Fisher and Paykel DE08 Gas Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

E you haveThere is relay switch on the frame. Try bypassing it and see if it works. They are pretty cheap but essential. I assume you have checked wiring at connections and breakers.

The switch probably just needs to be adjusted. There are contacts inside the switch, and over time they can shift position. You can either repair the switch yourself, replace it, or have a professional replace it.

If you attempt to repair the switch, unplug the dryer first and then remove the rear panel to get at the switch. Disconnect it and then test it with a multimeter, then take it apart, adjust the contacts, and test it again until you get it to change state when you activate it.

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...
It will help you determine what is happening there...

Dryer Repair Squeaks, Grinding, Clicking and Knocking Noise
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4416566-dryer_repair_squeaks_grinding_clicking

heatman101

Asker's Testimonial " This should give me an ida of what to look for once I open er up " -

Hi,
The motor is going bad...
There can be many reasons why your dryer will not turn...

This tip that I wrote will help you to figure out what is happening...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4422207-dryer_repair_dryer_not_turning

Dryer Repair ? The dryer will not start
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4460438-dryer_repair_dryer_will_not_start


heatman101

they should be on a tensioner that automatically tightens check the spring on the tensioner if it is weak replace it they usually last the life of most dryers however you have a commercial one so Lord only knows how many hours a day it runs

put back in place and the least costly is to put a screw in to the handle that will also screw into the metal or go to local parts store with your model# so they can order you one in and make sure you use a short enough screw that it will not go throught the door

To install a a belt you will need a puddy knife a star screwdriver 1/4 or 5/16 nut driver and a good memery.First you must remove the lint screen then remove the 2 screws after that there are 2 clips on the two corners push your puddy knife in there till you feel the clips.Then push forward and lift the top at the same time it should lift.After that you will need a 1/4 inch nut driver or 5/16 not sure.The screws will be on the left and right inside front panel the whole front panel then should come off by lifting and pulling towards you aftet that you need to look under to remember how the old belt is on the idler wheel.Then you install new belt and go backward on instructions good luck :)

turn your breaker off the on

the clank and thud may have been the bracket with the wheel on it hthat keeps the belt tight. when you shut the door and push the start button what happens?

You may have bad timer or bad motor windings ? does it shut off after 20 minutes and can u start it back up right away? if not start fast then bad motor windings. try using a diff dry setting and see if it does same thing you may need to check the cycling thermostat too

cycling thermosta

The timer: Located in the control console of the dryer the timer consists of a small motor connected to a series of gears that rotate cams, which turn electric contacts off and on inside the timer. The timer contacts control the dryer motor as well as the heat circuit and the timer motor itself. A defective timer motor or a defect in the timer's electrical contacts can cause the timer motor to fail and the timer will need to be replaced. The contacts can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made when the dryer is unplugged. Another test u can do is observe by eyesight and see does the timer advance or is it stuck on one cycle? 1. On gas and electric dryers that have an "Auto Dry" cycle, the cycling thermostat is often used to advance the timer as well regulate the drum temperature. Essentially, thermostat will alternately turn on the heat source or the timer motor when the temperature has been satisfied. To check this thermostat, you will have to check for power to the timer motor with a multi-meter, during a cycle. This is a live voltage test and caution should be used. 2. Some dryers will use a cool down thermostat to tumble the clothes without heat, at the end of the dry cycle. Power is routed through this thermostat to the drive motor to keep it running until the drum temperature has dropped to a specific temperature. If this thermostat fails it can cause the drum to turn indefinitely or until the door is opened. You can check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made with the power removed from the dryer. Lastly check the moister sensor for OHMS according to ur schematic as it must show a certain amount of ohms as per ur unit. When unit has been on short while Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhVUEhngZMg

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity it should show OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale at 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200) ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to create a fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater. Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?) Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor. GOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMP7BW1lLs4

Dryer runs then shuts down wont start up for an hour: or 20 minutes Bad motor windings also check for a b ad cycling thermostat

DRYER MAKES NOISES. A loose or worn BELT can make funny noises Or the idler pulley that puts tension on the dryer drum drive belt could be worn out. If the pulley is bad we recommend also replacing the belt. The glides on drum worn and making metal to metal contact. The drum slides or glides support the front of the drum. As the drum rotates over the years, the glides wear out and then the dryer makes noise. Replace all of the glides as a set if they are worn out. CHECK FOR LOOSE BELLOES inside the drum Sometimes an item can get stuck inbetween the drum and the housing and scrape and grind making funny noises, things like coins, bra wire, nails, hair pins, etc sometimes u can just remove the cabinet and observe by turning the drum by hand or looking for scratch or scrape marks on housing. The blower: Clumps of lint, socks, and other small articles of clothing can get past the lint filter and into the blower wheel. If the dryer makes noise, and the noise seems to be at a very fast pace, there might be something caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve might be worn out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If this happens, replace the blower wheel. The bearings: The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. If the dryer makes noise this bearing might be worn out. Replace the bearing if it is worn out. Do not lubricate the bearing, the lubrication will attract lint and dirt and accelerate the wearing process. The bearings TEST by moving drum by hand u may be able to feel loose or rough movement. And listen to sounds when turning it. The drum rollers or castors: It is very common for dryer drum rollers to wear out. If the dryer makes noise, particularly a loud rumbling noise, one or more of the rollers may be worn out. After removing the drum from the dryer, inspect the rollers. Check for cracks, dryness, or damage and not engaging drum properly. Sometimes u can use high density LITHIUM BASE gear grease to re oil/grease them. GOD IS GOOD !!!!

ELECTRICDryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Checkyour venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuityit should showOHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defectiveor has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter(VOM)set to the RX1 scaleat 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200)ohms.If the reading is higherohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,OR?you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposedto be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to createafire but ifthe motor is not running,andthe heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater. Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In somedryer'sthecontrol panel relies on athermistorrather than aCYCLING thermostatto regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when thethermistorindicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drumthis is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?) Lastly check your moister sensor.( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shutdown early and clothesare still wet. Test with a meterat room temperatureand it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run timein the automatic moisture sensing cyclebut it will not affect the heatingof the dryer or the timed cycle.Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor. GOD IS So GOOD !!!!AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

D Floyd Kolb--
Our dryer only makes the knocking sound when it's going in the reverse direction. Would you be able to narrow down the cause from this info? I've removed the lint filter and cleaned/tightened. But nothing has changed.

Thanks!

Check the filters are clean and that the air ducts are not blocked. The sensors pick up temperature change and any restrictions will cause the machine to cycle on or off at the wrong times. Its possible the sensor itself is faulty.

7 Adjust the display to read correctly on an inverted panel: ?? For DE7060M and DE5060M press and hold the 'Keylock' and 'Heavy' buttons for three seconds. ??

What model number? That will help.