20 Most Recent Asko T780 Dryer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

H7 error in your Asko Dryer means that there is a problem with gas valve, either the valve is blocked or the gas supply is not fine. Check your gas supply at the connection of the gas hoses and the valves. If you have already checked all this then use warranty and get the valve replaced. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

If yourdryer is not starting then it is your motor. To determine this there is a trick you can try. First, put a piece a tape over the safetyswitch on the dryer. Take one hand andspin your drum of your dryer as your press the start button. If it takes off, then there is a bad spot onthe motor. Another thing is to try checkto see if you are getting 220 Volts to you outlet by taking a volt meter set at250 volts. Take the red leg of the volt meterto the one side and the black leg to the other side. If the volt reader reads 220 then you aregetting the proper voltage. Finally, ifyou are getting 220 volts then it is your dryer heating elements. On a 220 volt for the dryer one leg is forthe motor and leg is for the element. Ifyou are getting 220 volts then it is more than likely you have bad motor.

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Hi wallygrant...
I think you have a broken belt, or the belt slipped off of the pulleys.
Try this solution, it works on numerous dryers...

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley or a faulty motor.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the screws that hold the filter housing.
Then remove the top of the dryer.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

page 21:

http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/itemdocs/English-T711-721-731-761-781_UCG.pdf

I have your Asko dryer technician's service manual right ova HEAH

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Assuming that you need a 220V connector, they can be purchased at home Depot. They are generally made with about three feet of cable attached. you will have to take the back plate off of the dryer and attach the three leads to the proper termination.

You need to have your drum rollers replaced, they are making the noise because they are falling apart.
Also it could be or include the drum belt breaking down and falling apart...which means its about to break.
Normally pretty cheap parts can be found on the net...look around.
Its a pretty easy fix.

If you continue to try to run the dryer after the automatic shut off kicks-in it will shut the cycle down with no flashing lights after the dryer reaches a critical and dangerous temperature. If the dryer is skipping immediately to this step without any flashing lights then call an Asko certified repairman as something may be wrong with the machine. If you have not tried cleaning the condensor, please do this as well. Remove the bottom housing of the dyer, move the two red handle to the right, and pull out the condensor unit. Wash it under warm/hot water using a bathtub or shower and you will see lint and dust come out by the heapful. Replace the condensor unit, wait about 30-45 minutes, and then try restarting your dry cycle.

Kevin C., Asko USA.

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

When the Thermal fuse of the dryer goes bad it wont turn on or will stop heating. You can check the thermal fuse for continuity, if it is open then the thermal fuse needs replacement however, if the fuse tests continuity then check the control board (if that is bad then it needs replacement). Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Hi, Sorry you have had to wait so long for an answer or possible solution. Hopefully it's not too late. There are two things to look for on an Asko dryer that is heating & tumbling but not drying ( since you've indicated the lint screen has been cleaned ) 1) a clogged vent...however this doesn't seem likely since you have heat & a poor vent usually trips the manual hi-limit reset on the heater housing in back. 2) a loose or broken exhaust blower wheel...this IS most likely and I've come across quite a few. The squirrel cage type blower has a "D" shaped shaft which fits to the shaft of the motor and is held there via a single nut. Over time or use, the blower will stripe the "D" shape shaft which enables it to not move the exhaust sufficiently, hence the items do not dry properly or as they once did. You can chrck this by pulling the access panel off followed by the plastic covering ( exhaust housing covers ) to expose the blower wheel. If it spins freely and independant of the motor, you'll need to tighten it or, more likely need to replace it. Hope this was helpful in solving your problem. Thanks for coming to "fixya" and let me know if I can assist you further. Good luck. Macmarkus :)

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm

belt around the drum fell or broke off

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

There are indeed 2 fuses on the dryer next to the power cord, ( depending on the model, some are actually inside a cover...you`ll have to provide a model number if your Asko doesn`t look like the image below ) left side of back as illustrated below...facing from the back.





Further to this, if they both check out as o.k. I'd suggest you remove the top and check the wiring going to and from the fuse hubs/holders as they can and do become burnt and worn due to metal fatigue over time.

**Unplug the unit from the wall before servicing though...safety first**

The top is easy to remove, just three screws at the back along the top ( # 25 torx heads ) and slide the top back an inch or two and up, it will come off.

You should then see similar to this ( this is an Asko dryer model 7005, but the fuse and connectors will be similar )

i.e.




The fuse assembly subs to a complete kit now, like shown below.


This hopefully will move you forward. Thanks for choosing FixYa and good luck.

Let me know if you require further assistance or if indeed this solved your problem. Please keep me informed either way


Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. It seems to be the issue with the Thermal Fuse going bad and needs to be replaced. It is mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. Also, often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. Please accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.

Thanks

Rylee

http://www.repairclinic.com/Asko-Parts