Top 20 Hotpoint WMM65 Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

Check the pipe inside the machine made with plastic and flexible could be damage!

Your bearings are faulty and the water is leaking out through them. You can get a bearing kit for it but would recommend having a professional fit them as it is a tough and time consuming job, about 2 hours labour. Hope this helps.

Remove lower rear cover from washer.
Remove large black hose onto bottom of drum.
Remove and clean plastic filter inside hose.
Remove hose onto pump, and check for obstruction here and in the pump.
This should helpo solve your problem.

If there is no filter to be found at the front lower right of washer, then you need to remove the lower rear panel of washer.
Locate and remove the large black hose fastened to bottom of drum.
Remove and clean plastic filter inside hose.
Remove hose onto pump, and checkjfor obstruction here and in the pump itself.
Please rate my solution.
Thanks.

I believe that the hotpoint part number is 1603290, the price in the UK is about £25 (About $35?). the pump is fairly easy to replace as far as I can see (I don't know the exact machine, but I have looked at the part. The pump is held to the chassis by 2 philips screws. pipes in and out of the pump will be held on by either a screw up clamp or a spring clamp, both of which are easy to remove. Power is via a 2 wire plug in connector. If you are a ressonably practical person, you should have no problems.

A few things before you start:

• TURN THE POWER OFF (And this means pull the plug out of the wall!)
• Drain the machine as best as you can.
• Have towels to mop up when you discover your best wasn't good enough.
• Once you have removed the pump, dry up properly before you start work with the replacement
• Always tip the machine BACKWARDS and away from the control panel so leaks don't wreck your electrics and change a $35 repair into a $200 repair.
• Have a look before you buy the part. Decide if you are happy to go ahead and understand what you are doing.

Finally, just consider the question is it actually the pump? If you can hear the pump running, its probably not the pump. If you can see water coming out of the waste pipe when you put it in the sink, its certainly not the pump. Take a look at the information I wrote for someone else about clearing a blocked pump before you go to replace the pump (I have reprinted the whole article below). I would strongly advise you to carry out the checks below anyway, because they may have contributed to the pump's failure if you have got a dead pump. Doing the following will help preserve the new one.

The empty pump cycle is a timed operation, the fact that there is still water in the drum after the time allowed for the pump to drain it has run out means that the water isn't clearing out fast enough.

In order of probability, the problem is usually caused by:
1. A blocked filter
2. An obstruction in the empty pipe or drain
3. A Faulty pump

1 Blocked Filter: Many machines have a small door in the bottom of the chassis. Behind this door (Usually about 5 inches square) is a filter, which will usually unscrew. In this filter you will find fluff, string, coins, the odd small sock and all sorts of nasty stuff if you haven't had the filter out before. If the filter is blocked then the pump is having to draw water through all that gunk and it will run out of time and leave water in the drum. Clean the filter in the sink, pocket the coins you find and make a note to clean it regularly in the future Most manufactures will suggest you check it every 2 months or so, depends how often you are using the machine of course.
Unfortunately, other machines do not have filters so easily accessible. If there is no door or obvious access to the filter, some manufacturers put a trap in the rubber hose that feeds the pump. The pain here is that the access to these traps is gained by dragging the bachine out of its place under the work surface and tipping it on to its back. Track the waste pipe back to locate the pump. On the other side of the pump will be a thicker (usually black rubber) pipe and built into this pipe is usually a little bucket that stuff can fall into before it gets to the pump. You can usually squeeze the pipe and feel if there is stuff in it. If there is, then depending on the machine again, some of these traps will have a plug in the bottom that is held in place by a spring clip (Pliers to compress the spring to get it off) or a screw clip (Unscrew with a screwdriver). Enev if there is no trap as such, squeeze the rubber delivery pipe and feel for obstructions (Often a sock!), if necessary, disconnect the pipe from the pump to gain access to the blockage. WARNING!: Never tip the machine all the way onto its back, you may cause a water leak inside the machine. ALWAYS tip BACKWARDS, to the control panel for the machine is pointing up to avoid water getting to the control panel. I would recommend butting a chair behind the machine as you tip it, so the top back of the machine comes to rest on the seat and the machine is at about 45 degrees. this will give you access to underneath without a leak and make is a lot easier to tip it back on to its feet again afterwards.
2. An obstruction in the empty pipe or drain: Start at the point that the pipe enters the household drain pipe, pull out the empty pipe and check that water will flow freely into the drain (Stuffing the garden hose down there and turning it on (but not TOO FAST) will usually demonstrate if there is a blockage. If this is free, check the pipe that runs from the pump to the drain (This will need the machine tipping as described above, and possibly the pipe removing from the pump to check it.
3. A Faulty Pump:If you have done everything described so far, then you have checked for obstructions in the pipe leading to the pump, the pipe leading away and you have cleaned out any filters or traps... If you still have a problem, you have a faulty pump. This is highly unlikely. These pumps have induction motors (no brushes to fail) and in my experience, they either work, or they don't. They very seldom "work a bit". If SOME water is being pumped (check by putting the empty hose in the sink and watching) then you really need to double check your work before replacing the pump. Good news is, if you do have to they are usually reasonably priced.

