20 Most Recent Pioneer GM-5200T Car Audio Amplifier Questions & Answers

I can't locate a manual for that unit. Look here for standard color codes: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/headunitharness.asp

take speaker wires off amp if the lit is green then speaker are hooked up wrong or blown.

Does the amp power up normally if you disconnect the speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp?

It's never a good thing to blindly short across a power source.

i dont think transistors are bad . you should check the amp controlls they may need adjusting

It could be a power fault (polarity is crossed), thermal fault (amplifier is too hot), subwoofer fault (subwoofer is blow or impedance is too low (ohms)), or either the amp has been ran too hard, meaning you played it till it went into themal, turned it off, and turned it back on to reset it, didnt allow it the time it needed to cool off, and continued to play it. If you did that, its hard faulted, and you need to repair or replace it.

While I cannot find any reference to the flashing red light in the manual, it sounds like the amp is going into a protection mode. I would check the following items:

-Make sure you have the power wires connected to the battery with sufficient size to supply the load. The amplifier is rated for a 30 amp draw, and is fused at 60 amps (2x 30 amp fuses in parallel). I would recommend at least 8 gauge wire as an absolute minimum..and ideally larger than that. To troubleshoot this, try hooking a battery (with fuses inline, of course) with heavy gauge wire directly to the amp. Does the problem go away? If so, the voltage drop due to wire being too small is likely your culprit.

-Make sure your connections are clean. Corrosion at any point can rob your amp of the power it needs for sharp punch and proper operation. Be sure to also check wires at any other connection point. This includes fuse blocks, crimp terminals and at the battery itself. Keep in mind that corrosion does not have to be visible to cause problems. Soldering connections rather than just crimping them (when practical) can help overcome this, as can sealing connections that are exposed to road dirt and grime under the hood.

-Check the impedance of your speakers, and how they are wired. The manual goes into great detail on page 2 about how to properly wire speakers, and what ohm rating each should have. If you are using two 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel on one channel, this is too low impedance for the amp. Either split each 4 ohm speaker onto its own channel or switch to 8 ohm speakers.

While you might check these and still have a problem, hopefully these will eliminate some sources of problems outside of the amplifier itself. Good luck!

IF THE SPEAKER PULSES IN OR OUT WHEN YOU CONNECT THE LEADS TO AMPLIFIER, IT MAY BE OUTPUTTING DC WHICH WILL EVENTUALLY BURN THE VOICECOIL OUT. MOST TIMES AMPLIFIERS ARE DESIGNED WITH PROTECTION CIRCUITRY TO DETECT THIS CONDITION. A FEW RARE AMPLIFIERS WILL ACTUALLY PASS A DC SIGNAL FROM THE INPUTS, THROUGH THE AMPLIFIER, TO THE OUTPUTS AND ONWARD TO THE SPEAKERS, SO I SUGGEST THAT YOU REMOVE THE INPUT RCA'S AND RETEST. IF IT STILL DOES IT, THEN THE AMPLIFIER WILL NEED TO BE SERVICED.....V

amp is probably bad. i call this "motor boating". especially if it is a constant pulse. 9 times out of 10 the amp is the problem with this. rarely is the radio the problem.

explain with greater detail

This sounds normal. The light comes on when there is 12v supplied to the blue wire (remote input). Need more details. [email protected]

the remote needs to be plugged in as well. it should be next to the power/ground terminals. put 12volts on it. lights should come on. if not amp is faulty.

check every connection with a volt meter to see where u r losing power

That is a sign that your amp is blown.

possible not compatable with each other, wrong amount amp, too much power that cause it to disable amp (protection)

disconnect the negative battery terminal, replace the fuse with all the wires hooked up to the amp and reconnect the battery terminal, that way the initial surge of power goes through the negative terminal and not your inline fuse. That should solve your problem.

Always verify the grounding circuit and trace all connecting wires back to their sources. Also verify with a voltmeter if you have 12vdc at the amp. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_aad3edb7dfa380b9

THIS IS AN EASY FIX. DISCONNECT THE POWER WIRE FROM BATTERY. REMOVE THE GROUND WIRE FROM THE CARS BODY. SAND ALL THE PAINT AWAY FROM THAT AREA. WIPE IT CLEAN WITH A DRY CLOTH AND HOOK THE GROUND BACK UP. THEN RECONNECT THE POWER WIRE AND THAT SHOULD FIX IT. IF NOT THEN TURN DOWN UR GAIN CAUSE THE AMP IS OVER HEATING

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