20 Most Recent Whirlpool LSR7333 Top Load Washer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

If the washer is running, but the agitator is slipping, then you may have worn agitator dogs, or a loose agitator bolt. The following link explains what the dogs are, and how to access to acces the bolt and replace them:


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608577-replacing_agitator_dogs


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites I listed also include helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts you may need. If you do not wish to order parts on line, use the part numbers from the Sears website and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. Most of these parts are commonly sold as part of their in-store inventory.

Read through the information provided. If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this is helpful to you.

ok kenna ,,open lid and grasp the fabric dispencer from the top and pull straight up,,it well come off,,,next run it under hot water for a few minutes,,now get some bleach and fill dispencer and let soak over night than flush again with hot water,,that should free it..to get your manual go to servicematters.com..im onthejob

Hi,
Check the inlet valve Filter (No 17).Check this .If this is clean then, check the inlet valve.Inlet valve should open according to the signal given control board.It will cost you around 30$.Replace it and check it.
thank you

It appears your load balance sensor has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

How do I determine the capacity of my washer?

This is called your water fill diaphram. Or your water level select. Replace it and you have fixed the problem. You might want to check the hose for holes or to see if the hose popped off the switch. The same thing happened to my cousin. Good luck!

First you should remove the hoses and clean the screens in the ends of the hose, some hoses have screens in both ends. While the hoses are removed look inside the water inlet valve there should be a screen in there also remove and clean the screen out. Some screens will not be removable so you will need to clean in place or remove the water inlet valve. If all is clear you will need to check the solenoids on the water inlet valve for power.If the solenoid has power when put in a fill cycle and no water eneters your washer you will need to replace the water inlet valve. Most water inlet valves must be replaced as a unit, so if one solenoid fails you replace the hole valve assembly. These are inexpensive and easy to replace. There is a video at http://appliancehelponline.com/topwaterinletvideo.html that will walk you thru the testing procedure. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. If you need help disassembling there are also videos of disassembling most styles. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models will be available. All parts come with installation instructions.

This problem is commonly attributed to a water inlet valve (also known as a "mixing valve") that is going bad. The valve is what the inlet hoses connect to on the back of the washer. If the sediment screens appear okay, chances are the valve may be clogged or the solenoids are failing.

If you live in an area that has hard water, or if you use well water, the inlet valve and/or fill hose sediment screens can become clogged with sediment, calcified deposits and rust resulting in a restriction of water flow. You can try cleaning the sediment screens and the water inlet valve in a 50/50 solution of distilled vinegar and hot water to see if you can dissolve any sediment or deposits. Removing the valve from the washer and allowing it to soak in the solution for about 30 minutes, then flushing it with clean water can sometimes return an inlet valve to normal operation. If cleaning the valve does not work, however, you will need to replace it. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575881-replacing_water_inlet_valve_on_whirlpool


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. The first three sites on the list have helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you with locating and properly identifing any parts you may need. If the model number you listed this question under is correct, the Water Inlet Valve number is 285805 and is listed as item 18 under the "Controls and Rear Panel" parts listing. The average price is less than $20.

If you have any questions, or if your model number is different, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

If this is a Whirlpool model top loader, the model number will be located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid.

There is no screen or strainer basket in the drain pumps on these washers. The pump is strictly mechanical and has only one moving part (the impeller) and two hoses attached. The following link explains how you may access the pump and remove (if necessary) to inspect:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3794382-replacing_water_pump_whirlpool_top

Now, before you dismantle the washer to look for your lost diamond, did you run the washer after the diamond was dropped? If so, it may have already been run through the washer and out the drain line. Or, it could be lodged in the drain line somewhere. You can use a wet/dry shop vac to pull a vacuum on the line and check the contents of the vacuum for your lost stone. If you do not own a shop vac, you will need to move the washer to a location where you can place the drain line on the floor to allow simple gravity to allow the water to run out.

On some of these top loader models there is a screen in the wash tub under the spin basket. You can tell by removing the inlet hose to the drain pump and feeling up inside the wash tub. If there is a mesh screen, you will need to remove the agitator and spin basket to access the inside of the wash tub to inspect. The process is not as difficult as it sounds. Remove the exterior washer case as outlined in the link I provided previously. Then, follow these steps:

Start by removing the agitator:

1. Remove the agitator center cap by either pulling straight up or gently placing a flat blade screwdriver into a slot located in the cap.

