9400 Duet Washer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

its best if you call whirlpool to set up service call. tampering with your washer could void the warranty

Go to: RepairClinic.com

There you can troubleshoot
your appliance.

You'll need make & model #.

This is a simple repair. All that should be required is to remove the back panel to access the counterweight. I've performed this repair on several occasions. Loosen the bolts that sandwich the weight between the mounting plates and the whole weight should slide out of its mounted position on the back of the tub. Insert the new weight by sliding it in place and then re-installing the mounting plates and bolts. Tighten until snug. Do NOT overtighten as you may crack the weight. I hope this helps you.

Removing the Washer Top
Three screws secure the washer top at the back of the washer. Remove the three screws and lift the top from the washer.

Removing the Console from the Cabinet
Disconnect the Touch Pad/LED Assembly ribbon connector from the left side of the Central Control Unit and release it from the wiring harness brackets on the right side of the washer top

Remove the detergent dispenser drawer by pressing down on the release tab at the back of the drawer and pulling it completely out of the washer.

Once the drawer is removed, remove the screw in the recessed hole next to the drawer opening. Release the tab securing the right side of the console to the washer

Open the washer door and place a flat-bladed screwdriver into the slot in the bottom center of the console. Push the console up to release center console tab. Be sure the ribbon cable clears the cabinet frame.

Removing the Touch Pad/LED Assembly from the Console
The Touch Pad/LED Assembly is removed as a single unit and contains the Push Buttons, LEDs, cable, etc. The buttons can be replaced separately

There are no fasteners that I know of. I've worked on this model numerous times and have never seen any. There should be screws holding the front panel in place. Remove the lower panel under the door by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Placing a block of wood under the bottom of the frame to elevate the front feet of the washer off the floor will make it easier to access the screws. The washer is heavy so it may take two people to do this. DO NOT push on the door or the control panel. Use the facing of the washer front panel for leverage. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. There should be a mounting screws for the front panel on each side of the washer. Make sure the screws are present and that they are tight. You may just have a screw loose (no pun intended). I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you need further assistance.

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=906440&PPStack=1

I see your problem, try this link for part info, look around for a local store or print this and write down model and serial to call and tell em you need the rear counterweight for this model.

First lets get your door unlocked so you can get the clothes out.
Remove the lower front panel from the washer. Reach up to the bottom of the latch and you will feel a tab hanging from the latch. Pull down on it and the door will unlock.

When you have the panel off you should see a tech sheet, probably on the right as you are looking at the machine. This tells you what to check for each fault code.
The F 11 code is for a communication failure between the main control board and the motor control board under the machine.
The DL is for a door latch problem as you already know.
If you are now getting both codes, you either have two seperate problems (unlikely), or the main control is the problem.
The only thing that the 2 codes have in common is the main control at the top rear of the machine. Loose wiring connections at the board and faulty solder joints in the boards are the most common problems we run into with electronic controls.
Most likely the door latch was not the problem the first time you got this code. The latches are usually pretty reliable unless the switch actuator gets broken, which won't give a code, it just won't start.
Check your owners manual for the warranty information. These machines used to have a 2 yr warranty on the control boards. Warranty policies changed industry wide in fall of '06 so they may only be covered for a year on yours.
Post back if you have any questions or need help.
Thanks/Mike

I had this same problem as everyone (especially with a front load washer) has. After research... I have found a product that I now tell everyone about. I found it on the web called 'smellywasher.com'. A nontoxic product by Laundry Specialist sounded good. I was willing to do anything to cleanup the smell and mildew from my machine. So I gave this a try and it REALLY WORKS!. Just as they claimed, my washer now smells clean and with no real effort from me. Now I just do a periodic cleaning and I will never have to worry about this again. (and bleach will harm the gaskets). I also use vinegar in the fabric softner dispenser instead... this insures my clothes are rinsed well and works to soften my laundry. Hope this helps and pass the info on..... THIS REALLY WORKS....which you cannot always say about products.

the f 02 means you have a long drain issue press pause/cancel twice to clear the display check drain hose make sure it isnt plugged or kinked check electrical connections at the pump make sure the pump is running check drain filter for foreign objects if the above does not correct the problem replace the pump

there is no reversing the door on the washer. the door on the dryer can be reversed and with the execption of a few of the earlier models no kit is required(even then was just a trim kit). is switching theposition of the 2 appliances an option?? as far as wsher vibrating through house heres a new product receiving great response http://www.keshakeaway.com/servlet/StoreFront

well id be leary myself and honestly not at the machine but the tech(s) that are looking at it. i would put back in for another call request a different company if possible.Theres probably 7-8 authorized Whirlpool service Companies in my area alone. acn demand that the tech call the Technical assistance line if unsure of problem.I cant see telling a cust "normal noise don't worry about". these units spin very quietly.On a side note they were installed correctly??? strange to get 2 with came problem..

That is what is supposed to happen. You turn it on to a program, the water comes in and it washes the clothes. I think we must be missing some information? Some wild guesses in this link https://www.google.com/search?q=Whirlpool+Duet+Washer.+The+hot+water+just+runs+into+my+washer+when+I+turn+it+on ..

According to the manufacturer, the error means the door could not lock. Check the door for obstructions when you close. To remove error, reboot the washer.

google reset of motor or see if schematic inside case

Moved to Whirlpool Washing Machines Category. I see you met our Computer Guru Larry :>D He hates his when his department gets cluttered with non-computer posts. Details on cleaning the filter in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=wfw9550wl00+clean+filter ..

as far as the standing water, try to reach the water pump to remove the button or other things that dropped out of you trouser pockets stopping it from emptying properly, as there is still water in the tub the machine wont move on till its empty eric

Only 1 yr old so I assume its a simple fault like partial blockage at pump. Remove filter bottom right of machine check and clean if needed . remember to use an old towel fist as this will contain around half pint of water assuming its drained 1stly , Always unplug machine from Electrics before any repairs, Good luck.

there's a flow meter in the washer that could cause this part number WPW10110225 if you go here you can see it https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Flowmeter/WPW10110225/1381535 also check the screens on the water valve,it's telling you the machine thinks it's not filling with water or it isn't filling,also this could be a bad pressure switch or the computer board but if you order parts from repair clinic you can return them and you have 365 days to do this,so first thing check the screens on the water valve,shut down the water and remove the fill hose from the washer and see if there's any junk in the screen,if so you can clean off the screen and see what happens or replace the water valve,if that looks ok the flow meter is probably gonna be it so this might be the part you want to change out,i can't remember how to test the flow meter,i carry one so if i see this error i pop it on and see what happens and out of the three times i've seen this it was the flow meter.hope this helps you can google how to check it the instructions on the tech sheet in your washer isn't that good but you can check it out.good luck with your washer

Check the harness from the ccu .If all in tacked replaced the ccu.

might be your lid lock are door lock switch is bad if you have your manual tell how to put washer in program mode then it should give you a errcode show you what wrong with your washer ok