Top 20 Maytag Ensignia 3.3 cu. ft. Top Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Problem: very irritating squealing sound when washer is spinning or coasting to a stop after the spin cycle.
Case:  1. Snubber damage defective.  
           2. Foreign material (sand/dust or grit) is on the base.
Solution: 1. Replace the snubber.  
                2. clean base.
     The snubber is a ring that is located between the convex (domed up) center portion of the base and the domed down center portion of the LEG & DOME ASSEMBLY.
     The snubber has teflon strips at the top and bottom edges that slide easily on the base as well as the underside of the leg and dome assembly.
     This system makes the machine very stable by providing isolation between the leg & dome assy. Which carries both the inner and outer tubs, as well as the main motor and transmission and the base; which is of course connected to the cabinet. This means that the machine is capable of spinning out of balance loads.
     As simple as this system is, if one on the strips is bent or there is some foreign material on the base in the snubber area, the result can be an extremely obnoxious scratching or squealing sound that can make the consumer very unhappy.
     A very similiar sound can be produced when the belt is worn but the difference is that a snubber noise can be produced during the spin cycle or when the cycle has finished and the spin tub is coasting to a stop. A worn belt noise can only be produced while the motor is actively engaged in spinning the spin tub. If it is discovered that the belt is worn and the base has black, shredded belt residue then it may not necessary to clean it out (belt residue generally will not cause a problem with the snubber). It will be necessary however, to find the cause of the belt failure.
     The following procedure should be followed to diagnose and eliminate this condition: 
Removing the snubber:
The base must be wiped whether the snubber is replaced or not.  Any residue whether it is dust or grit of any kind (other than belt residue as noted above) can cause the objectionable sound to occur.
Remove the front service panel and place the timer in the spin cycle and start the machine.  You want to try to duplicate the complaint.  Inspect the base for sign of any foreign material.  Lift the top panel up and over and lean it against the rear wall.
You will need a tool to raise the entire Leg & Dome Assembly (to which the main motor, tubs and transmission are attached).  The machine will not need to be disassembled; the springs will not even be released.
Some Techs use a length of two-by-four" to raise the assembly.  A pry-bar makes a superior tool when combined with a block of wood to act as a fulcrum (or pivot point).
Before raising the assembly, pull forward on it so that when you do raise it, the rear of the tub cover does not catch on the rear cabinet frame as it is being lifted.
Using your body weight, raise the assembly high enough to slide the snubber out.  You will need to inspect the snubber for defects or damage.  It is a good idea to be prepared with some sort of supports (like 3/4 inch pieces of wood) to slide between the lower edge of the assembly and the base to help support it if it were to slide off your pry-bar. 

Hi, Dose the water fill the first time you start it but, then will not fill in the rinse cycle? Does the water continually try to fill but never gets to the top?
I want to help.

Thanks
Vic

I had the same exact problem, called a repairman to take a look..he informed me the motor has burnt out! His first thought was the transmission, and said having the motor burnt out is better since it is less expensive.

Many of the maytag toploaders have a rubber fill hose at the top of the outer drum.
Sometimes if the machine is fully loaded (or overloaded), during the spin cycle if clothes are above the top of the drum they can actually knock the rubber flange of the hose out of the drum. Then when the machine fills with water, it will dump it down the outside of the tub and it will appear that the water is leaking from the top and side of the drum... Fix it by snapping the fill hose flange back into the hole in the top part of the drum... let me know how you do or need more help...

Replace the water valve where the hoses connect to the washer.

hi friend,
If your washer won't drain, check these:

It spins, but doesn't pump
It doesn't spin or pump
It pumps, but the water returns
It spins, but doesn't pump
If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many
washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub
that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's
attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the
hoses
from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the
large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using
needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator,
top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might
be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be
turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably
has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the
pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen
or stiff--replace it.

It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your
washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the
washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck
in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

* If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.


