20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DD603H W Built-in Dishwasher - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Not sure if you have fixed this problem. Please post a comment and I will try to provide a solution.

You may be correct. The lid seal (gasket) must have detached from the tub.

You can check
http://www.stokes-aus.com.au/StokesAP/Manufacturer_Info/FP/DISHWASHERS/599084%20Dishdrawer-Version%203%20%20eg%20%20DD603%20etc.pdf

page 14 item 8 looks like the part you have to replace. The procedure to replace it might be slightly difficult if you are not used to repairing this dishwasher. You have to make sure the two actuators on each side and the corresponding motors are aligned properly and work in unison so that the seal engages and disengages equally on both sides.

There arent any instructions, but it is pretty easy. Just dive on in. The front panels come off by removing the 2 pins securing each of them (one iether side) and pulling them in a downward and out motion. The LCD facade's come off by sliding them to the left and giving a bit of a lift. The rest is pretty much swapping the bits over and reversing the dissasembly prosedure =)

if F code is F4 and the fast light is one with the continual beeping you have a faulty tempurature sensor or element. Your unit will need to be serviced

I have a single drawer F&P dishwasher. This morning a safety switch trigged. This afternoon when I went to use the dishwasher found that it had no power. There are no lights and there was a smell of something burning. The power outlet has power. Can you help?

Take a clean damp cloth and wipe the touch swithes and the side and top edges of the dishwasher drawer.

please post a comment to report back if anything changed. Will try to solve it for you.

Hi,aside from any obstruction is thet DishDrawer® square and level?. Is the DishDrawer® fastened securely to the cabinetry to prevent flex or movement? If not, the square geometry this appliance requires with affect drawer performance when opening and closing.
This is the most common cause for your problem. I'm not 100% sure, but it is something to take into consideration. Just a thought.

f 4 means there is a faulty temperature sensor or heating element.

Usually this needs replacement of the heating element or the controller as the temperature .

This means the flood switch at the base of the dishwasher has turned on.
The usual cause is that moisture has collected at the base. Extend out the bottom drawer as much as possible and use towels and hair dryer to dry out the base. Make sure the mains power to the unit is turned off.

If this does not stop the problem then the bottom drawer may have to be pulled out to dry out the whole base.

The moisture can get there either because the correct detergent was not used (too much foam) or water from the hoses at the back is leaking. Could be a crack or a kink in the hose or the actuator arm holding the hoses is broken and the hoses are getting crushed.
Hope this helps.

I am assuming you are experiencing this problem in one of the drawers of the dishwasher.

It might be simply some hard waste particle stuck in the rotor chamber.

Follow the instructions in the user guide to clean the filter plate and remove the rotor lock mechanism. Once you do this you can pull the rotor out and clean the chamber. Might also be a good idea to take the drain filter out as well and clean it. There is a small channel from the drain sump to the rotor chamber. Use a thin stiff wire to clean any hard particles stuck in this channel.

Put the rotor and the other parts back and you might be ok. If not, then you will have to replace the rotor if it is still noisy. You can do this yourself - the part no. is 5258884 and might cost around $50 depending on where you are.

Hope this helps.

i think you have to press the key/ lock button until the symbol disappears. You will find the exact button for your model in your owners manual.

Change your detergent, high foaming detergents leak through the overflow, highly unlikely that both drawers developed a leak at the same time.

Hi,
Have you tried turning it off and on at the power point?
Mat

Depends on Whether or Not you had the unit Professionally installed, The Drain Hoses are Designed to Stay their extra long Length, they act as a u-tube system using the center of gravity to help drain the unit, if you've cut them to short the water simply is unable to go up the lines because the drain pump is not strong enough.

When you pull out the drawer, pay attention to the bottom near the bottom front panel, you will see a little tab. this tab is at both sides of the drawer, press these tabs in and pull the drawer further a bit, you can see the tub move out a little further. Now lift the tube up and out ot the rails. Push the rail inside the dishwasher, then you will be able to put the drawer down on the floor. Don't try to pull the tube out so much since hoses are under the tube has a limited length.

It depends on how bad the wear is. You can trim the roughness off the impellor with a craft knife. Also check the stator impellor housing for damage as well and try to flatten or scrape off any bits of roughness where it shouldnt be. Make sure the motor impellor is pressed firmly together before re-fitting to the stator.

Hope this helps

I've had the same problems and it's common with these models. Unfortunately the manufacturer won't cover because it's been 2 years. This is a problem that you'll need a technician to come out and replace the "flap" or check for a leak in the casing by removing your bottom drawer and looking inside. I would place a paper towel and see if it gets wet, then you know that there's a leak.

Unit is in flood protection mode (caused by leak), can be cleared by removing bottom draw and drying the residual water around and under the Rfi/flood sensor board. This problem is usually caused by iether the support that suspends the wiring and hoses behind the draw and tucks them out of the way when you open and close it snapping and jamming between the tub and the lid or the actuators that close the lid wearing out. Both parts on both draws can (and should) be replaced even if it is only one that has caused the fault as they are all problematic. Replacement parts have been modified to be alot more reliable and will need to be retrofitted. Unless the unit is of the later issue which already has these parts fitted from factory, (you can tell if it has by the link supports being a pivoting stainless steel type instead of white plastic, and the lid motors being black instead of a creamy colour) in which case you have probably stacked something too high which stopped the lid from closing properly causing the leak and you have already solved this by drying the base! Phew!
Always remember to unplug you appliance if you are having a tinker.

Hope this helps

Disconnect the power to the unit for at least 15 minutes to see if you can "reset" the unit.

Perhaps you need to find out the source of the problem. The F1 code is due to the flood switch at the base of the housing getting triggered by water collecting. You could have a cracked hose or broken actuator arm (this is piece of plastic at the back of the drawer that holds the wires and hoses) Moisture can get to the flood switch if foaming occurs due to incorrect detergent powder being used.

Good luck