20 Most Recent Whirlpool TEDX640PQ Dryer Questions & Answers

Hi chuckpal51...
Your missing the pulley from that metal piece you have, it is called the idler pulley bracket.
I will send you to a website to show you what to do and how to replace a belt.
Free answer...Please rate me
http://www.appliancehelponline.com/dryerbeltvideo.html

first off that's an electric dryer with the filter on top so all your parts are in the back of the dryer,unplug the dryer,remove the vent line and the rear panel,on the left you'll see the duct that the lint filter slides into and to the right down low you'll see a white peice with two wires going to it,that's the thermal fuse,when you read any part out with a meter you have to pull at least one wire off to get the correct reading,pull one of the wires off and check it for continuity,if it's open change it out,if it's good move to the right heater box and read out the heater and the thermostat on the box,the dryer is only 4 months old so i don't think it could be filled with lint but the vent line has been there and i would check this out,usually if the thermal fuse or if one of the t-stats go it's usually from bad air movement and over heating.if that vent line is a long run go outside and first make sure nothing is blocking the vent,if there's a screen or cage on it remove it then go back inside and i use a leaf blower to blow out the vent line,just stick it into the vent line that you pulled off the back of the dryer and blow all the lint outside,i've seen birds nest blow out of the vents,hit it with short bursts at first so you don't pop the vent line if the block is real bad and once the air is pushing out you can hit it with 30 second blasts,also you can remove the duct that the lint filter slides into and check it,don't forget to remove the two screws on the top panel to get that out,if you don't clean out the vent line or wherever the block is the part that was bad will keep popping,the part is doing it's job telling you that the dryer is running to hot.good luck and if you need any more help let me know and if you don't have a meter buy one,it will be cheaper than changing out parts that still might be good.

hello zack... Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected. I know you indicated that the Heating element was checked but here is how you do it. Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Hi... heater element part # is 3403585

Hi,

Here you go...

Whirlpool Dryer Belt Diagrams and Replacement
heatman101

That's a plain jane timer on that dryer. The motor probably has a stripped gear in it. Seen it.
Nothing in the dryer would cause this timer to make noise UNLESS the RH terminal was arcing while in the heat mode of the timer setting. The result over time would be this:

I would say you is in need of a new timer. This timer has feature which advances the motor only when the heater is not on using this orange wire to feed back to the timer motor:

That is the middle wire on the high limit.
To replace the timer yank the knob straight off and remove the screws. Pay attention to how the wires connect. Pretty simple fix.

I have a manual and more service photos HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

If your handy with a multimeter then select the buzzer option on the meter, this measures continuity, if you touch the 2 meter leads together then they should make a buzzer sound. Then take the thermostat in question and put 1 lead on each of the pins on the stat and it should buzz. If it doesn't then the stat is faulty. hope this helps

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101
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Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Unplug it and remove the back. I suspect number 6 to be your problem. The thermal limit is not blown because the dryer is still running so I think it could be the high limit. Of course your heater could be bad also. They get brittle and break over time.
Number 5 is the thermal limit. since the dryer runs you can rule that out. Number one is gonna be the problem IF you have figured out you have a good heater If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Your heating element or thermal fuse are bad. These are reasonably easy fixes if you need a step by step just let me know.

Hi, If you have a gas dryer.
The most common problem with a gas and no heat is the ignitor going bad...

Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...

Gas Dryer not Working Gas Dryer Not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

If your dryer is electric..
There could be a number of different problems...
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...

Dryer Troubleshooting Electric Dryer won t Heat
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

heatman101

The reason for the 4-wire plug/socket system is that in the older 3-wire units, cabinet 'ground' was actually 'neutral' carrying current for the 115 volt parts of the dryer, while the two 'hots' were supplying 230 volt power for the heater and motor. This allowed a voltage difference between the dryer cabinet and true ground. How did you wire 3-wires (coming from the apartment electrical panel) into the 4-wire dryer socket? Dryer cabinet ground should go to true ground at the electrical panel, and dryer neutral should go to electrical panel neutral. Did Whirlpool violate the separation of 'neutral' and 'ground' when the machine was made (did the timer neutral connection go to cabinet ground instead of machine neutral or is the timer motor stuck)? Your dilemma would be answered by having the apartment owner hire a licensed electrician to upgrade the dryer service to 4-wire specifications. The ground to neutral connection you mentioned may make it work, but you will wind up with the 'hot' cabinet condition that the 4-wire setup was supposed to alleviate. Hope some of this helps!

This can happen for a couple of reasons.

The first is that the sensor bars in the dryer get a build up residue on them. They are located on the back wall or just under the door. They are about the size of a pencil. You can clean them with a cloth and alcohol this will help with sensing.

Second the dryer must be level, if it has moved off level a lot the clothes may not be coming in contact with the sensor often enough

Third mixed loads will not dry properly, for example if you have towels in the same load as light garments the dryer may shut off when the lighter articles are dry.

I hope this helps

i would check the door switch, part #3406104 and the drum belt part #8066065. hope this helps.

Hi,
My guess is, your heating element has gone out. Yes, you can fix it if you're so inclined to.
Here is a link to a set of manuals, including a parts list manual... this will help you in obtaining your part and illustrates how the unit is assembled.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search_results.jsp?searchTerm=TEDX640PQ0&siteCd=WHRCOM

I hope this helps you... Good luck!

There are about seven different possiblities and the prospective solution in each case appears to be replacement of a different part! I suppose if you have the proper testing equipment for assessing each of those parts, you might be favored with a relatively inexpensive fix. I would be embarassed to suggest you replace all in sequence until the dryer works. Thermal Fuse: The thermal fuse is a safety mechanism that prevents the dryer from overheating. If it blows, the dryer won't heat. Check if the thermal fuse is intact and replace it if necessary. Cycling Thermostat: The cycling thermostat regulates the temperature inside the dryer drum. If it's faulty, the dryer may not heat properly. Consider checking and replacing the cycling thermostat. Igniter: The igniter is responsible for lighting the gas burner. If it's defective, the dryer won't ignite. Inspect the igniter for any signs of damage or malfunction. Gas Valve Coils: Although you've already replaced them, double-check the gas valve coils. Sometimes, even new parts can fail. Ensure they are securely connected and functioning correctly. Ventilation: Poor ventilation can lead to longer drying times and affect ignition. Make sure the dryer vent is clean and not obstructed. A clogged vent can cause overheating and affect ignition. Door Switch: The door switch ensures the dryer doesn't operate when the door is open. If it's faulty, the dryer won't start or heat. Verify that the door switch is functioning properly. Timer and Controls: Check if the timer advances correctly during the drying cycle. Malfunctioning controls can impact ignition. Inspect the timer and control board for any issues. Whirlpool Dryer WGD4800XQ1 - OEM Parts & Repair Help - PartSelect.com

A "F4E4" (Low or No Line Voltage) code indicates there may be a problem with your home power supply, keeping the dryer's heater from turning on. The dryer will continue to run when this diagnostic code is present. Touch any pad to clear the code from the display and return to the estimated time remaining.

Push to start relay switch. NOTE: If the dryer will not start check the thermal fuse before ordering start switch. The switch is often not the cause of the dryer failing to start. pull the knob off the switch the answer should be visible