Remove top cover, and unplug motor, try it, and if it does not trip, then motor is causing prob.
If it still trips, then heater is probably causing problem.
Please rate my advice.
Thanks.
Finally the washer must be placed with a tilt- use a
spirit level- so that all water will drain to the outlet port and thereby there
is no residual water remaining.
Replacing the pump on a Bosch machine, please check
this link for tips:
It is a common fault that the drain fails to work in
most machines in a period of time and is the most problematic fault in a
washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most
important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If
you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and
fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you
look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at
the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing
resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged.
Now remove the drain hose clamps and remove the drain pump/valve, clean the
drain pump/valve, use back flushing to clear off all dirt. Now test using power
to see if this works and can be simulated. When refitting, the hose must be tightened
properly. If the pump/valve does not work even with power then it must be
replaced. If there is intermittent power
to the drain valve/pump then the program controller unit is a suspect.
Finally the washer must be placed with a tilt- use a
spirit level- so that all water will drain to the outlet port and thereby there
is no residual water remaining.
Replacing the pump on a Bosch machine, please check
this link for tips:
1, your pump may be blocked by fluff coins and other debris.
2. more likely bushes worn on the main motor not giving enough umphhh (loverly word) to go through a complete spin....Bushes easily replacable. Job start to finish with parts on hand a machine mechanic 10-15mins top Diy er like me an hour allways have trouble finding the right spanner... Good luck.
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(no promises but it's worth carrying this out anyway!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
In a word 'yes' and glad you know our technical jargon!
It calls for a call- to your local service engineer unless, that is, you can change it?
Good luck,
John C
I solved the problem myself after gleaning information off the web, it
was a faulty door interlock and I paid £5 for a second hand one from my
friendly local washing machine repair shop. The interlock is normally
£15 from retail spares shops but you can get them online for between £6
and £8.
This is how I did the job.
1. I unplugged the machine from the wall socket (This is important electric shocks can kill) 2. Undo the three screws holding the washing machine top on and slide the top off towards the rear of the machine. 3. Remove the 4 screws that are revealed when you remove the soap tray. 4.
remove the control knobs they pull off, make sure you note where the
program knob is pointing then you can put it back in the correct
position. 5. Pull off the panel from the left side and ease it to the
right to clear the lugs that hold it on the right hand side then
carefully let the panel hang by the 4 wires connected to it. 6. At
the top of the door panel there are 3 screws remove them and the panel
should tilt forward enough to reach in and get hold of the door
interlock. 7. Remove the 2 screws securing the door latch plate and
remove the interlock, but before pulling off the 3 wires on the
interlock make a note or take a picture with a camera phone then you
know which wire goes where.
Finally everything goes back together in reverse of removal, thanks for reading and I hope this helps someone fix their machine.
If you are certain the motor brushes are o/k, and making proper contact with the armature, then it is not possible to properly test the motor out of circuit, as it is electronically controlled.
Check all connections and leads going to and from the motor, particularly the leads at the motor block.
If all o/k, then it is going to be a faulty motor, or possibly a faulty timer.
You can find these listed on E-Bay.
I had the problem. I replaced the water inlet valve, and that fixed it. It seems no cold water was coming in on the drying cycle to condense the steam.
hello any spin problems usually down to the module board . theres circuit board at the back off the washer it may have a few wires coming off it the transistor on the board may be running hot
Hi, on a 4 wire 50 amp dryer cord, you will have a white wire that goes to the silver connection on the plug, a black, and red wire that go to the 2 brass colored connections, and the green goes to the ground at the plug and at the other end of the cord where it connects to the dryer, you can see that it is grounded to the appliance itself. Green is always ground or earth as some people call it. Very easy for you to wire. Most connections are marked if you look closely, line-1, line-2, N for white or neutral, and G for ground and green. Sincerely, Shastalaker7
