20 Most Recent Vornado Standard&Full Size Air Circulator CR1-0076-06 Fan Questions & Answers

Jump out the switch first that will show which is not working

Vornado window air circulator, model 280AE

Most fans like this use a fairly standard electric motor as it has to run from the mains supply. Take it to a good electric motor repairer/supplier and they should be able to find an after market motor to replace the one you have. Keep in mind how much the fan is worth to compare the cost of repair versus replacement.

The company says it never needs oiling and is sealed for life. You could try them direct, or Amazon sells bearings if you can get the size.https://www.google.com/search?q=replacement+bearings+for+a+vornado+293..

See page 2 of the Manual. Take them up on their claim and get a warranty repair or at least some help direct. https://www.vornado.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/AWRH.pdf If you can get into it, you can clean and oil the bearings. ...

Contact them direct and put in a warranty claim or ask for spares. https://www.vornado.com/contact-us https://www.google.com/search?q=Vornado+280LS+fan+speed+control+switch ..

There are a couple of videos that might help, but usually, it is just a matter of undoing every screw that you can find. The videos show the switch just levers out. It is held by plastic clips. To split the case, you just need a long Philips screwdriver. 4 screws hold it. https://www.google.com/search?q=Vornado+VH200+replace+switch

VH200 Whole Room Heater - Vornado

https://www.vornado.com > shop > heaters > vh200-wh... The VH200 whole room heater is an effective way to reduce energy costs. This whole room heater has a thermostatic temperature control knob.

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The fan motor has failed.

Copied this from someone else who fixed his fan. Tried it and it made a world of difference. Spins free and easy, no more noise."I have had the same model for almost ten years, and have had to lubricate it twice - both times when the fan stopped rotating. It's obvious that Vornado never intended the bearings to be serviced, but if you're patient, it can be done. You must remove the front louver section (press the three clips inward gently). Then firmly pull the fan toward the front, off the shaft. Then remove the four nuts on the front of the motor housing - you'll note that the bolts appear to be free-floating, but that allows re-assembly after the bearings are lubricated. When the nuts are removed, firmly pull the front of the motor housing toward you. This may require a firm pull or GENTLE prying, as the rear bearing sometimes doesn't want to let go. When you have the front portion of the housing and shaft out, hold the housing and pull the shaft out of the front bearing. Again, this may require a steady firm pull straight back. When the rotor & shaft are free, you'll need some very fine emery paper to remove the varnish that's built up on the shaft (it's unmistakable where to clean the shaft.) And I never attempt to do anything with the front and rear bearing themselves - too much work, and cleaning the shaft does the job for me. Then clean everything up carefully and lubricate the shaft where it enters the bearings (and maybe a drop in the rear bearing itself.) I use a very fine machine oil that I bought at Sears, but I think any good oil would work. Then, it's re-assembly time - shaft into front bearing, shaft into rear bearing as the motor housing is put back together (lining up the bolts), four nuts on the bolts & tighten (firmly, no gorilla), press fan back on shaft (don't force it too far on - it'll stop when it's in the right place), plug in and check, re-attach front louver (just press - the clips will snap easily into place.)"

I am not familiar with the model you are struggling with and it would be difficult to help you without a few more and better quality pictures. The picture you supplied features the motor and I think what is the (black with white printing) capacitor can almost be seen to the left with a blue and a white wire that might or might not be connected to it. I suspect you used your phone to take the picture as there isn't enough pixels to expand it to a useful size without losing detail. The capacitor is probably a radio interference suppressor and in that case would be simply connected across the supply. It is possible the "capacitor" is an interference filter and in that case the connections would be marked on the unit.

Return it. returns exchanges are no problem.

Good luck there. Vornado is very vague and does not disclose any information. If it is a vintage vornado, you can type the model number into the search box, hit images and they have a few showing the wiring.