20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel E522BRX Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers


Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer


Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101
...,

Fisher and... | Answered on Oct 18, 2010


Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

Fisher and... | Answered on Oct 08, 2010


The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.



The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a

Fisher and... | Answered on Sep 29, 2010


Turn the Fridge OFF at the power socket, wait 10 seconds and turn it back On. If still beeping, You will need a Service Technician to assist with this.

See the site below for more help or to schedule a tech visit.

Fisher and... | Answered on Mar 27, 2020


Try blowing compressed air up the drain tube.

Fisher and... | Answered on Jan 04, 2020


F20 does not stand for 20 degrees Fahrenheit you pleb. It is a fault code. Your fridge probably beeps 20 time when you open the door and then stops. To fix is simple and takes 5 mins. Remove the top left hand hinge cover and you will find a broken wire. Just switch off the fridge and then connect the wires together with a auto12v type connecter or solder it and use shrink tube. Switch the fridge back on and hay presto, you can fill your fridge to the max 3 times over with the money you just saved. It will happen again as the wiring loom they fit is well and not flexible. Use silicone insulated wire from J-car or similar and replace from the plug and reconnect inside the door where the wires don\'t bend. Hope this helps you.

Fisher and... | Answered on Oct 27, 2019


HEY!!!!! If your breaker is tripping it means you have a short circuit - a serious safety issue.
Unless you are a qualified electrical tech, for safety reasons refer this one to a pro.

Fisher and... | Answered on Oct 18, 2019


make sure it is totally defrosted before attempting to remove it they can be a little awkward, usually there is some kind of retainer to keep the collection grill in place if not then you need to been it outwards to reach the element,before you do that disconnect the element and test it with a multimeter to make sure it needs replacing

Fisher and... | Answered on Mar 28, 2019

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