2. If the agitator is equipped with an inner cap with a handle, remove this as well by pulling straight up.

3. Remove the center bolt of the agitator. You will have either a 7/16” hex bolt or a recessed square plastic nut. If you have the square recessed type, use a 3/8” to ½” ratchet adapter to remove.

4. Remove the agitator by grasping the bottom flange and carefully pulling straight up. Try to keep all the parts assembled while doing this, so do not pull too hard. This will make this repair much easier.

Then remove the tub balance ring (this is the plastic ring at the top of the wash tub:

1. With a large flat blade screwdriver, locate the tabs holding the ring in place and gently pry each one up to release the ring.

2. Work your way around the perimeter of the tub, prying gently.

3. Once the tabs are all released, make there are no dispenser hoses attached (on some models) and lift the ring out of the way.

Remove the spin basket (this is the inner wash basket):

1. There should be a a center bolt (called a "spanner nut"). The nut usually requires a spanner wrench to loosen, but you may get by with a large pipe wrench or channel locks.

2. Once the spanner nut is removed, the spin basket should lift out of the wash tub.

Under the spin basket there should be a small opening above the drain pump that has a mesh screen over it (on some models). If you lucky, your diamond may be trapped there.

I would really need a complete MODEL NUMBER to be sure how your washer is configured. Please post back if you have questions. I hope this helps you.

If your TOP LOADING Whirlpool manufactured washer is leaking, the following link explains how to remove the exterior washer case in order to accurately inspect the washer interior components for the source of your leak:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576648-washer_leak__top_loader


If the leak is more like a constant drip, a common source of leaks with Whirlpool manufactured top loaders is a leaking drain pump. These pumps are not serviceable and if damaged, must be replaced. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3794382-replacing_water_pump_whirlpool_top


Don't forget to check all drain hose connections under the washer and the center tub seal.

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartrsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

sounds like timer is loosing contacts and time to replace.

The most likely place on these to find a leak is the pump



This training MANUAL will hep


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hello there:
Pleasse follow these steps
If your washer doesn't agitate, check these: listed in blue by clicking on them Lid switch Motor coupler Clutch Drive motor Drive pulleys Transmission Agitator Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it. Clutch it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. Drive motor

First you should remove the hoses and clean the screens in the ends of the hose, some hoses have screens in both ends. While the hoses are removed look inside the water inlet valve there should be a screen in there also remove and clean the screen out. Some screens will not be removable so you will need to clean in place or remove the water inlet valve. If all is clear you will need to check the solenoids on the water inlet valve for power.If the solenoid has power when put in a fill cycle and no water eneters your washer you will need to replace the water inlet valve. If the buzz is coming from the solenoid replace the water inlet valve. Most water inlet valves must be replaced as a unit, so if one solenoid fails you replace the hole valve assembly. These are inexpensive and easy to replace. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html that will walk you thru the testing procedure. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. If you need help disassembling there are also videos of disassembling most styles. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models will be available. All parts come with installation instructions.

If this is a Whirlpool manufactured TOP LOADER, a no spin problem can have several causes. Most commonly, this is caused by either a lid switch malfunction or a broken motor coupling. The following link explains how you can diagnose the problem and repair:


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3965207-whirlpool_top_loader_no_spin_problem


Read through the link provided and let me know if you have any questions. I have included parts sources and instructions on how to replace each part as well.

If this just a simple matter of the agitator not working, but everything else does, you may just have a worn agitator cam assembly, worn agitator dogs, loose agitator bolt, or all of the above. The following link explains what agitator dogs are and how to access them:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608577-replacing_agitator_dogs

Whirlpool manufactured washers use a split agitator design. The top half is known as the "auger, while the lower half is the agitator. Between the two pieces is a cam assembly, with small teflon teeth known as "dogs". There's also an agitator bolt that holds the entire assembly to the center post.

If the auger (top half of the agitator) is slipping, I would suspect the dogs or cam assembly need to be replaced. The part number for the dogs is included in the link I provided. For a little more you can purchase the entire cam assembly which includes the dogs, the cam, the cam seal and thrust bearing.

If the entire agitator appears loose or slipping, check the agitator bolt to ensure it is tight. DO NOT overtighten as this can restrict movement of the agitator or damage it. Tighten until snug.

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I listed also include helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts you need. If you do not wish to order parts on line, use the part numbers from the Sears website and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. All these parts are commonly sold as part of their in-store inventory.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.