Top 20 U-Line Echelon Series 2075DWRRSS Refrigerator Drawer w/ Three Piece Organizing System: Stainless Ste... Questions & Answers

I believe most compressors use a self resetting thermal switch which reset when the temperature returns to normal. It could be bad. If you have access to a volt meter you can verify you have voltage at the terminals of the compressor, work backwards from there.

Can you get hold of a thermistor?

replace the thermister

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Leo Ponder
imufo2
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ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

Sounds like you have found the source of your problem. Yes,tighten all wires and wrap them with a zip tie.

The doors should be proper close.If the unit is remaining open due to black plastic kick screen at floor level , then it can cause the leaking.But its rare that black plastic kick screen at floor level is causing the leak.But still inspect that black plastic kick screen area and see if any inside air is loosing/ leaking from there.--------- Other possibility can be vent clogged in the unit, causing the water to leak inside instead or drain the water from drain line.--------- In that case try one thing.Try manual defrost procedure and see if that helps:---

The manual defrost reset procedure is as follows : ----
First unplug the unit from main power outlet. Then empty whole unit completely. Then keep both the doors open. Wait for 24 hours. All the ice collected on the coils and in the freezer section will get melted. Clean the water from the sections. Then Connect the power cord of the unit to main power outlet after 24 hours/.Then set the temperature to normal setting. Then check.-------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Hi! It sounds as if, after you followed everything recommend in the Owners Manual and it still doesn't work, than either one of the relay circuits to the compressor or the compressor itself, has failed. As far as troubleshooting this problem is concerned, it's a process of elimination. Check the circuits first with a multimeter. If you have power on the incoming side of the relay circuit, but none on the outgoing side to the compressor - it's a circuit problem. If you have power on both sides, then but the compressor fails to turn ON, it's the compressor.

U-Line has discontinued this model, but parts are still available thru one of their service centers around the country.

Below is a link to there Customer Service Contact page. There you can locate a service center near you.

http://www.u-line.com/customer/contact.cfm

Hope this helped you. Please let me know. Thanks.

What model do you have?

Hi
Frost in u-line drawer dwrr models happens because of 3 things. The most common is that the drawer wasnt sealing properly. At the ends of the slides you see a white plastic end. This is called door closers. Remove your drawers,Unplug the top drawer. Then remove the closers on all slides. Take a small screw driver then push on the top of the slide. You should see a piece of the closers. While pushing down pull the ends out.You see the hook and spring, sometimes the hooks get off track and keep the drawer from closing. By keeping them out this should help. Also if you have vegetables keep them in sealed containers. The 3rd thing is you have the display set at 34 and this will cause the unit to run 100% of the time. Recomend 36 degrees.

You need to drill out the rivets on the bottom of the drawer then slide the stainless sleeve up and out. Then you need to remove the 2 rivets on the middle part inside the gasket. Once you drill them out the insulation goes downward to remove. Then you will see the excess for the harness. Replace the rivets with flat head screws.

Check with your local appliance repair shop. They may have what you need out back or know where you find the part you need. They might even have after market parts cheaper.

I would think it would matter if board isn’t same as old one.

Put it in the off position. Turn the knob to the right. If the refrigerator comes on then continue to turn the knob to the right until you get to the temperature you want.The more you turn to then right colder it should be. Turning it back makes it warmer.

Since you did not mention what make it is . Its usually dirt in your door seal causing your refridgirator to understand its not closed since its not sealing properly . clean the door seals and try . Or there is a technical glitch in electrical system and you need a repairman . Also there is usually a way to disable the alarm and you need to check your user manual for that to disable it ill its fixed

ICE CUBES IN ICE MAKER HAVE LIKLEY SHRUNK AND ARE NOW JAMMED IN ICE MAKER INSTEAD OF FALLING OUT CHECK THE ICE MAKER FOR JAMMED CUBE

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810. The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. Read more: http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE" Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To Fix

there must be a glazier business in the town to repair windows etc so go there with the length and width measurements and the thickness should be no less than 1/4 " or 6 mm to carry the shelf load as the shop for a recommended glass thickness but I would not go under 6 mm and make sure that the edges are sander to get rid of sharp edges

Check circuit breaker/fuse in back of refrigerator usually located in the rear of the frige behind the panel where the electrical cord disappears.

could be out of gas.could also be a bad evaporator (inside ) fan.is the back wall of the freezer icy and everything else warm

Hi Liz, I am wondering what motor you hear? I think you might hear the condenser fan motor if anything. The two things that I have seen fail on u-line products are condenser fan motors and/or cold controls. Not much to the unit at all. So I am going to assume you hear the fan motor in question, I would check voltage to the compressor and see why it not running first. Get back to me when you now more information and I can help you more. Good Luck I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249