20 Most Recent Asko W6021 Front Load Washer - Page 8 Questions & Answers

you would start at the top back by losening the screws that hold the upper cover on the machine and when you remove these screws you would then slide the panel to the rear of the machine. nest you will see the rubber gaskey along the door has a metal ring simply use a screw driver without ripping the rubber boot to remove the ring. After this then u can remove the screws which hold the front panel which also has the door on it the part you are describing sounds like the door hasp or the catch the holds the door closed. because it is an asko your probably better off going to manufacturer to order your parts because this is a foreign model. please remember to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation and if i can answer anything further please message me back
Thanks again
Rick

Hi dear.Please follow the link below to dowload the quick start guide.
http://safemanuals.com/user-guide-instructions-owner-manual/ASKO/W6021-_E
I hope that solves your problem.Thanks.

try cleaning the washer by filling with hot water and either bleach or a product called affresh

Hi,

Welcome to FixYa.

That is the Liquid detergent partition...P/N 8061633. ( part number )

**This from ASKO...

Because ASKO washers use less water than conventional top-loading washers, you need less detergent and fabric softener. We recommend that you use a low-sudsing powder detergent only, preferably a high-efficiency (HE) detergent designed specifically for front-loading washers.

**(Liquid detergents tend to suds more, which make them more difficult to rinse out.)**

Detergent - The amount of detergent needed varies, depending on the detergent you use. For high-efficiency detergent specifically for front-loading washers, you should use the amounts recommended by the manufacturer.

Also, the amount of detergent needed can vary due to differences in water hardness. (Refer to the Use and Care Guide for more details.) If you choose to use a liquid detergent, start out with a very small amount, such as one or two tablespoons.

Hope that answers your question, let me know please.Thanks for choosing FixYa for your repair solutions today. Let me know if you need further assistance.

Please take a moment and rate the solution provided for you as well as a testimony if you feel it warranted.

Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

You will probably have to replace the fill valve. when you lost then regained water pressure debris must have gotten into fill valve not allowing it to seat properly and shut off the water flow

Hi.

If it makes strange noise, then the door lock should be OK. When the door lock contact is open the machine will not start.

Before doing anything else disconnect power from the appliance.

Since cycle does not start, first part to test if there is no water inside the machine is inlet. Move the machine forward and check the inlet hose at the back, ensure that it is not kinked or blocked.

Check also drain hose. If more water is being detected and pumped out when you start the machine, a blockage at drain hose will result in machine making noise and cycle not starting (drain hose mentioned is the one at the back, not the filter).

As said, if there is water inside the machine, before filling the machine will drain the water. For this same reason, while machine is apart from the wall , try to understand if machine is pumping out water at the start of the cycle. If it is, then go back to the filter (disconnect again first), and double check in there. After that check the pressure switch. Pressure switch detects the level of water in the tub and starts/stop the drain pump. Try cleaning pressure switch screen and blowing into the pipe attached to PS.

If that does not work, then the problem is more complex. Next steps will be testing inlet valve, double checking door lock, and testing motor, motor control unit, wiring and central control unit. Pump is also tested by energizing it directly.

In that case better calling a technician by ringing the number listed in the owners manual. Some of the testing mentioned must be done with machine cycling.

Here parts: http://www.repairclinic.com/Asko-Parts

Here general diagrams to help locating parts:

Diag 1

Diag 2

Regards.

I have a manual for 1504 and it says F2 blinking means high water level in machine

The first thing to do is to CHECK IN AND AROUND THE RUBBER DOOR BOOT (called a bellow) for small articles of clothing (like socks and underwear) that may have gotten lodged in behind the rubber. Pull the rubber back where it meets the wash tub and look behind it. It is common for small items to get stuck here, become forgotten and start to mildew. You should check this area after each wash and clean it periodically to get rid of the formation of soap scum, mold, and mildew. HINT: When you get ready to wash a load of towels, take a dirty towel and clean the door boot thoroughly (including the areas behind the rubber). Immediately place the towel in the wash and run it on a sanitary cycle. This way you eliminate the need for cleaning rags.