* If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

WHERE DO YOU SEE LEAK AT ,,, FROM TUB SEAL???? OR PUMP ////CAN ALSO BE HOSE TUB TO PUMP????????

Check the water level control, it could be stuck or faulty.

The bearings on Maytag Ensignia's are part of the seals that keep the water in. Once you start hearing the bearings begining to go, you likely will have a leak following shortly thereafter as the bearing greased is washed out by your laundry soap. Up front. This is a procedure that requires specialty tools and takes me about 45-60 minutes to complete. The easiest way to tackel this job is to take your model number (just on the back side of the console) and take it to a local appliance parts store. Ask them for a tub seal kit. (I can't give you a part number since there is no model number listed) but they should be able to pull it up for you. When they bring it up to the front, inside the seal kit is not only step-by-step directions, but also the part numbers for the specialized tools required as well. If you opt to go the repairman route, I'll forewarn you, the company I worked for charged around 250-300 for the repair on this. Send me back a message if you have any troubles or other questions.

same problem - stopped spinning, white dust - belt and motor r fine. Can anyone diagnose?

Hi Ed.

You should have 2 water supply hoses,, one water drain hose, and the power cord. What does the remaining hose look like?

-Ellie

replace the pump pump is leaking

Crokjcc: If your washer fills up and pumps waterout properly, but doesn't spin, it is most likely the "Motor Coupler". This is a plastic and rubber piece that links the motor to the transmission. It is inexpensive to replace, and a fairly easy repair.

A google for "Maytag motor coupler" might get you some more verbose instructions, but here goes.

First, unplug the washer. Getting electrocuted, while entertaining for others, is unpleasant.
Next, Remove the washer cabinet by removing the two screws at the base of the control panel, tilting the control panel up, and unclipping the 2 bronze-gold-looking spring clips. The metal cabinet should be free to pivot towards you and be moved out of the way.

Near the floor at the front of the washer you will see the motor. It is in a "sandwich" with the motor between the transmission and the pump. A number of flat spring clips and a bolt or two hold the sandwich together. Snap the clips off and remove the pump. Another couple of snaps and you should be able to slide the motor out. The broken triangle thing is part of the coupler, and the rest is still stuck on the front shaft of the transmission.

Here is a picture of a coupler. This may or may not be the one for your model, I didn't check.

J_carey, this is probably NOT your issue, since this_usually_ causes it not to spin or agitate. Yours sounds more expensive to fix.. :(

Good luck!
-ellie

it could be [motor] or 'condensur' for motor, starting to burn out or over heat, check drive belt as well for ware

sounds like several problems. sounds like your boot stem/ seal is leaking and possibly the tub bearing is rusted. I generally replace both at the same time as long as the machine is apart anyway. As for the squealing and tub slamming to a stop, that is your brake package and bearing have dried and/or rusted and need to be replaced

I hope its under warranty the bearings have gone bad they are fun:( to replace you have to take washer TOTALLY apart to replace along with the center seal total $ around 150-175 time involved 2-3 hours headache priceless plus you need special tool to get center seal out and back in

possibly not a machine fault. if drain is connected to sink plumbing, remove the drain hose and see if it pumps out into a bucket.

Troubleshooting chart-

https://machinecompanion.com/maytag-neptune-washer-not-draining/

The label should be at the back where the power goes in. The label is supposed to be not able to be removed (strong adhesive or metal and riveted. There may also be a service manual and wiring diagram in the top console. Pictures and mentions here, but no model details. You could also try emailing Maytag. https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+ensignia+heavy+duty+super+size+capacity+quiet+series+200+10+cycles You can upload pictures, but we know what the machine is because of your excellent description. After more searching it may be MDE4806AYW although it says 12 cycles? https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+%22ensignia%22+heavy+duty+super+size+capacity+quiet+series+200+10+cycles+manual ..

Help in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=Maytag+MVW7232HW0+top+load%2C+error+codes+and+condensation+on+control+panel ..