20 Most Recent Maytag Freezer MQU2057 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Good day,
Sounds as if the fan in the freezer compartment isn't running. If so, remove the rear panel of the freezer compartment, inspect, and replace the motor if it tests bad.

If the fan is running, then look for a frost buildup on the lower half of the back panel.
If that's the case, then the defrost system has failed.
It is made up of 3 parts. The main heater, a calrod heater, mounted to the bottom of the cooling coil, and in the same area, a defrost thermostat, a round approx. 1" in diameter item that is clipped to the top of the coil.
Both can be tested with an ohm meter for continuity, once you remove the rear panel. However, the thermostat must be tested before it opens on it's own, which is about 50 degrees.
The last item is the defrost control which can be a timer or a solid state control board.
If it is a timer, you can advance it's shaft clockwise until the machine shuts off. If good it will turn the machine back on within 45 minutes. If not, it is bad and must be replaced.

Without a model number the answers are the best that be given.
If you want to post a response with details and model number, it would be a more detailed response from us.

Below is a description on defrost system basic functions to help you if needed.

http://www.appliance411.com/faq/howdefrostworks.shtml

Good day,
The normal operation is for the ice maker to harvest a batch of cubes, and then just before competing it's cycle, to open the valve to add more water for 7 seconds then shut off smartly.

At least 50% of water valve problems cause an overfill problem, because of internal wear etc. that does not let the valve close on time. This causes an overflow problem to the ice maker, and all the problems you described.

It should be corrected as soon as possible, since they have been known to throttle open and never close. Should it be overnight or while away, the damage can become quite serious.

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Most times this is a plugged defrost drain system. The defrost heater in the freezer section melts the frost and changes it to water, this water is suppose to flow down a drain system. If this drain system is restricted or plugged the water will leak inside the refrigerator. The drain system starts in the freezer section with a tray built under the evaporator coil. The water is funneled through a small hose into a cup in the top middle of the fresh food section (not on all models, but this is the most common way), from there, the water is directed out the back wall to a drain hose that runs down the back of the refrigerator into a condensing tray. The heat created under the fridge makes the water evaporate and disappear. Some of the cups (in the top back of the fresh food section) can be removed for cleaning. A turkey baster can be used to help clean out the drain system. Fill the baster with hot water and "blast" it into the drain hose to help flush it out. A piece of wire or pipe cleaner can also be pushed into the drain hoses to help clean then out. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.



Thanks
Rylee

Hi,
You are probably right that it is always running. This is because the thermostat/sensor has gone bad. The fridge adjusts by a door that allows air to come from the freezer to the fridge side. Therefore this will still work...
You will need to replace or have the thermostat replaced....

Heatman101

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3907570-buy_appliance_parts_online

The defrost drain hole in the freezer side is frozen closed.
Turn off the fridge.Remove the bottom bin and look on the back wall of the freezer for the drain pan. It will have a block of ice in it. Use a hair dryer to defrost the pan AND the drain hole inside the pan,until you can pour a cup of water through the drain hole.

i got a straw and blew it through

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search_results.jsp?searchTerm=MBF2255KEW&siteCd=MT_EN_US
go to this Maytag web site. It has a list of the manuals for your unit.
Hope this helps.

This will be caused by your fan inside the freezer. (The fan turns off when you open the door). Either the fan motor is bad or there is ice built up and the blades are hitting it. Good luck

you may have dislodged a sensor or perhaps you may have blocked your water line somehow... im not sure about this specific model, but just try having a look at what you did and see if there are sensors around there.. and make sure u havent dropped anything in there wich may have clogged the lines... lets hope its not your solenoid that has gone, sounds unlikely though you never know

BASE WARRANTY 12 months 12 months 01/01/2003 Leak Not Found 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Compressor Process Stub 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Other Sealed System Repair 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Refrigerant Charge 120 months 0 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Heat Loop 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Drier 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Sound Muffler - Leaks, Restrictions, Rep 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Liquid Control Valve - Leaks, Restrictio 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Service Valves 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Accumulator / Heat Exchanger 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Capillary 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Tubing / Valves - Leaks 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Condenser / Precooler (High Side) 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Evaporator (Low Side) 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Strainer Replacement 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Tubing / Cap Tube Replacement 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Heat Pump Valve Replacement 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Accumulator / Heat Exchanger Replacement 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Condenser / Precooler Replacement 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Evaporator Replacement 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Compressor Replacement 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Liquid Control Valve 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Sound Muffler 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Food Loss 120 months 120 months 01/01/2003 12/31/2005 Light Bulb / Indicator Light 0 months 0 months 01/01/2003

You have a defrost problem. Either the defrost timer is not working to put it into an auto defrost, or you have a bad defrost heater or DTS (defrost thermostat switch).

A leak from the freezer means the icemaker is overfilling OR the water valve is broken.

Hard to diagnose without looking the appliance, so, check:

Can you see if the water is coming out from the icemaker fill tube? If so, is the icemaker bar in the OFF Position?

If both questions are answered as yes, the the water valve needs to be replaced. Perhaps it was already broken or foreign objects went into it during installation.

The part number for this model is 61005997 and costs about $25.00 USD. Check at the local appliance parts store (or check in google for a local appliance repair and parts). As I don't have your location, I can't do it for you.

For more information and support about your appliance you can visit the maytag website support at
http://www.maytag.com/support/service_parts.jsp


Good luck !

ur compressor is trying to start but the safety is turning it off may have a bad compressor but try this first might get it working again -(safety click sound) disconnects power when compressor gets to hot or is drawing to many amps--stuck--comp gets hot unplug unit and clean with a vacuum carefully under where comp and fan are this is the condenser area after cleaning or 1 hr plug in and check for start and that condenser fan is working may be reason for overheating-if still not working compressor needs service

ok hopefully i or the whatev er tech told you to ensure that the drain tube is free of obstruction
try removing the back panel and then remove the drain tube it self
make sure it is not restricted in any way
next if you have the metal drip pan above the tube
make sure the hole in the middle of the mtal pan is twisted open with a screwdriver
put a flat head in the hole and twist....
sometime you will get a water tension cover here similar to pudding skin
believe it or not that skin will block the hole and buld up ice
sinc eyou defrost seems to be working just fine im sure this should help
on elast thing there might be a duck bill on your drain tube

if therte is remove it,,,, its a rubber drip regulater on the pan end of rthe drain

either the contactor on compressor is defective or the comp is low on freon/refrigerant

model #? some are inside the unit, some are down below in the grill area (below doors) hope this helps

If it has a fan in it, it's self defrosting. The moving air burns away the frost and 8 out of every 24 hours, the defrost timer will turn a heating element in the cooling coils, to melt away any ice buildup.
If it isn't a self defrost model, you can safely defrost it woth a pan of hot water. I also use a spray bottle woth hot water to help the process. DON'T use anything electrical to make the heat. Water can drip into or onto it and you could get electrocuted.

Unplug the unit, discharge the old capacitor, remove it and install the new one. Don't cross the wires.