20 Most Recent KDS K717s 17" LCD Monitor - Page 2 Questions & Answers

In the setup Menu you probably have the auto adjust enabled.
go into the setup menu and locate the screen adjustments disable the auto adjust and see if that fixes your problem, if it doesnot call the Manufacturer technical rep. and ask them, it might need repair.
good luck...

Send a mail to the admistrator so that your password will be send to tyour alternate address provided when you first set up the account.

jglendenning, If not into soldering irons, solder, meters, and electronic repair of "switch-mode-power-supplys/cold-cathode-fluorescent-lamp ballast-circuits" then trade for new unit! Retrevo .com lists K717s as time to retire unit. Before you do anything check out the longer and more useful video clips at YOUTUBE that deal with "lcd monitor disassembly" and "lcd monitor repair" FYI so you at least know what is inside a typical desktop CCFL back-lit LCD monitor. 99% use same basic design and principle of operation no matter what brand of unit you have or will purchase in future!!! Hope this helped some. 12fixlouie

Hi , i'm afraid the glass sandwich has broken ( 2 sheets of glass with the liquid between them ) and there is no repair possible .
L.C.D. =liquid crystal display

Try looking here or local computer repair shop, it is used a lot on HP/COMPAQ laptop.
http://www.google.com/products?rlz=1T4GGIH_enUS282US283&q=KDS+K717s+power+adapter&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=CC_zS_ePEJCetgPvzqmEDA&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CCUQrQQwAA

http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums

If you decide to DIY, please read below so you will know what to look for:
Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

http://www.badcaps.net

Here are a couple of WEB sites that show you the pin connections for the video D Sub connector :-
http://pinouts.ru/Video/VGA15_pinout.shtml
http://www.theavguide.co.uk/view_page.php?page=18

Please press the f8 key on restarting the system on the gateway logo and see if you are able to reach the windows advanced menu screen that shows the safe mode option.
if yes please selct safe mode and then please restore the system to the earliest back date maybe 2-3 days back.

lick Start click allprograms select accessories click system tools and then system restore, use the option restore my computer to an earlier time and you need to clik on the date which is bold in color i mean a back date then hit next to proceed.
wait till it restart and completes the system restore

The same problem happend on mine it was ac power converter box had to replace it twice but its been working for 3 years now note light was on both times

first, how long have you had it. if it has intergrated power supply,(does not have a big square box made onto the power cord) nine time out of ten your power converter/supply is going or is bad. return for a replacement. to the manufactuer not the store. they should replace it free of charge, if their honest. samsung has some models with this same problem.

Be very careful if you open it up; this could void your warantee. Find out your warantee specifications.

Open it up and souder these wires to their designated positions. YOU MUST USE A HEAT SINK. Aligator clips work fine. Please do not touch any capacitors; they hold a lot of electricity.

Yup, that's correct. The capacitors are very cheaply made. I recommend replacing them all if applicable. Before replacing them you must allow the capacitors to discharge. You can just unplug the monitor for a few days. A manual way is possible. I will explain that in the lower portion of this post.

Remove the screws on the bottom edge on the screen. When the bezel screws are out place your fingers on the top edge on the bezel and press down towards the desk/table. The bezel should slide down and off almost like a PC side panel.

Remove the screws from the LCD pane and place masking tape around the edges of the LCD panel. These edges are crudely cut and are razor sharp.

Once taped pull the panel upward slowly. Note the three cables connecting the panel to the metal box behind it. These cables are the sync/video and CCFL cables. 5 connectors in total must be carefully removed with needle nose pliers.

Once the panel is removed, remove the screws from the metal box housing the power converter and LCD driver. Inside are two separate boards. They are connected on the edge via a small socket/pin connector. Remove the screws holding the power converter PCB. (The one that connects to the power plug port.) (I must stress the importance as stated before. DO NOT remove anything until you allow ample time for capacitor charge to deplete. Or have discharged them manually.) Using an analog (Needle meter not digital) Volt meter set it to 50V or close to. Place both prongs on the corresponding pole of the capacitor. (One capacitor at a time) You will see the voltage spike then slowly decline. Once the current is at zero move on to the other capacitors.

The bad capacitors will have brownish matter oozing out. Use your discretion to replace the faulty capacitors. I'd suggest replacing them all. Before removing them note their polarity and capacitance.

Pictures:

Re-boot your computer again and let it fully boot up. Volume control may come back if not go into control panel and into sound properties and activate the sound icon in task bar

Trouble at the logic board.

When it goes blank again take a flashlight and shine it directly into the screen from the front. If you can see the image with the flashlight and not when you take it off it's a problem in the monitors back-light. If that's not the issue I would recommend new driver software for both the monitor and your graphic card.

All VGA connectors use the same pinout. Here's a link that shows you the VGA Pinout,

http://www.interfacebus.com/Design_VGA_PinOuts.html

More monitor pinouts,

http://www.montest.com/technote.html

power converter/supply bad defect contact manufactuer and ask for warrenty replacement

Front and back of most LCDs shap together. Must be gently pryed apart.
Some KDS LCDs that have screws on the edge need to slide the front cover up a half inch to release from the back cover.
Monitor Mike

This is a common problem across many monitors, unfortunately. The problem stems from one of two things, typically.

Itis either the Power Inverter board (Inverter Mirage Electronics AD-1700Rev:F 200-000-170DTL1 VERSION:A) or a weak or dying backlight.

Ifyour monitor comes on for a few seconds then you can test the backlight byusing the controls to get into the backlight brightnes settings on theOSD and turning it WAY down.

If that doesn't work or if it won't come on at all then it islikely bad capacitors on the Power board mentioned above. If you feeladventurous and know how to solder then you might be able to fix thisyourself. You need to be careful however because you are dealing withhigh voltage in there and capacitors CAN hold a charge long after youhave unplugged the unit. You can read more about this power board aswell as how to replace the bad caps HERE.

Ifthat's not for you then I would recommend taking it to a local TV shopfor them to fix. The parts shouldn't be more than $20, but labor can beexpensive.