Nikon D50 Digital Camera with 18-55mm Lens - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

This doesn't sound like something you can fix yourself....It's time to take to a camera repair expert.

Thats format, you need to reset your whit balance go to menu then white balance then set to white

You must take it or send it to Nikon it sounds like the computer went crazy and has to be calibrated you cant fix it yourself .

Contact Nikon tech support at www.nikon.com to see what they recommend. I don't think the warranty covers abuse such as dropping the camera so you may be in for an expensive repair. However, he Nikon techs may be able to suggest something that might help you avoid that expense.

I think if you don't have the repair manual and don't have the skills to repair electronic equipment, you won't be able to repair this camera. (I do have a D50 repair manual) Yu do have to remove to many parts to come to the switch, to look if anything has broken, or only oxidation is the problem. Better contact the Nikon repair canter and ask what it will cost you. Then decide if you want to go on with this camera or buy a new one. (if you own an AF lens without build in motor, go of a D90, D7000, D7100) If you have lenses all wit guid in motor, you can choose any Nikon you like. Cold be a cheap as 300 dollar. (NEW)

Make sure Image Review is set in Custom Settings. See page 90 of the manual: http://www.fixya.com/support/p418-nikon_d50_digital_camera_with_18_55mm/usermanual-D690EED-pdf

use it anyway

Have you tried a different card?

r27 is not an error code. the camera is telling you that you can take 27 photos (app) before the camera's internal memory is full and it has to stop and write data to the SD card. This is a normal function of this camera.If the camera will not fire, check to make sure that there is a SD card inserted. If not, set the camera menu so it will fire without a card. Also check to make sure there are no plastic bits from the broken lens jamming the shutter or mirror. Also, try pressing in the reset button on the bottom of the camera.

Yes the camera in the AUTO setting will make all necessary adjustments on it's own.

Look at your memory card. SD and SDHC cards have a slide switch along one edge. The position farthest from the metal contacts locks the card, protecting it from writes. The position nearest the contacts unlocks the card.

Well if you charge for 24 hours and wait about 2 minuts try it then but if it doesnt get a new camra

The imaging board is one of the two boards on the bottom of the camera. however, black images are usually a result of a bad image sensor itself (the 'CCD'), and the cost to replace that is far more than what your camera is now worth (if it is even still available)

This means that there is a alignment issue as the auto focus seems out of setting. This can be due to damage on the settings or a possible shift in the lens setting. This is due to a damage on the lens setting or a jammed motor drive. You will need some expertise to remove and check or reset the lens settings. If not take consensus as a false move can do more harm. need to remove the camera and the auto focus in the lens hood to test the motor drive, movement and action.

The "r10" message in the viewfinder is NOT an error code. The "r" stands for "remainder" and the "10" is the value. Together, it tells you how many more photos the camera's built in, high speed memory buffer can hold BEFORE the shutter will be stopped - so that the pictures in this memory can be transferred to the removable memory card. The process will take a few seconds or more - depending on the speed of the memory card you provided in the camera. If you pay attention to the the "r" number, while taking photos is rapid succession, after each picture - the number will decrease by one. When it reaches 0, you can no longer take additional pictures. During this time - the camera is moving the pictures to the memory card. When done, the "r" number will be high again, and the shutter will operate again.

The auto focus motor will make some noise it is turning to advance or retract the focus mechanism, and is normal. The camera requires sufficient contrast to obtain focus. Most of the time, a well lit subject will provide this. If you are zoomed in on a rather featureless subject - such as a clear or overcast sky, solid color flat wall, etc., where there is a lack of contrasting objects in the viewfinder, the camera can not detect an "edge" on any object; so it attempts to focus over the entire range of the lens to find it. If it can't, it prevents the shutter from releasing.

There is also a minimum distance that the lens will focus, too. If you are trying to zoom in on a close object, the lens may not be able to do it. In this case: either back away, zoom out - or both. If you need to get close to objects, you should consider buying "Macro" lenses. Nikon brand lenses that do this type of photography, oddly are called "Micro" lenses instead.

I hope this helps. Good luck!

Everything is repairable, it just depends on how you feel about the cost to repair it vs the residual value remaining in it.

You best bet is to return it to Nikon for evaluation. A factory trained Nikon tech will inspect it and provide a quote for repair. It will be up to you to decide whether it is worth fixing or replacing. After you send it in, look at the prices for new cameras - you may even wish to check ebay or craigslist for deals on used Nikon D50 (or newer) in good condition with low shutter actuation counts. Heck, you can even do that now if you want. I see ebay has this camera for under $300.

Good luck!

Hey redfoxbrenda,
The error message you are getting means the aperture ring is not locked to the smallest aperture setting, and by this I don't mean set to the smallest aperture the lens must have the ability to be locked to the smallest aperture. It is unlikely that the problem is in the camera body. Some older lenses are just not fully compatible with the newer camera bodies, but if this is the case you should still be able to use the lens in manual and aperture priority mode but with limited capabilities. I hope this helps!

Sincerely,
Allan
Go Ahead. Use Us.

That's possible. First do not panic! It is possible to recover your pictures if you take care. Take the card from the camera (powered off) and if it has a "write protect" tab then lock it now. Do not try and write anything to the card or you risk causing more problems.

take a try this recovery program called Wondershare Photo Recovery, a picture recovery tool which can recover deleted or formatted photos, videos and music. It may help with your Nikon camera. Get this program here,
Download Windows version
Download Mac version

The free trial version allows you to scan and preview the found photos, after they are found you need to pay to perform full recovery.

How to Do? Take the memory card out of your camera and connect to the computer(with this software installed) and start the scan process.

You should take care - before the deleted items are recovered, please don't save more files to the camera(SD card) where those data located in case they are overwritten. Good luck!

Hi,possibly your camera has aperture control mechanism damaged, if so, has to change it.
Best reggards

here is where to find the settings
press MENU button
select Shooting Menu (camera icon)
select Optimize Image
select Custom
the color mode is here. mode 1 is standard RGB
mode 11 is Adobe RGB
mode 111 is for custom color settings, it allows you to increase/decrease a number of settings relative to color.
once you make a change be sure to press the "done" button or your changes will be lost...