first thing to check would be the agitator dawgs if you can free spin the agitator when the unit is off then this is what you would have to replace think they cose about 5-7 dollars on the other hand if you set the unit to spin and the unit spins and then you use your hand against the side wall to slow the tub down if the tub slows then you would have a faulty clutch both of these are assuming that the motor and transmission are working properly and in order to check both of these you would need to remove the cabinet if you have any further questions message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped it allows me to help others in similar situations Thanks Rick
Chances are the wiring underneath to the transmission solinoid has broken. You'll have to drain the washer by laying the drain hose on the floor in a pan. Then turtle (flip on it's side) on a pad/carpet carefully and remove the back panel and trace the wires with a flashlight, If you find the break you can try a heavy duty **** splice but my experiences tell me adding wires to lengthing that cable is a better choice.
Yes, I work for GE what you need to do is to resent the appliance. Something should had happened with the computer of the washer. Just unplugged the machine for 40 seconds. You can unplugged or turn off the circuit breaker for 40 second and plugged back in. Select a normal cycle and let it run.
The first thing to always try is disconnecting it from the mains plug overnight. Then in the morning press and hold the power button for 60 seconds. Then plug it back in. The is a Power Reset on a machine that has an electronic mainboard.
Does water enter the machine? My guess is that the water inlet valve may have failed. It waits, no water comes, so it times out. There are a few things to check there, make sure there is water in the pipe, make sure the strainer screens are clear in the hose connecter on the back of the machine.
No model details given but there is help in the link.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Hotpoint+washing+machine+going+into+pause+mode
The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads. if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps. If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker. Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etcBeware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU" replacing the lid switch is probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
Yes it is a door lock issue. Check all the connections again and follow the wire back to the control board.
https://www.google.com/search?q=fault+code+F6+on+a+Hotpoint+NSWM943CWUKNWhat does F6 mean on Hotpoint washing machine?
F06 - Door lock fault. Issue: Washing Machines door cannot be opened or closed / when the door is closed the machine the programme will not start. Advice: If your washing machines door will not close, please check for any obstructions in the door lock.
That sounds like you are on Pause or Delayed Start. Try Pressing and holding the button. You can also try disconnecting from the mains for 5 minutes.
When in doubt, read the manual :>D
START/PAUSE button with indicator light: starts or temporarily interrupts the wash cycles. N.B. To pause the wash cycle in progress, press this button; the corresponding indicator light will flash orange, while the indicator light for the current wash cycle phase will remain lit in a fixed manner. If the DOOR LOCKED indicator light is switched off, the door may be opened. To start the wash cycle from the point at which it was interrupted, press this button again.
and also
! If the START/PAUSE indicator light (orange) flashes rapidly at the same time as the function indicator light, this indicates a problem has occurred (see "Troubleshooting").
https://manualzz.com/doc/50330217/hotpoint-fdl-9640p-uk-instruction-for-use
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If your Hotpoint FDEU 9640 washer-dryer is stopping prematurely during the dry cycle with all the LEDs flashing amber, it could be caused by a few different issues:
Check the filter: Make sure the filter is clean and not blocked. A blocked filter can cause the machine to stop working properly.
Check the venting: Make sure the venting system is clear and not blocked. A blocked vent can cause the machine to overheat and stop working.
Check the heating element: If the heating element is faulty, it can cause the machine to overheat and stop working.
Check the thermostat: If the thermostat is faulty, it can cause the machine to overheat and stop working.
Check the control board: The control board controls the various functions of the washer-dryer. If it is faulty, it can cause the machine to stop working.
If none of the above steps work, it is possible that the machine has a more serious problem that requires professional service.
It is important to refer to the user manual or contact Hotpoint technical support for further assistance and specific troubleshooting steps for your washer-dryer model. It is also important to make sure the machine is not plugged in before attempting any troubleshooting steps. It is also important to note that it is not safe to use a multimeter to test any of the heating element or thermostat
Typical Landlord comment.
It is a totally electronic machine. They a power reset. Pull the mains plug when you go to bed, press and hold the power button as you plug it back it back in.
Here is the manual if you need it.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/71052/Hotpoint-Wmf740-G-A-K.html
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Based on the description, it seems that the control PCB module is a possible cause of the issue with your washing machine. Checking for any signs of burnout on the PCB would be a good next step. However, keep in mind that handling electronics can be dangerous and if you're not comfortable or familiar with the process, it's better to seek the help of a professional.
It is possible to replace just the bearing on your Hotpoint Aqualtis AQD970F 69 EU washing machine, however, it can be a difficult and time-consuming task. The best course of action would be to consult the manual for instructions on how to replace the bearing, or watch a YouTube video that specifically relates to your model. You may also be able to find the necessary parts on websites such as Amazon or eBay. However, it is advisable to get the help of a professional technician to do the job if you are not comfortable with performing the repair yourself.
That sounds like dry bearings somewhere or may be a slipping belt from a dry bearing. You need an engineer unless you can manage a full investigative strip down.
There are no internal fuses on washing machines. If the fuse is 'in the plug', it sounds like you are in the UK. In the US and Canada, our fuse is the contact breaker in the master switch board. Did you replace it with a 13 amp fuse? Did you check the fuse with a multimeter or in another device known to work?
Help in the link
https://www.google.com/search?q=hotpoint+futura+washing+machine+12kg+troubleshooting
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