20 Most Recent Whirlpool WFW8300SW - Page 7 Questions & Answers

hate my duet sport also! You cant presoak in this machine, very little water to wash with, very noisy, and everything stinks when it comes out of washer. Mine also smelled like mold but i figured out if you pull out the little tray that holds the detergent it is filled with stinky black mold. would never buy again

Hello Sir,
This error code, " F4 " comes only when the waste outlet is totally clogged with waste and blocked. Try to dismantle the machine and locate the Waste outlet pipe and thoroughly clean it. This will reset the error which is caused.

Thank you Sir, 
Have a nice day.

Drain the machine off by dropping the drain hose into a bucket

Take off the back panel check where the big hose leaves the drum to go to the pump

Lay the machine forward so that the gravity will send any objects towards that area

Take off the hose and retrieve the objects, possible bra wire which may require that you turn the large pulley on the back of the machine to bring it into view

"F21" is a Long Drain error code. This is an indication that you have an obstruction somewhere in the drainage system. In most cases, this means you probably have a clog in the drain pump. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r1484065-f21_error_code_whirlpool_duet_kenmore

You may have something getting caught in the pump impeller and slowing it down. Included is a follow-on link that explains how to check the drain pump to clean. You may also have to remove the inlet hose that runs from the bottom of the wash tub to the inlet side of the drain pump. Debris can commonly clog in this area as well causing the drain cycle to fail.

NOTE: If these preliminary measures do not correct your problem, you may have to replace the drain pump. It does not take much to damage the pump impeller or motor. Since the error code is generated if the drain cycle exceeds 8 minutes, if the pump is damaged and can't pump at the required volume, the error code will continue to appear until the pump is replaced.

NOTE: The "SUDS" error can commonly occur with the F21 error code as this is can be generated when air is sensed in the drainage system.
If the door won't open it could be jammed due to the program being interrupted.

If you have questions about this repair, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sounds like the main control board instead of the interface. Remove top and locate CCU. Shold be on R side or rear at the top. Unplug all connections and replug. See if that helps. If it helps and it happens again, replace the board. FYI. Whirlpool electronics are horrible for loose connection problems.

remember this
they have 3 attempts to fix it
then you can file suit as a lemon

Follow this link and go to your code:)

http://www.assuredparts.com/WhirlpoolDuetWasherFaultCodes.html

I just saw this code on my washer for the first time tonight, which made made me research the error.
I don't know if this will fix it, but this is one thing I've done several times that has fixed the washer problem every time. If my dispenser ever gets opened in the middle of a cycle or while it is dispensing, the washer will begin making a grinding noise. (This noise may be the grinding noise that I see so many other people are mentioning.) I found that I can simply pull out the dispenser; it comes all of the way out without any tools. I then put my hand all the way back, to the left I think and manually flip some little switch in there. I think maybe the washer sometimes gets confused if the dispensing is interrupted. I just un-confuse it, put the dispenser back in, and it works just fine from that point on. I do have to restart the load, however.
I hope this helps.

A washer that leaks often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Hi,
F27 is an Overflow Condition error. If the Overflow contact on the pressure switch is closed for more than 60 seconds an Overflow condition will occur. In an Overflow condition, the Door may remain locked, and the Drain Pump may run constantly, even if PAUSE/CANCEL is pressed twice and the Display is cleared. Unplug the unit to service. This is verbatim from the tech sheet. You will need to check to following:

1. First, UNPLUG the washer for at LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches with the unit. If the error code reappears, proceed to step 2.
2. Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
3. Check Wire Harness connectors to the Drain Pump, Pressure Switch, and Central Control Unit (CCU).
4. Check/Clean Drain Pump Filter of foreign objects.
5. Check for Drain Pump Failure.
6. Check the Inlet Valve for proper shut off
7. Check the Pressure switch for proper operation.

Thank You for contacting Fixya.com

Call 888-474-8362. Provide them with a model number and the parts you need and they can ship it out that same day if in stock. :)

The agitator bolt may be loose, or the dogs may need replaced. The following link explains how to access and repair:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r823955-replacing_agitator_dogs

You can view what agitator dogs look like at appliancepartspros.com. Just type in your model number and look for item 18 under the Agitator, Basket and Tub heading. A replacement kit only costs about $5. For a bit more, you can purchase the entire agitator repair kit for about $11 (item 22). The exploded view diagram can also assist you.

Your agitator has a cap that comes off the center post, followed by an air gap cap inside. The air gap cap just pulls out, exposing the agitator bolt. The upper portion of the agitator (called the "auger") will lift off once the bolt is removed.

NOTE: Make sure when you reassemble the agitator that you remember to reinsert the air gap cap and that the rubber o-ring gasket is intact. Without it, water will eventually work into the gearcase (transmission). Also make sure you do not overtighten the agitator bolt. Doing so may damage the agitator or restrict its movement. Tighten until snug.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

This problem is commonly attributed to a loose or broken lid switch.

If your washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle or drain, the problem is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.

If you have any questions about this repair, or if you need additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Yes, if you install the software suite and connect with usb, there is an internet tab.
www.motorola.com to download.
But you will find it will cost a lot to use a mobile for the web, I used it for a while, slow and expensive. Would recomend a mobile dongle, much faster and much cheaper.

check the motor bushes.

if it smells like something dead you may have a dead mouse somewhere inside cabinet

I go to our electric breaker box (in the basement), locate the breaker that provides electric to my washer, flip it off and then back on. This should reset the washer. I received the F01 code twice in four years, and each time this has worked for me. Unplugging the washer may reset it but I haven't tried that because I would have to move my washer. Good luck!

error code f-21 is a simple fix on the front of your washer there is a lower panel that can be removed
with three screws. after removing panel you will see a white plastic piece/plug that you can unscrew
(be prepared for water spillage) remove that plug this is called the coin trap clean out this trap and put back together. this should solve your problem

It doesn't agitate If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:

Lid switch
Motor coupler
Belts
Clutch
Drive motor
Drive pulleys
Transmission
Agitator
Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. 

Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.

Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. 

Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems:

• Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may not agitate properly or at all.



• The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem.

If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.

thanks and please do not forget to accept the solution