PERIODICALLY RUN THE WASHER ON A CLEANING CYCLE. Place the washer on the hottest setting you have (usually a Sanitary cycle) with nothing but bleach in the wash tub. Some newer models actually have a "Clean Cycle" available now just for this purpose. This helps keep the wash tub, drain lines and pump sanitized.

CHECK AND CLEAN THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER. Accumulations of debris in the drain pump filter can also cause odors. HINT: If you own a shop vac, pull the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum on the line. This will drain any residual water left in the tub, pump and drain lines BEFORE you remove the drain pump cover. This will prevent a messy clean up later.

LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN IF POSSIBLE. When not in use, leave the door open to allow the tub to air out and to keep mold and mildew from forming on the door bellow. I know this may not be desirable in some households with small children. If too much mildew forms on the rubber and it cannot be removed, replacement of the bellow may be required.

NOTE: This problem is common with front loader style washing machines. The doors on these machines have an air tight/water tight seal that is great for sealing the washer during the wash cycle, but can be terrible for collecting small garments and for not allowing the tub to properly air out when not in use. Following these simple preventive measures can go a long way towards preventing harmful mold and mildew, and towards extending the life of the door bellow and pump.



Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.!!#$

HI- It is possible that one of the stones got stuck between the stainless basket and the tub. This is not a good scenario as the whole from panel and tub boot have to be removed and whatever is stuck has to be fished out. I would look as well for a nail or something long that is stuck down though one of the holes in the stainless basket and is rubbing on the tub. If you only notice during the drain or spin then likely there is something in the drain pump. You can check this by opening the pump cover at the bottom of the machine and removing the pump filter. Your Owners Manual should have an explanation of this procedure. It's pretty easy, just be ready to catch the water that will come out of the pump. Hope this helps, good luck.

HI- If the clothes are coming out wet then there is either a problem with the spin cycle or drain pump. The door won't open if the washer senses there is too much water in the machine. Try doing a dedicated spin again the see if the door will open. Your drain pump may also be clogged. There is a little door at the bottom front of the machine. Open this (pry carefully open with a butter knife) and you will see a plastic plug that can be unscrewed (counter clockwise), this is the pump filter. Be prepared to catch the water that will come out with a pan and have some towels ready, sometimes there is a lot of water. Once you get the filter out clean it out and check for any loose change inside the pump. Screw it back in carefully and tight and be careful not to strip the threads. Run a rinse and spin once it's all back together and see if it drains ok. If it still is not draining you probably need a new pump. There are very few Asko Techs around so you may have some trouble getting someone out. As well, call Asko customer service, they have really good techs that can help you over the phone. Good luck.

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

I wonder if you could elaborate and clarify on the issue and the events which led to it as well as the model number of your Asko.

When you say "machine will not go on. It is stuck", is there no power, no led indicator light or it just won`t start.

Specifically what you mean by "I opened it and took out clothes by popping it open".

Do you mean you opened via the button which "pops" it open, or did you pull the emergency pull cord or in fact force it open some how ?

Also when you state "Now nothing works" does this mean the unit has no power and will not come on or does it just mean there appears to be power, but will not start.

I should be able to assist you when I can speak directly towards your model as opposed to generalizing since even within the Asko brand there are many models to cover.

I`ll watch for your reply.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hi.

The thermistor is located near to the heating element(pt.40) and motor(pt.6). The thermistor/holder assembly is part 31/31in picture below:



To get the full part manual click here. The assembly is at pages 4/5.

Here the part.

To test the thermistor remove it from circuit and read Ohms at its terminals. If the thermistor is good it must read zero or very low impedance. If it reads open, then it is broken.

If this solution was helpful, then please do not forget to accept the solution. Your feedback is important to us.

Regards.

Hi,

This is a common problem and there are few causes for the same.

First of all, you need to unplug the machine, remove the back panel ( 8 or so hex screws ) and locate the point where the drainage hose meets the water draining pump ( for this you need to remove the front panel below the pin trap - attached by 2 torq screws . The hose is just pulled off the pump with clamp attached.Check for coins and lint. Then, re - attach the hose with clamp remaining in place ).

