Magic Chef MCWC30MCG Compact Wine Cooler - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I, too, have just seen (late June 2013) the "HH" code on my Magic Chef wine cooler (and it is running too cold and I can't reset the temperature). Have you found a solution since your posting of about 1 year ago?

I suspect the cooler can only actually regulate one of those temperatures and the other one just drags along behind. Perhaps the weather is now warmer and the cooler has to keep the motor on longer to keep cool. The unregulated bottom temperature ends up cooler as a consequence. Either that or the opposite effect is doing it. The answer might be to find a 61 degree place in your house to keep the reds.

Hi Bob, did you ever get an answer to your question? I have the same problem. Thank you,

I took the screw out but the lens won't budge and I don't want to break it. how does the lens come out?

your unit needs to have a new capacitor possibly. However, it will be next to impossible to find someone who will check it out and get the right one for this unit. Unless the unit is under warranty, I would suggest trying to get the retailer to replace it at no cost to you. If under warranty, the manufacturer should make it right? if both of those avenues are not available, then I would suggest get a new unit.

help us help you What is the model number? Why do you need the manual? To troubleshoot? To operate or change settings? George

If the overload was open circuit you would not have a hot compressor. The overload activates because the compressor won't start. If there is a capacitor starter, change it. If not let it cool for at least a day then try again. If still no go, replace compressor.

If the compressor is quite hot to the touch, that usually means that there is a problem with the compressor. Could be a short or open winding, but either way you will need a new compressor.

I found the connectors corroded for both fans. The lower fan connector had one pin that was completely destroyed. I hard wired the wires together as a test and the unit is working perfect. Check the fan connectors by removing the two screws that hold the shelf in place and cafefully slide out fron the cooler. You will have to disconnect several connectors hidden in the right side of the shelf before you can completely remove it. Good Luck.

Do you hear a hum & a click? Most likely the compressor is having trouble starting.

Mr. Ray: Did you get an answer to your question? We may be having the same problem with our Magic Chef wine cooler

door not sealing ! or seal around entrance for cold air is sucking in hot air with cold air to create condensation

Mine was doing the same thing. Needed a new thermostat. Part number is 1206856 or WDF18A-L or WDF22A-L depending on where you get it. $23-$25 easy repair you can do.

apdepot.com, or johnstone supply If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

on the compressor you should have the relay and a start capacitor. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

You need to replace the Ptc unit attached to the compressor. Go to REPAIR CLINIC.COM and order the following part. 1206838 Ptc relay. They also will show you were it is located and how to replace it. Compressor tanks very rarely go bad. It is an $11.00 dollar part

to the left of compressor behind plastc cover with 1 screw will be the ptc relay on top .its got 1 wire going to it.wiggle it off to the left...go to repairclinic.com ...part# 1206838..

E3 & E4 error code means problem with the connectors for the fans to the middle separator shelf are put in the pathway of condensation. This causes them to get wet and rust.

Check the fan connectors by removing the two screws that hold the shelf in place and cafefully slide out fron the cooler. Just replaced the factory connectors with insulated bullet connectors.

Hope this helps; and just keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment.

Have a nice day and thanks for using FixYa.
Jose.

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

:
Hi!
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
It does a lot of clicking (trying to start over and over again)
If thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
I use part no ERP410 POWER START RELAY, CAPACITOR AND OVERLOAD all in one. (110 v)

If you still have trouble Go Here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
PLEASE VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL