20 Most Recent Whirlpool CAM2752KQ Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

This sounds like an Ancient model......LoL ! The Wig-wag shifts between agitate and spin. They went bad often ! Is this a pre 1985 Model ? If so, the wig -wag is a possibility. If it agitates, the belt is still good.Hope this helps.

Most Whirlpool (Hotpoint) machines have "out of balance" sensors that detect very large movements of the drum suspension usually due to a very badly balanced washing load. This can occur for various reasons but putting large and/or heavy items in can trigger these sensors i,f as the machine starts to spin, the items dont get distributed evenly around the drum. This is more likley with large/heavy items. The machine will then restrict the spin speed for the remainder of the wash cycle, and once the machine is switched off, the next time the machine is used it returns the spin speed back to normal - but if it detects an out of balance situation, it will again restrict the spin speed. It sounds to me the machine is acting as designed. You could try positioning the items differently as you load them, and hope they dont end up "all over one side".

I can't tell you the countless amount of those I've had to repair and all within the first year while doing warranty work for whirlpool. My fix for it was to make sure the belt was on the pulley, push the pulley up into position, and put a small amount of lock-tight on the bolt the place the nutt on and ratchet it on as tightly as possible. Never had a recall with that method. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

First check and see if it is on heat not on a cool cycle on timer. If ok then check thermal fuse and thermastats then check the heater coil. Hope this helps.

There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




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The following advice is for replacing the "Agitator Dogs" on Kenmore and Whirlpool TOP LOADER style washing machines. This simple repair can save you a fortune in repair costs as the replacement parts are very inexpensive at a cost of less than $10. The replacement kit part number is 80040. You can order on line at various appliance parts websites, or use this part number and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer.

What are "Agitator Dogs"? These are small plastic pieces (usually 4) that are located under the agitator center cap that grip the agitator and turn it during the wash cycle. They can (and do) wear out dependent upon the use of the washer. If you are in the habit of doing large load sizes frequently, or wash large items such blankets or afghans, this can wear the teeth off and reduce the life of the agitator dogs.

SYMPTOMS REQURING REPLACEMENT: The agitator fails to turn during the wash cycle, or will not turn with a heavy load. The timer will run normally through all cycles, and you will be able to hear the gearcase (transmission) engage and run. The washer will also drain normally. The only indication that something is wrong will be the agitator slipping or not turning at all. The result will be clothes that do not wash properly and will sit on the bottom of the wash tub.

To replace the Agitator Dogs, follow these steps:


1.Remove the agitator center cap by either pulling straight up or gently placing a flat blade screwdriver into a slot located in the cap.
2.If the agitator is equipped with an inner cap with a handle, remove this as well by pulling straight up.
3.Remove the center bolt of the agitator. You will have either a 7/16" hex bolt or a recessed square plastic nut. If you have the square recessed type, use a 3/8" to ½" ratchet adapter to remove.
4.Remove the agitator by grasping the bottom flange and carefully pulling straight up. Try to keep all the parts assembled while doing this, so do not pull too hard. This will make this repair much easier.
5.Place your hand over the top of the agitator and separate the upper portion of the agitator from the lower portion and turn the top half over in your hand. The agitator dog assembly will come out in your hand.
6.With the agitator dog assembly in your hand, lay the rest of the agitator aside. Pay careful attention to how the dogs are installed. Remove the worn dogs and reinstall new ones. It's that simple.
7.With all the dogs replaced and the assembly still in your hand, place the upper part of the agitator over the top of it, upside down, ensuring the inner assembly tabs align correctly.
8.Now keep your hand over the agitator top to hold all the pieces together and turn the entire assembly over (upright position).
9.Carefully align and reinsert the upper portion of the agitator to the lower portion. Again, making sure the two pieces align correctly.
10.Place the entire agitator assembly back on the gearcase shaft and reinstall center nut. NOTE: DO NOT over tighten the nut, or the agitator will not spin correctly. Just make the nut snug. Reinstall center cap and inner cap (if equipped).

These instructions should give you the basics on how to perform this repair. Since there are various agitator types in use by Whirlpool and Kenmore, assembly can vary.

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Now if the machine is still full of water I need you to bail out some of the water by hand with a pot or bucket.Bail out just enough so you can look under the machine to the front right.You should see a pump with a red or black fan attached to it.If you see this pump try turning the fan clockwise and anticlockwise a few times to loosen it just in case it is jammed.Then put it back on its feet and select a spin cycle and push start.Hopefully it starts to drain.Please reply to tell me how you got on or if you have the pump with no fan attached.

Hi,
If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4617986-washing_machine_not_pump_or_spin

If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing Machine not draining and or not spinning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4784376-front_load_washing_machine_not_draining

heatman101

The lid switch, get something to hold it down to make machine work. Turn machine on and push down on lid.

Sounds like the pump quit working and needs replaced

If you over tighten the belt it will not spin.

you need to replace the motor to transmission coupling located underneath the unit. This plastic coupling can be bought from any appliance parts store

Plug off the mains. The safety switch that the lid engages when you close the lid is bad, it won't spin but will wash fine. Next your pump could have a clog which you should clear, third your external drain could be clogged.
Try these sites for spares:
RepairClinic.com
espares.co.uk
AppliancePartsPros.com
mcminone.com

Hi, There are several causes for this problem. Check these.

• No spin at all: the lid switch is fried. You test it with your meter.                                  There will be a motor which spins the washing machine's drum.                                              If you don't hear the motor running, then its the lid switch which would have been broken and needs replacing. A bad lid switch wil interrupt the spin cycle.

• In the Whirlpool washers, a common problem is that the lid plunger stops making contact with the lid switch. Use a pen to manually press the lid switch actuator (with the lid up, duh). If the washer spins...well, you know the rest.

• Older (belt-drive) Whirlpool: the spin solenoid is burned out or has cut wires. Ohm out that solenoid (20-30 ohms) and test with a test cord. Make sure the wires are intact by giving them a little tug. If this is OK, you may need to adjust/replace the basket drive.

• Newer (direct-drive) Whirlpool:  worn out direct drive coupler.

• The drive belt has had it. Look for excessive glazing on the sides of the belt or cracks in the power side of the belt. On Maytags, replace the belt set if they look glazed or shiny on the sides even though the belts may look OK otherwise. Belts on other brands will be more obviously bad. Here's how to replace the belt on older Whirlpool/Kenmore belt-drive washers, and on old-style GE/Hotpoint washers.

• Timer is fried. On older timers, it's sometimes possible to run an external jumper to replace the bad internal contacts. Usually, however, the entire timer must be replaced. The only way to confirm is to use your meter and wiring diagram.

These are the causes that have to be inspected. You can also visit this site www.whirlpool.com/custserv/index.jsp

Hope my info solves your problem, Thanx for using fixya, Good luck.