Asko D1776 Stainless Steel Built-in Dishwasher - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Try these... -Clean out the drain pump inside and below. - Pull the suction boot off the drain pump, clean out any gookus. - Blow through the drain hose starting from the connection at the pump. make sure it is not clogged follow the line from under the sink and disonnect it from under the sink and make sure it is clear - If all else checks out, replace the pump. The Duet hides the pump/filter access behind the lower panel. Most LG, Miele and ASKO washers have it right up front for easy access. I guess keeping such a base element out of view helps sales. Long Drain error code. If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes, the water valves are turned off and "F/02" is flashed. Press, PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display. NOTE: After 4 minutes the "Sud" error will be displayed, then 4 minutes later the "F2 error code" will be displayed. Potential Causes:(1) Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked. (2) Check the electrical connections at the pump and make sure the pump is running. (3) Check the drain pump filter for foreign objects. If the above does not correct the problem replace the pump

Hi, Welcome to FixYa. The "F2" for Asko dishwasher indicates an issue with the unit overfilling. This can be caused by several things, faulty inlet valve, drain pump, a plugged fill switch/overfill hose or a leak which causes the overfill switch to actuate or even a plugged drain hose. ( if you wait a couple of days it may in fact start working as the water in the base evaporates ) I would start by removing the bottom toe panel to see if the base is full of water and then check the drain hose where it connects to your home plumbing. Of course make sure you turn off the power at the breaker panel. If you don't feel like these are things you can check I'd recommend calling an authorized Asko service provider. Let me know what you find. Macmarkus :)

The motor is not getting switched on at the proper time. The timer / cycle selector is the problem and is easily repairable.

The water inlet pipes may have screens or filters that are clogged.

Try to adjust the doorlock, if this model supports that. If so, it's a Torx 20 screw, pointing upwards in the middle of the locking "hook". Loosen the screew, an pull the hook just a millimeter or so outwards, an re-tighten screw. Try the machine and re-adjust if nessesary.

I'm having the same issues. What did you do to solve yours? My start button never lights up! Thanks for your help!

If you hear the drain pump running but water stays in the bottom then you have to check if the kitchen sink drain is clear. More particularly if you have a garbage disposal unit in kitchen sink then make sure it is working and has been cleared before running the dishwasher. In case you do not hear any drain pump or it is rough and not draining then it may need to be replaced. The drain pump is available from this site.

F2 error message means that you have a high water level problem that could be caused: - A plugged or bed water pump - A defective water inlet valve (stay open) Good luck !

http://www.guybanks.com/asko/products.asp?category=3Control Board Kit Part # 8801201 Price: $319.95 Shipping: Free*

If you can open the panel and allow the panel to dried then tested to confirm before the panel is removed.Use a hair dryer or a good air jet to remove all moisture from the panel and see if this works.

Hi

Yes you are right, that is the correct part no also available at this link. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Hi,

I think what you are describing is the "turbo fan" assembly. This device is used to remove the condensation to insure dishes are dry at the end of a cycle. It actually vent`s out the bottom left side via a plastic housing but the vent motor assembly is located inside the door at the upper left corner under the circular cover

i.e.




If it ( the fan) continues to run or "hums" because it`s trying to run, even when the dishwasher is idle or no program has been selected, it is likely a problem within` the control board unfortunately.

This is usually caused by the vent assembly getting clogged up so it cannot open correctly and the "wax motor" ( the small device which open`s and closes the vent ) burns up and short`s out the control board.

You can see the small wax motor in this image, the brown/red brick shaped device on top of the fan housing...

i.e.






If you`re capable, you can visually inspect the control and look for burnt up path ways on the printed circuit side ( green side with lot`s of solder joints ). It may be pretty obvious as soon as you see the control as it was ith this one I attached here,

i.e.




If so you`ll need to replace the control as well as the fan assembly, or clean the assembly really well,

i.e.

1



2



3



4



5



6



Clean all the fan blade a vent thoroughly and reassemble with the new wax motor and control and you should be good to go.

You may opt to just replace the entire fan assembly, it is available and comes as complete,

i.e.




Most asko control`s come with a new "wax motor"...or used to where I live. Unfortunately those control`s retail for about $400 and up, and most now are of the "rebuilt/refurbished" kind. The part number should be ( if the model number is correct ) # 8801201.

Hope this help`s move you forward. Let me know either way and I`ll try to assist you further.