this is a common faulton this model of machine, and is easily replaced by yourself. theres two types of these blue fins used in the machine so be sure you know which one it is,, there is a version 1 and a version 2.. if your in the uk you can purchase these from a company called connect distributions type it into google to get further details....

This is a generic solution, so there may be very slight differences for your machine, but it should still work.

Rule 1: BEFORE YOU START Turn off the mains, unplug at the wall, turn off the water supply.

The gasket is held in place on the drum by a large sprung wire ring with a screw tighten/release. To access this (Depending on the model), you will either have to go in from the top or the bottom of the machine. Usually the top.

Pull the machine out, go to the back and unscrew, usually 2 screws that hold the "Work top surface" top on the machine at the back. There are usually clips at the front of the top, so by lifting the rear clear and either pulling the top back, or giving it a tap forward, depending on the design, the top should now lift off.

You should now be able to look down at the drum and you should clearly see the rubber gasket fitted over the edge of the drum with the clip in place. Locate the screw in tensioner and undo it until ot is possible to slip it forward and clear of the drum. You should now be able to simply pull the gasket away from the drum. Most machines rely on the door being closed to hold the gasket in place where it meets the chassis, it should just pull off if the door is open, but while you are lookiing inside, just check anyway. The assembly is simply a reverse of what is described above.

Stuff to consider: You may not be able to see the screw clip from the top, if so, tip the machine back and look from underneath. If you have to do this: Never tip the machine all the way onto its back, you may cause a water leak inside the machine. ALWAYS tip BACKWARDS, so the control panel for the machine is pointing up to avoid water getting to the control panel. I would recommend putting a chair behind the machine as you tip it, so the top back of the machine comes to rest on the seat and the machine is at about 45 degrees. this will give you access to underneath without a leak and make is a lot easier to tip it back on to its feet again afterwards.

The first thing to always try is disconnecting it from the mains plug overnight. Then in the morning press and hold the power button for 60 seconds. Then plug it back in. The is a Power Reset on a machine that has an electronic mainboard. Does water enter the machine? My guess is that the water inlet valve may have failed. It waits, no water comes, so it times out. There are a few things to check there, make sure there is water in the pipe, make sure the strainer screens are clear in the hose connecter on the back of the machine. No model details given but there is help in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=Hotpoint+washing+machine+going+into+pause+mode

Certainly! Here's a concise response for the forum discussion: To clear the Hotpoint dishwasher FDYF 11011p Fault F01, you can follow these steps:

1. Power Reset:
   • Turn off the dishwasher and unplug it.
   • Wait for about 10 minutes.
   • Plug it back in and restart.
2. Check Door Lock:
   • Ensure the door is securely closed.
   • Check for any obstructions in the door lock mechanism.
3. Inspect Wiring:
   • Examine the wiring for any visible damage.
   • If you're comfortable, check the connections and reseat them securely.
4. Temperature Sensor:
   • Fault F01 may be related to the temperature sensor. Verify its condition and connections.

If the issue persists, it's advisable to consult the Hotpoint dishwasher manual or contact customer support for further assistance. Hope this helps!

Doing things like that seldom works, but if is is cheap, try it. Your motor is here including new from Whirlpool. Welling electronic control motor HXGM1L.52 https://www.google.com/search?q=Welling+electronic+control+motor+HXGM1L.52 ..

Visit page no 6 of user manual Instruction manual for Hotpoint WMTF 722 H Top Loading Washing Machine - White (Argos Product 380/7365) (argos-support.co.uk) It may help you.

