20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel (IWL12) - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Hi - check out this post - Code 130 - 136 all mean the same its a communication error between the sensors & the controller.

By mattnewmanha on Jun 16, 2011

I have a F&P MW512 top loader. It has developed a code 130. I have been told this is a faulty RPS. is this something I can fix at home? is there a bypass? how do I access and inspect the part?

If i understand you correctly the leds is as follows - - y - - o - r (is the same as --1--1-1), then the pumps either blocked, faulty or kaput....

Hi just read your posting.When the machine stops and starts does it beep and show an error code.This error code will be a series of lights that light up and the machine will beep.On the wash progress line of lights which lights are lit when the machine beeps,Is it the 1st and 6th or the 4th and 8th etc.Please reply with additional information and I am sure I can help you rectify this fault.Looking forward to your reply.

Hi just read your posting.Now when the lights flash is the machine beeping?If it is beeping are the lights that are flashing on the wash progress line?If they are starting from the left to right which lights are lit,is it the 1st and 5th or the 3rd and 6th etc.Please reply with additional information and i am sure I can help you.Looking forward to your reply.

Remove the 2 screws ,lift the top off the control area and check the main control area it's in a brown plastic box that unsnaps, There you will be able to see if there is any corrosion or burn marks. If so you may need to replace the control board.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry, it would be better if you re-post this onto the fridge/freezer forum- this is for washing machines so you might not get an answer- other than this one ;-0)
Good luck,
John C
PS sounds like the temperature sensor might be misbehaving like ours did - but take no notice of me!

Check Drip Dry option not switched on or for obstruction in pump chamber or outlet hose. Possibly burnt out, seized or open circuited pump.

I have a Fisher & Paykel GW712 and had same problem and fixed it today the drain pump motor had failed although it worked for 1 full cycle. when I tried to wash a second load the water would not completly clear from the machine I finally replaced the pump and now works correctly the pump is easy to install ensure machine is disconnected from power first

hello you have checked the fuse in the plug now check the fuse inside the washer power supply it's glass type make sure you use the same rated fuse beware if it blows again then theres a dead short in the washer hope it helps

regards
shaun

66. (01000001) Pressure Transducer Error [Ptx Frequency > 90 kHz]
Note: this supersedes Fault code 65 from V41 Motor controller code onwards.
The Motor Control module has received signals from the water level sensor (Ptx)
above normal frequency values.
Primary Source: Motor Control module
Action: Replace Motor Control module

I took this from the service repair manual. Hope it helps.

HI error code 66 means you have a pressure transducer out of range error.This means that the control module is faulty and needs replacing.please confirm that the error code is numbered 66. On some machines the pressure switch is seperated and sometimes the plastic tub for the switch gets clogged up and blowing through it will sometims clear this fault. Not sure about this particular machine, but you can try adjusting water level to see if it will work at a different level of water.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

pump blocked error,tilt washer against wall and remove pump from base by pushing lock tab,twist anti clockwise and it will pull out.if washer has alot of water in it i suggest bailing it out otherwise u will flood room and get a free shower urself.....it doesnt take much to stop one of those pumps

If you reset the main breaker and tripped again then you have a shorted on the motor or on the capacitor. The motor is most likely the caused of the problem. But also to consider the wire if not contact the line 1 to line 2. Need to send to repair shop to isolate the problem. Hope that it is not your motor.
Thanks for using fixya.

Sounds like you have eliminated a few possible sources of the problem, but we have to dig deeper--

Do you have some way of checking for shorts and continuity?-- Like an Ohm meter?- or a continuity checker?

YOu will need to remove the control panel, and check for a short either on the cord, or inside the control panel.
Inside the panel, the 3 wires from the power cord, attach-- Can you see the Green and then the WHite and black leads?
With the Plug out of the wall, You should get infinite ohms between the White wire and ground, as well as the Black wire and ground-- A low ohms reading indicates a short to ground-- Now we have to find that short.

Can you trace the circuit thru from Black wire, thru the controls, back to the white wire-- and can you check for shorts at points along the way?

Let me know what you find, and we'll help you further.

Mack B

If unit has self defrost then possibility of bad defrost timer ect. If unit is a manual defrost then it could possibly be a thermostat.