Thank`s for visiting FixYa today for your repair solution`s and good luck moving forward. Please take a moment to rate the info I provided for you today and again good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

You may have debris in the sprayer arm jets. It is usually simple to remove the sprayer arms. Then rinse them well using the sink sprayer for forceful water power. I have sometimes had to use a tweezer to remove bits of plastic, paper, bone, or food particles. Once you've remove the debris, rinse well forcing water through to dislodge any other debris. Once you've reattached the sprayer arms, you should have cleaner dishes. Also, some brands of dishwashers have a pipe that runs up the inside back wall and connects to a pipe that runs under the top shelf. Water flowing through this pipe under the top shelf propels the sprayer arms. If the connection at the back is not flush with the "propel" pipe there won't be enough water pressure to turn the sprayer arm. Check to see if your dishwasher has this type of set up.
I hope this works. If it does, please let Fixya know by rating my solution.
Good luck!

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description it is likely a faulty control board, unfortunately. Here's what you can do to check...

**Turn off any power to the unit...safety first**

You'll need to access the control, this is best done by way of removing the front panel, i.e.


Once to this point, identify the wires on contact PF2 and inspect the closest relay to it, which will be K1.

If you are capable, measure amperage from PF2 when the unit is idle there shouldn't be power present, you'll require an ammeter.

Having said all that, it may be obvious when you visually inspect the control, if it's burnt up or if the relay looks burnt inside.

This is an example of a damaged control but it may not be as extreme with a heater relay defective...


Let me know what you find and I'll try to help you further if necessary. For the control should be available at "repairclinic.com"...but if not let me know I may have one left.

Good luck and thanks for choosing FixYa.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hello Imaries. THat grinding noise is the dishwasher's transmission going bad. This is an expensive part and an even more expensive service call. If you are under warranty, call and get an estimate. Sometimes, even when the warranty covers the part it is still wiser to replace rather than repair. The best news is that the new dishwashers are the best ever made. Quieter, less electricity used, less water used, and THE cleanest dishes ever. Joe

Thanks for choosing Fixya!

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description "f2 overfill. how to reset?" It is likely nothing very serious.

The "F2" with Asko dishwashers means the control is indicating an overfill has been detected...but I gather you know that based on your post. Whether the unit has actually overfilled or not remains to be seen, but to reset it is fairly simple...if nothing else is at fault.

**before proceeding turn the dishwasher power off via the home breaker panel, or unplug it from the wall if that is possible...most are hard wired to the home electrical...safety first**

The first thing to do is remove the toe panel/kick plate and inspect the base for water. If water is present, with the aid of a sponge, towels, or a wet-dry shop vacuum, absorb the water from the base.

By way of removing the water from the overfill basin should "reset" the unit. If the unit works fine after resetting the power/breaker it can likely be chalked up to a drain back-up or obstruction in the drain hose or pump.

Try this and let me know what you find and I`ll assist you in moving forward if necessary.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hello,

Welcome to fixya.

Here's what works for me, move the rack stops to the left if you haven't already and then the rack itself.

i.e.

and



Now you'll need to remove the bumpers at the back of the rack rail...

i.e.

push down on the bumper as shown


and pull it down and out at the same time...it takes some force as evident by my finger tip ha ha, you can use a small screwdriver...I'm just stubborn.


Now you'll need to slide the rail all the way out as shown, but careful not to let the ball bearings fall into the sump area in the process.


I usually hold the broken piece in place while removing the rail...



...( they come in a kit at "repairclinic.com" under number 1394379 like shown here )




The trick now is to install the balls into the holders first





and the holders into the stationary part of the rail on the inside wall...



The inside wall rail will keep the holders in place as you slide the inside rail into place...this will usually require holding the holder with one hand while pushing the sliding rail back into place...



Once this is done, re-install the back rail bumpers followed by the rack and then finally the front rack stoppers and that should do it.

Hope that explain it for you or gives you an idea of how it needs to be done.

Thanks for visiting "fixya" today for your repair help. Let me know if you require further assistance.

Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

P.S.

I should also mention you as I alluded to, be sure none of the old 8 ball bearings didn't fall down into either the drain pump or circulation/wash pump. This is something I've seen far too often on Asko dishwashers with the end result being a broken impeller in either pump...or both, yikes ! I use a telescopic magnet to fish around as it will be the only object made of metal...unless something else has fallen in the sump well area, it's good to check.

Again, good luck :)

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to find out why water will not come into thedishwasher...

Dishwasher Trouble No Water entering Dishwasher

heatman101

This is a heating fault, it can be caused by one of 3 things, 1: the control board could have failed, 2: the thermostat may have failed 3: the element may have failed. another common cause of this on these machines is a broken wire in the door where it bends when you open and close the door. If you are handy with basic tools remove to door front and (with the power OFF) give the wires a light pull where they go under the front of the door. you can easily repair these wires and always heatshrink the wire you have repaired after you have fixed it.

if you are talking about the stainless steel panel they are usually glued on. there is some history of the glue letting loose on stainless appliances