Cogs possibly bad.. Check this article..... https://www.fuseami.com/how-to-fix-hotpoint-washer-that-wont-agitate/ Parts link and 877 Tech help #. https://www.appliancepartspros.com/search.aspx?model=htw240ask5ws&page=3 Another Parts house and 800# Tech Help. https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Washing-Machine/47-95-2297136-/New/Hotpoint-Washer-Won-T-Spin-Or-Agitate-HTW240ASK5WS I would give the above guys @ repairclinic call before throwing parts at it. Their very helpful..either one of them. . Repair clinic or appliancepartspro. I'm not accociated with either of them. I've just used them for repairing appliances in some rental units and my house and they've always been helpful. Best to you

The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again. Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks. If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads. if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle. If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps. If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker. Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker. The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips. To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty. If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet. If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets. Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and  HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU" replacing the lid switch is probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

They melt due to high resistance across the solenoid and contacts. My only thought it that they were not genuine OEM replacements and were copies on eBay or Amazon and sourced in China. also follow the wires back to the control board and clean the contacts there. https://www.google.com/search?q=hotpoint+wml520+door+switch I can only find one other incidence of a door lock melting and it is here on Fixya. https://www.fixya.com/support/t29905283-ve_got_hotpoint_washing_machine_model https://www.google.com/search?q=hotpoint+wml520+door+switch+melting+problem ....

Yes it is a door lock issue. Check all the connections again and follow the wire back to the control board. https://www.google.com/search?q=fault+code+F6+on+a+Hotpoint+NSWM943CWUKN What does F6 mean on Hotpoint washing machine? F06 - Door lock fault. Issue: Washing Machines door cannot be opened or closed / when the door is closed the machine the programme will not start. Advice: If your washing machines door will not close, please check for any obstructions in the door lock.

Washing Machine Error Codes - Hotpoint Service

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That sounds like you are on Pause or Delayed Start. Try Pressing and holding the button. You can also try disconnecting from the mains for 5 minutes. When in doubt, read the manual :>D START/PAUSE button with indicator light: starts or temporarily interrupts the wash cycles. N.B. To pause the wash cycle in progress, press this button; the corresponding indicator light will flash orange, while the indicator light for the current wash cycle phase will remain lit in a fixed manner. If the DOOR LOCKED indicator light is switched off, the door may be opened. To start the wash cycle from the point at which it was interrupted, press this button again. and also ! If the START/PAUSE indicator light (orange) flashes rapidly at the same time as the function indicator light, this indicates a problem has occurred (see "Troubleshooting"). https://manualzz.com/doc/50330217/hotpoint-fdl-9640p-uk-instruction-for-use ..

If your Hotpoint FDEU 9640 washer-dryer is stopping prematurely during the dry cycle with all the LEDs flashing amber, it could be caused by a few different issues:

1. Check the filter: Make sure the filter is clean and not blocked. A blocked filter can cause the machine to stop working properly.
2. Check the venting: Make sure the venting system is clear and not blocked. A blocked vent can cause the machine to overheat and stop working.
3. Check the heating element: If the heating element is faulty, it can cause the machine to overheat and stop working.
4. Check the thermostat: If the thermostat is faulty, it can cause the machine to overheat and stop working.
5. Check the control board: The control board controls the various functions of the washer-dryer. If it is faulty, it can cause the machine to stop working.
6. If none of the above steps work, it is possible that the machine has a more serious problem that requires professional service.

It is important to refer to the user manual or contact Hotpoint technical support for further assistance and specific troubleshooting steps for your washer-dryer model. It is also important to make sure the machine is not plugged in before attempting any troubleshooting steps. It is also important to note that it is not safe to use a multimeter to test any of the heating element or thermostat

Typical Landlord comment. It is a totally electronic machine. They a power reset. Pull the mains plug when you go to bed, press and hold the power button as you plug it back it back in. Here is the manual if you need it. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/71052/Hotpoint-Wmf740-G-A-K.html ..

Based on the description, it seems that the control PCB module is a possible cause of the issue with your washing machine. Checking for any signs of burnout on the PCB would be a good next step. However, keep in mind that handling electronics can be dangerous and if you're not comfortable or familiar with the process, it's better to seek the help of a professional.