Hotpoint WMA46 Front Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

faulty program board not progressing call a technician

If you look up Hotpoint-Spares.co.uk and select your machine model and you can purchase it on line or ring them up on 01489 782492 they are very helpful. Hotpoint Spares co uk For all your hotpoint spares and accessories

Maybe the old bearings were designed to ground the door. Try a ground strap.

Unless meets water from tank necessary to check the pumps a discharge and clean him from rubbish.

You may not be able to have it repaired, depending on the damage. It's hard to find a place that still rebuilds those boards.Could you give me the full model number, and I'll see if I can find you one?

Do try another program before you give in to the machine. Kolbrun

Hotpoint wma46 This video will show you how to keep your soap draw clear and how to service the parts Please remember to subscribe to our YouTube channel for all appliance tutorials a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

What are the lights that are flashing?

Remove two screws from rear of machine and slide forwards

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(providing yours is front loading?)
The quick answer is 'DON'T'! Purchase a replacement and fit that 'cos the old one will only come off again!
Belts are not expensive- sorry I do not know how much yours would cost- and are easy to be changed by a competent person:-
REMOVE POWER FROM THE MACHINE AND REMOVE THE BACK.
The motor support bolts should be loosened and the old belt removed. Often putting the new belt on is a bit of a struggle, even with the motor 'loose', because it is new and smaller!
Once on it should be tensioned by pulling the motor against the belt firmly- but not over tight- and the motor support bolts tightened.
ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANY FORM OF LEVERAGE BE USED TO TENSION THE BELT AGAINST THE MOTOR OR FRAME; THAT COULD LEAD TO DAMAGE TO THE BELT, MOTOR AND BEARINGS- EXPENSIVE!


If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Yes provided that the wash required is not for full sterile condition you can have the cold wash using a good detergent.
Choose the appropriate program that does not have the HOT wash and it will progress the cycle.

Mine does this too. I've also noticed that no water is visable through the door window and I'm sure the bottom of the drum should be submerged. I've been adding a bowl of water after the m/c has taken water in, which seems to help, but I don't know what the long term solution is. But definitely get a cloth out and clean the soap unit and housing!

If your washing machine won't drain, the problem is most likely in the drain hose or the pump. Since the washing machine is filling up with water, you can rest assured that the motor is working correctly. And if your washing machine spins or runs through a cycle, then you can be sure that the belt is OK.
Since the washer fills and spins, the problem is probably the drain hose.

Be certain that the hose isn't crimped or kinked.
Lift the washing machine lid and examine the tab that rests under the lid. This tab connects to a switch on the washing machine. If it is broken, the washing machine will turn off and won't drain thoroughly.
If the tab is broken, you can try to fix it yourself, however, you may find that it is best to have a professional repair it for you.
If the problem isn't in the lid switch or the drain hose, then the problem may be that the water pump is broken.
This will require the services of a professional plumber.

The drum sits on a shaft, just like the front wheel on a car. There are 2 bearings, one each side of the drum housing. Usually the inner bearing water seal fails and the bearings begin to rust, causing it to become noisy. Once the water is that far, its not long until the outer bearing goes. At some time in the process, you will begin to get a water leak from the rear of the drum that will get progressively worse.

You can change the bearings and I work with professionals who claim that they can have a drum out, bearings swapped and back in within 45 minutes. I've never got it down below an hour and a half on a machine I know well and you will need, if not SPECIAL tools, then a tool of some description to knock out the old bearings that are pressed into the drum. This is a job for the hardened DIY enthusiast and a pig of a job if you've never done it before.

Bearing sets cost (depending on the machine, the supplier and how many you buy) around £25 in the UK (About $40). Calling out a guy to do the job will easily quadruple that cost (He will probably come with a refurbished drum, swap it out and then take yours away to refurbish).

With this information, you now have to ask yourself if it's worth the effort on a machine that may be reaching end of life anyway.

Typically, the noise will get SCARY and the water leak annoying long before the machine actually fails to work. My advice would be take this as notice that your machine is about to go to the scrap yard in the sky and start looking for a replacement before it croaks on you at an inappropriate moment.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
This sounds very much like the belt is broken or the motor is malfunctioning.
Belt first.
Belts are not expensive- sorry I do not know how much yours would cost- and are easy to be changed by a competent person:-
REMOVE POWER FROM THE MACHINE AND REMOVE THE BACK.
The motor support bolts should be loosened and the old belt removed. Often putting the new belt on is a bit of a struggle, even with the motor 'loose', because it is new and smaller!
Once on it should be tensioned by pulling the motor against the belt firmly- but not over tight- and the motor support bolts tightened.
ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANY FORM OF LEVERAGE BE USED TO TENSION THE BELT. THAT COULD LEAD TO DAMAGE TO THE BELT, MOTOR AND BEARINGS- EXPENSIVE!
If it turns out to be the motor, it is false economy to just have the brushes changed although financially very attractive. Experience of others is that the brushes may only last months unless, that is, the motor is totally refurbished at the same time. It depends on how old the motor is and how much wear the commutator has had. New motors are not cheap, though. It's your choice!
Hope this is your problem solved.
Good luck,
John C
If this has assisted you please score accordingly. Thanks!

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
It does sound as if the motor requires replacement unless the belt is slipping- but I think you would have heard that! It could be the controller but probably motor, especially if the washer isn't exactly new ;-0)
It might be suggested that just the brushes on the motor want changing; experience (of others) suggests that they may only last months rather than many years UNLESS the motor itself is refurbished. Refurbishment includes skimming the commutator on which the brushes run. Without skimming the brushes do not sit cleanly on the com, often causing excessive sparking and excessive wear on BOTH. Alternately a new motor! I changed the motor (and belt at the same time) on our 19+ year-old Bosch at a cost of GBP250 ;-0(
Clearly the choice is yours!
Good luck,
John C

I assume you have tried the plug in another socket to prove if socket is o/k.
If still no power, then I would suspect that the control module has failed at he top of the washer.
You will have to remove top cover to gain access to it.

The pump is not engaging. Check its operating mechanism or belts.

The first potential area of trouble could be that the dryer has a defective thermal resistor. Dryer thermal resistors control the heater in the unit. If the thermal resistor is defective, it will not turn off the heating components in the dryer, which will cause the dryer to continually heat up. As it keeps heating, it keeps drawing power, which will trip the breaker.
Do a continuity test on the thermal resistor as well as the hi as well as the low thermostats this will tell you if they are good or bad. if you are not able to do this type of electrical test call a tehnician. if you have any further questions message me back thanks again Rick

I think probably the problem was caused an out of balance load.
which would cause the problem you have experienced.
The door catch can be replaced, but it means taking the door apart to replace it, and you may possibly have to replace the door lock as well.
I think it is worth repairing, but you may possibly have to get an enginner to do it for you.