If you do not find anything, more often that would indicate a hardware failure. Then, you need to have a multimeter and check the DC voltage at the water pump wiring as Faulty PUMP is most of the common problems on this model. Other than this it could be a case of faulty overflow sensor or water control valve is stuck. The last two are not usually home handy man repair.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

After teh program the latch had to disable but possible that the lock got jammed or the end link is not connecting.
Look from the bottom and you can access the lock section to release and get the lock function.
Once it opens use good degreasing spray and then oil then lock as there can be rust or dirt that has got it stuck.
The end program safety link must also work.

hello,

please follow this instruction

But generally you will see a plastic lever that is touching both the door open button and the area of the door switches.

That lever is what breaks most often, and if you will push up on the door hooks (latch heads) , the door will open.

Pushing on the door open button repeatedly while looking inside will help you figure it out, too.

thank you.

it should be giving you a fault code i am enclosing a list of error codes for you to scan through essentially though when you had the water not draining properly you should of not have drained and then ran the machine by doing this the problem actually grew larger on the inside of the machine you would need to perform some continuity and power tests from the board throught out the machine to be able to tell which part isnt working properly here are your codes
Failure Code Condition Check/Repair "F1" Water supply/low water fill · Check water supply to machine
· Replace water inlet valve "F2" Water level too high · Plugged/Bad water pump
· Faulty water valve "F3" Pump problem Check pump trap and clean. "F4" Thermistor problem · Open thermistor, replace
· Bad wiring to thermistor "F5" Fault in thermal cutout or heating pause fault. Selected temperature not reached in 90 minutes · Check heating element
· Check thermostat "F6" Motor fault · Check wiring to motor
· Replace motor if necessary "F7" Door lock release fault · Bent pull-rod for door latch
· Bad door latch solenoid "00 00" Machine did not spin Check load for out of balance Redistribute load and restart
it could also be a a problem with the control but i would start where you encountered your first problem start at the pump because that was where it all began you could also have a bad capacitor or switch if you are unable to perform the various continuity and power test on the machine please call a technician if you have any more questions please message me back

Not to worry, please check from the drain hose from beneath and open the hose. Look for dirt inside for clogging into the valve/drain pump. Remove and clean the valve/pump if there is dirt. If not during the spin the valves must open and drain. if not check for the controller section for fault. The clunk noise could be misalignment of the suspension or the damper unit. tighen or replace. Hope you try . Good day

Hi, there may be excess water in the water reservoir. Empty the washer Turn it off at the mains, and unplug it, then put some old towels on the floor, tip the washer forward until the excess water comes out. Reconnect and try again.

Hi, welcome to Fixya. With Asko machines the issue with the "light" may or may not be related to it not starting as well as the door latch. Sometimes the lens which holds the light in place behind the console cracks and the light falls loose, so although the light still illuminates, you only see a slight glow or not at all as a result. The other issue may be the unit is only getting 1/2 volts. **UNPLUG THE POWER CORD** Check the fuses at the back (there will be 2). They are by the cord in a "holder" that is either gray in color or black. Observe them and you'll notice they have a slot in them so you can use a flat screwdriver to remove the holder/hub (as Asko likes to refer to them), once removed you can check across the fuse with a meter for continuity or replace with a known new/good fuse. If that solves the problem...awesome. Let me know and I'll follow up if needed. **ALSO** If you replace the fuse and in a short time it blows again, you likely need new fuse holders & hubs. They do suffer from metal fatigue over time which in turn causes a poor connection and of course equals undesired resistence, hence...blown fuse. The same can & likely will happen to the dryer if it's an Asko as well FYI. Hope this helps, let me know if I can assist you further. Good Luck. Thanks for visiting "fixya" today, please take a moment to rate the info provided here today. Macmarkus :)

There should be a trap to catch small items that might slip past the seals of the drum. find it and clean it out. That might correct the problem.

However, you might be using too much or the wrong kind of laundry detergent. Front loaders can't use regular top loader detergent. Too much suds can cause the machine to stop. that may be why you find suds in the drum when you think the washing should be done.

Some units have lights that change as the washing process changes what it is doing. If it's working properly, the light indicating the door is unlocked will be lit at the end of the washing cycle. If the machine stops short of that, something is definitely wrong with the machine and requires a thorough inspection by a professional.
Jim Hart