20 Most Recent Lanzar VIBE266 Car Audio Amplifier - Page 2 Questions & Answers

no idea, but i think you should leave the subs the right way in the box

Please write more how you have made connections. I need schemtaics to help you.

If the amplifier goes into protect when there are no speaker wires connected to the amp, the amp is likely defective. The most likely culprit is shorted output transistors. If it's new, return it to the place of purchase for repair/replacement.

It sounds like it may be oscillating. This can be caused by a broken ground in the signal line. You need to check the RCA shield on the head unit.You'll need an ohm meter. The following page has more details. If the head unit isn't damaged, the shield ground could be open in the amplifier.

Temporary Shield Repair

Hi,

Based on your post/description, pls try:
1. running the amp's power without the capacitor;
2. manually trigger the amp with the head unit off. Run it an determine if the backfiring still will occur (even with the head unit off);
3. temporarily interchange the left/right wiring;
4. temporarily interchange the + and - speaker wires;
5. run the amp normally trioggered by the headunit but remove the RCA connectors towards the amp.

If your concern has not been corrected or diagnosed which is at fault (wiring, amp, source) after completion of the above procedures, the amp may require an internal look and see.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FIXYA.

It's unlikely that anyone will have a schematic for this amp. Lanzar has refused to provide them in the past. What 'fried' in the amp?

Pulling to much power? Do you mean clipping? When an amp is over powered (gains are to high) a amp will distort much like a deck destorts at high volumes and it will sound horrible. Make sure your setup is to within specificatons of the amp. (impediance and such)

Caps are NEVER a solution to ANYTHING in a car audio system. If your car is lacking in power, you need a high output alt. All caps do is mask the problem until eventually your car's charging system is toast. Check this out: http://www.techlore.com/article/14696/

Check your connections on your speakers themselves, also check your connections of the speaker wire to your amp and also check for any cuts or damage throughout your wiring as this my be caused by the + and - wires that touch

You answered your own question. Running a 1 ohm load on a amp (not that great a amp to begin with) has probably resulted in shorted output transistors. Hence the always lit protection LEDs. Only a repair shop can remedy this.

Check your speaker load. It probably should be 4 ohms per channel. Also, if you are bridging then you must double your ohms load. It may be that your old amp could tolerate a lower impedence (ohms load) than the new amp. Do this now so you don't fry your amp. Good luck.

Depends entirely on the output impedance of the amplifier and of course if it matches your loudspeakers.

Your 8ohm channel is fried why happened was you ran 2 12s in an 8ohm load and turned it down to 2ohms the speakers was pulling all the power and that made it over heat and when it over heated it fried you're amp. It ain't no good you can't fix that

Bad connection inside either on a connection or on the PCB itself.

When an amplifier causes trouble or otherwise stops working, it is necessary to eliminate external possibilities such as a short circuited output. If nothing external is causing the problem, unless you have a good friend who is an electronics engineer, it will be a repair shop task...

Check your fuses. Check to see if any of the wires are loose. Could be a blown fuse or loose wire. Possibly the following link might be of interest: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMbsieEj0UM