20 Most Recent Maytag MDE508DA Dryer Questions & Answers

drive belt is normally accessed from the rear of the machine or if sealed rear from underneath(bottom) the belt is normally easier to get off the drive motor pulley first . Sounds like your belt is either already broken or has come away from drive unit or drum .

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...

It will help you determine what is happening there...

Dryer Repair Squeaks, Grinding, Clicking and Knocking Noise


heatman101


eue

the seal between drum and cabinet is worn out,sorry-mike

THE BUZZER WON'T SHUT OFF ON MY MAYTAG ...

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > Appliance Repair Jul 21, 2017 - The way it works is that power from the heater goes to the motor so that the heater can't heat unless the motor is running. 1 answer · Top answer: The buzzer is not actually controlled by the timer. It's controlled by the centrifugal switch ... ..

bad start up capacitor for motor

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Misc Category. F01 is a very straight forward error and it means that your dryer has detected a short in the main relay power control board mounted to the left side wall under the top panel of the dryer. Oct 19, 2018

Our Maytag 5000 series dryer is showing an F01 error code.

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > Appliance Repair

F01 - Error Code - Dryer

Maytag https://producthelp.maytag.com > ... > Starts with F Dec 14, 2019 - Possible Solutions. Power unit down by turning off the circuit breaker(s) for one (1) minute. Power unit up by turning on the circuit . ..

most likely has hot surface ignitor, does not have free standing pilot.

what is the model number? free standing pilots have been gone for several years. Google your model number and include parts. This will give you sites that sell parts. You most likely have and hot surface ignitor.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&type=E210US1494G0&p=the+electrical+capacity+of+Maytag+MDG9700BWW%3F Then check related searches MOTOR: 1/4HP,120 volt,60 Hz,single-phase,thermally protected against overload,auto-reset. EXHAUST:Use a minimum of 4"(10.2 cm) diameter rigid aluminum or galvanized steel duct. Never use plastic,nonmetal or combustible duct. HEAT SOURCE/ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS: Electric model- 5,300 watt nichrome helix coil; 240 volt,AC,60 Hz; 30 amp fuse. Gas model-Single port burner with automatic electric ignition; 22,000 BTU/hr. 15 amp fuse. Self-adjusting valve automatically compensates for variation in gas pressure. WEIGHTS (Crated/Uncrated):

The F70 indicates a communication error code between the main control on the top left and the user interface on the front. Unplug the machine and remove the top. Check the connection on the board in the white plastic housing on the top left. Next check the connections on the board on the front.

Contact maytag repair dept! Hope this helps should be a contact number on the back!

Question edited for clarity. The wiring is here https://www.partselect.com/Models/PDET910AYW/Sections/WIRING-INFORMATION/?ModelID=177232&ModelNum=PDET910AYW&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=59105&Position=6&mfg=Maytag&Type=Dryer&Mark=6 https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+performa+pdet910ayw+wiring+diagram .. The video, may be of help

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?) Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.

Possibly... https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/High-Limit-Thermostat/WP303395/481329 Ck here too... https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Dryer/8-4-563894-/New/Maytag-Dryer-Not-Heating-MDG7600AWW Give them a call at their 800# before throwing parts at it. Best to you

The rubber boot takes up that space unless the suspension/bearing is damaged, in which case, I would have it serviced.

If the baking element stays on even when the oven is turned off or when it's set to a different temperature, the issue might be with the relay board. The relay board is responsible for sending power to the bake element when it's supposed to be on, and cutting off power when it's supposed to be off. To confirm if the relay board is the culprit, you can try the following:

1. Turn off the power to the oven at the circuit breaker.
2. Remove the back panel of the oven to access the relay board.
3. Look for any signs of damage or burning on the board.
4. Inspect the connections and wiring for any signs of damage or burning.
5. Use a multimeter to test for continuity across the contacts of the relay board that control the bake element.
6. If the continuity is present when the oven is turned off, or if the board is visibly damaged or burnt, then it's likely that the relay board needs to be replaced.

If the relay board is determined to be the issue, it's recommended to have a qualified technician replace it as working with electrical components can be dangerous.

Try unplugging it or turn off the breaker to it for 60 seconds to see if it'll reset.

If replacing the bulbs did not fix the issue, then it could be a connection issue or a faulty light switch. You can try checking the connections to the light switch and the light assembly to make sure they are secure and properly connected. You can also use a multimeter to test the switch and see if it is functioning properly. If the switch is faulty, it will need to be replaced. If you are not comfortable doing this yourself, it is best to consult a professional technician.