A possible fault that is consistent with your symptoms is that the water level sensing is confused. This is usually a column of water in a plastic tube bearing on a diaphragm switch which operates when the weight of water is sufficient to trip it.
The water level is adjusted by a dial which alters the pre-loading on the switch, meaning it needs a bigger or lesser column of water to trip it. If there is a leak in the tube, that would account for the water level trying to cycle. Any water underneath the machine? If so it is a good indicator that is the right track. If not it still may be that fault, but the leaking water is just not making it to the floor.
It is normal that the program suspends for filling, and it will not give rise to an error. Also normal is flow through the detergent drawer whenever there is a fill cycle. What is not normal is the repeated fill cycles.
Also investigate the actual switch associated with the level sensing. It might have bad contacts.
Please post what you eventually find the fault to be. Helps everyone, especially those trying to diagnose at a distance.
How old? warranty? Owner's manual, Troubleshooting may help. Contact Manufacturers Customer service. If you are nice, they usually are helpful.
It's possible something is caught on the edge of the drum and overloading the motor. Usually, the motor has an overload switch which will cause it to shut down to prevent burn out.
I would suggest that the drum is out of alignment because the main bearings have failed, or the drum shaft has collapsed due nto corrosion.
Spin the drum by hand, and listen for any noise, there should not be any, and see if the drum rotates centrally in relation to the outer drum
It's a safety feature that doesn't allow the machine to spin when there's still water in the tub. The drain pump has probably failed and you would need to replace it (there are some good places online where you can buy appliances spare parts). Try to set your machine on a 'Drain' cycle and see if the pump works.
This video will show you how to keep your soap draw clear
and how to service the parts
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Hoover washing machine This video will show you how to keep your soap draw clear
and how to service the parts
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In the drawer where the conditioner goes there is normally a tube with a cover over it, if this tube is blocked or the cover is not fitted correctly i.e. pressed on enough the conditioner will not siphon out when it should and you will end up with a compartment full of water.
I have a hoover optima 1400AAA, it began to give trouble with programs, 40 degrees washed at 80 degrees, would not spin or empty, etc, called in a hoover repair man who cost me 120euros to remove the program knob and spray the contacts with Servisol super 10 switch cleaning lubricant, apart from the fact that I am still furious, everyone who has a hoover washing machine should know this.
Many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter- so many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
If you have checked that the hot and cold water taps are turned on fully and the hoses are not kinked or squashed at the back, it is worth while checking both the hot and cold water inlet filters. Turn the taps off and remove both hoses at the washer end. Inside each inlet port there is normally a little filter which should just slide out. Clean if necessary and replace each one and the hoses. If after turning the taps back on there is no improvement, the problem is symptomatic of a malfunctioning hot or cold water control valve. Sorry but it needs a service call and a check that it isn't the control PCB ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck,
John C
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
No promises but certainly try this!
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
This may not be as simple an issue as you think. Repeated problems with marks on garments are often the symptom of a problem with the machine that goes beyond cleaning. The best cleaning advice I can give is that you can use a neat bleach on the rubbers and any surfaces that appear to need it, I know you have stated that you already did this, but did you leave the bleach on overnight? Often, black m o u l d will form on the rubber seal between the drum and the chassis and you will find brushing neat bleach onto thease and leaving overnight will probably remove or greatly reduce them. Another excellent tip is to set the machine to the hottest wash (usually 90 degrees) and throw 3 DISHWASHER tablets into the drum.
Washing machine powder is usually "Biological" which means that there is bacteria in the powder which "eats" your stains. Sometimes this can build up. Dishwasher tablets attack bacteria and will help to clean the machine. Finally, you might want to try a propriatary solution like CALGON.
Turning to my more serious concerns now:
Often, marks such as you describe can be the result of clothing carching between the inner drum (The metal bit that spins) and the outer drum. The problem here is that such a problem is usually because the bearings in the drum are failing and allowing it to "flop about" trapping garments.
To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.
The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. If the bearings are bad enough to allow clothes to get trapped and marked then other symptoms will typically include:
A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and or hitting the outer drum)
You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins
The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open
A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is the result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.
Now, NONE of this may be a problem and the cleaning advice I have provided may be all you need, but I'd rather you had a full explanation of the possibilities.
If the bearings have failed, I'm sorry to say that this is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.
To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But its a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.
