Top 20 Reddy R60A Utility Heater - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Are you sure there is not water in the tank? Fuel pressure should almost never need adjusted.

Yes diesel can be used in torpedo heaters, but you should only use #1 diesel or #1 fuel oil or #1 kerosene. #2 fuels are dirty and will crud up the heater faster. The other problem with diesel fuel is that it gels at very cold temperature. Anti-gel additives are available.

This sounds as if it is a problem with either a partial fuel blockage or a low air pump pressure. Low air pump pressure could be caused by cracked or damaged air line from compressor to burner head, or the plastic end that holds the air filters has a hair line crack, letting the pressure away. You may need to inspect thwe plastic end under a bright lame and flex it between youe fingers and thunbs to see the damage, look around the outside, across the middle and near the bolt holes and adjuster. Damage to the nozzle housing or the rubber nozzle seal , letting air into the fuel line and escaping, could also cause the problem. You need to inspect everything carefully.

Cannot answer well without specifics of what was changed. Did you blow the fuel lines clear with air pressure?

the fuel pump may be plugged up and that will overload the motor..also if the flame on does not occur the unit will shut down for safety..need to check the fuel nozzle and see if it sprays while trying to start.. if not it needs cleaned/replaced.. can be cleaned with carb spray and wiped off .. remove and look at the filter in the back of it.. may be blockked up..

you have a flame sensor. check to see if in the flame or or has any signs of cracks or chips

Empty the tank to be sure there is no water in the bottom.

If this is one of those liquid fuel heaters, change the nozzle, the filter, and clean the pump strainer. Bleed the air out of the fuel line by opening the small nipple (in the fuel line on the side of the pump) while attempting to start it until the fuel comes out clear and not sudsy, then close the nipple if the appliance had run out of fuel prior to you attempting to start it There's no spark plug in it, but a 10,000 volt ignitor.

REAL FACT is: If all individual components of the heater are at 100% but the air pump pressure is not on it's mark, then the heater WILL NOT continue to run! Air Pump Pressure is directly related to fuel delivery. Read that statement again! It is the most important line of text on this website. If the pump pressure is incorrect, then, the fuel delivery will be incorrect. As a result, the heater will not run to specs. Instructions for setting the air pump pressure: Air pump pressure is the pulse of the heater. Pump pressures range from 3 psi to 6 psi depending on heater BTU size (see chart below). A loss of ONLY 1 psi translates to a 30% to 17% loss of FUEL FLOW (starvation). You must know the specified required pressure and set the pressure accordingly. Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.

1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......

M29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water. or If your plastic end cover looks like this...... M16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water. 4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle. 5. Replace plug. Test for leak. 6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed. 7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

That's the safety; it's supposed to do that to keep you from getting blown up! Did you follow these instructions?:http://www.ehow.com/how_10008271_reddy-heater-instructions.htmlDoes the power light come on?Does the igniter heat up for 5 seconds?

Unit goes under sure heat name also.My unit emitted unburnt gas smell the minute pilot started,and was annoying during burner operation.I discovered they built unit with primary pilot that had 2 ports.They used LP and sealed off natural gas,instead turning lp/natknob on back activates second pilot for natural gas use.This means natural gas goes thru LP pilot orifice and burnsslightly off during normal natural gas use(by design).The unused natural gas orifice has 1 air mix hole and the LP orificehas 2 air mix holes.I carefully plugged 1 of the holes in the LP orifice and suddenlypilot gas flame seated correctly on orifice port.Gone was theunburnt odor of natural gas.The typical flame in a flame appearance now was exhibited bythe small pilot,secondary pilot remained consistent with manualpicture.Of course, to use with LP I would have to open blocked air mixhole in addition to the other changes per manual.Hope this helps someone with similar condition.

I need to buy some parts for my guardian kerosene heater 150 btu. Where should i go

ok this is where it is... *PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU REMEMBER TO TURN THE POWER OFF TO YOUR HEATER BEFORE DOING THIS*1.Turn the power off.2. at the top of the burner there are two silver tabs holding down the transformer loosen those nuts and slide the tabs back.3.flip open the transformer. the cad cell is right in the middle.4. pull out the the "eye" and look at it, if its dirty, wipe it off and youre done.

replace the thermocouple sold everywhere even wallmart or lowes etc

change thermostat

jason2713,

Provided that you know the unit has sufficient fuel and there is no dirt or water in the fuel you have a classic All Pro, Reddy Heat, Master Heater, etc problem. They are all made by DESA International and similar in operation. They control fuel pressure by bleed air. As the air filter plugs up the pressure changes and that is why your unit runs with the top off. You allow more air to flow. You need to replace the air filter and set the pump pressure. I have a tip at

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4124129-yearly_maintenance_reddy_heaters

which is written for Reddy Heaters but as I said before they are all the same. It tells you how to complete the repair and where to get the parts.

Thanks for using FixYa and for the great rating.

hardrocko

In case you have misplaced your Owners Manual here is a link to where you can find it.

http://www.desatech.com/constructionheaters.htm

Where it' says Construction Heaters, open that and scroll down until you find the Model Number of your heater. Click on that Model Number and it will bring up the Owners Manual and you can download and print it. It has an extensive troubleshooting guide, that should help you.

That generally indicates that the filters need cleaning, as well as dust or dirt in the heater. Without the cover, it can breathe. With the cover on, it can't. If you can provide me with the Model Number of your Reddy Heater, I will send you a copy of the Owners Manual, if you need one.

The reset button is part of a safety control assembly acting as a circuit breaker when the photocell detects that the flame is not firing properly.

This is a pretty expensive item, so you may want to check that it's in fact bad before getting one.
It may be that the photocell is dirty, or your heater is not firing properly, causing it to trip.

Is the replacement because it doesn't seem to be working or is it missing?

http://www.cart32hosting.com/cgi-bin/cart32.exe/REDDYPARTS-store?catid=14&prodid=36&Theme=Demo

pl check the thermostat adjustement/complaint