Well it could be the lid switch. If that turned out to be ok I would check the fusemounted on the back side on the heater housing seen here as non-resetable limit. Lots of lint rstricts airflow and heat builds to dangerous levels. So clean er out. To get to the limit pop the top by removing some screws
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
look in the back of the dryer,around half way up in the middle you'll see the block where the cord connects too,you''l see three screws or posts there,the white wire which is the neutral goes in the middle,the red connects to one of the outside post or screw and the black goes to the other side doesn't matter what side,now you have the green wire left,that's the ground wire,just ground it anywhere in the back as long as it touches the frame,that's the only difference is the ground from the three prong cord,you can remove any screw in the back stick the ground on the screw and screw it back into the frame and you're done,good luck
chances are the rear bearing sleeve needs replaced or lubricated...parrt is very cheap,but kind of difficult to install w/out prev. experience....should be repaired for less than 120.00 if service company is honest
This sounds
like the thermostats This is not help is not on your model
but should guide you in the right direction. All the best APART4U
You-Tube video "sfGInKA3yp8" placeholder (do not delete)
Common faults - 1 Theheating elementscan fail
(meaning open circuit) 2 There arecut-outs (T.O.C's)that
might need resetting 3 Thethermostats (stats)can trip
out or burn out (meaning opencircuit) 4 Moderntumble dryers also have sensors andpcb's (Printed circuitboards)thesehave
programs that can fail and circuitry although most should produce an errorcode
showing you were the fault is. 5 Faultyconnections and burned wires may also be the
fault.
I would say that the problem is due to the door handle spring being weak or broken.
Purchase a door handle kit, and it should solve the problem, if it does not, then you need a new door switch.
Hope this helps with your problem.
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley.
If you have to replace your drum belt and if you have a front loading machine.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good luck,
I hope this helps
Make sure the dryer vent hose, as well as the rest of the vent duct, is not clogged.
Unless regular maintenance is performed, chances are there is a lot of lint accumulated inside the dryer. This might affect the drying time and could be a fire hazard, due to poor ventilation that will cause overheating. Make sure to have your dryer cleaned regularly. Because this might involve taking most of the dryer apart, it is recommended to have a qualified appliance repairman perform this task.
This may also be a failing thermostat. A thermostat can fail by being always on, no matter what the temperature. This switch will show continuity whether it was hot or cold. In this case, the heater will not shut off and the the dryer could dangerously overheat. As a safety precaution a second thermostat is used, This is called a thermal fuse. The power will be cut to the heating circuit if the maximum safe temperature is exceeded. In most cases, this is a one time fuse. The heater circuit will not function until the fuse has been replaced. Of course, it will be necessary to determine and repair the underlying cause of overheating or the fuse will just cut out again. The most common cause of overheating will be a clogged ventilation assembly. Be sure to inspect the entire ventilation assembly for build up. This will cause issues, if obstructions exist.
The thermostats are usually grouped together. The are typically oval in shape and about an inch and a half in size. They may be on the blower housing, under the lint trap or inside the vent line. There should be two wires connected to each thermostat.
Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.
It is normal for some heat to be present, there is a lot of stored heat in the drum. But, if the heat is the same as if t elements are still on, you are likely facing an overheating condition when the dryer is actually running.
Check your dryer vent (on outside), as well as dryer hose, and pipe on the back of your dryer for lint buildup and missing socks. I am betting that you are going to find quite a bit here (maybe even some dollar bills). Also make sure that you are changing the lint fiter every now and then, preferably between loads.
You should check to make sure you don't have a kinked or obstructed exaust line . The exaust is what allows the air from the clothes to escape as well as moisture and heat and is very important for efficient drying.
Hello Friend, This problem is real common in Hotpoint/GE dryers. Your solution is simple. You need to replace the front drum bearing and glider pads. It's actually pretty simple to do. Just remove front of dryer cabinet. After removal just look at backside of dryer front around the inner door. You will see where the dryer drum has turned and wore a hole in the plastic piece above the dryer door. This piece is called the front drum bearing. Just unsnap this piece and snap in a new one. Be sure to replace the little plastic glide pads onto the top of the drum bearing before re-installing the dryer cabinet front. The front drum bearing and glider pads are sold seperately so make sure you have everything you need before you begin. This should solve your problem. Happy to help, Tim. Thanks.
The Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is
probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas
valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or
three) if found defective.
Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not
letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.
Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured
with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.
Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer
overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or
stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the
dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a
meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not
broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
pry the top up at the corners and then open the top. now look inside the front panel about 4 inches down on both sides and remove the 2 screws or hex heads holding the front to the cabinet. Remove door switch wires and remove front, carefull drum will drop slightly, you may want to lay it on it's back before removing front panel. from there if you have posted right or close to right model number, the 3 screws you see in the drum, remove them after undoing your belt. remember how you undo the belt so that you can put it back on the right way. Pull drum up out of cabinet and there you will see your heat element. from this site www.repairclinic.com it shows a double element. Might be only one half working causing the lenghthy dry time if this is bad replace it you'll know if one half is bad. Clean all you can while apart you can also slide out the rear bearing out of the bearing cup and apply some high temp grease there. If your element is good change the thermostat. from the looks of this belt make sure the grooves are facing up on the drum or it won't go back on right on the motor and tensioner pulley. I hope this helps you and Good luck.
Set the timer one day, later clothes not warm at all, dryer still running and timer had not moved. It has never heated up again. Can you help me figure out the problem? Where all the heating elements, thermostats etc may be. thank you for your help.
The top is often screwed down. On yours it may have spring relaeces and screws at the bottom. The springs about 1" to 1.5" wide may be pushed in with a flad blade like a putty knife. Look between the top and the front for these springs from side to side or inset from each corner maybe as much as 8". If it has screws they could be under the lip if it extends under the dryer front. or they could be under the dashwhere the time and controls are mounted.remover the back of the dash for access there. If it has screws there the top may slide or need to be pushed back after unscrewing them. Good Luck
If air flow is restricted this can cause it. Or if your voltage is high or if you have received an element that has been stretched and is loose this could cause it. You say immediate and how long in loads or time is this? Are you sure the element still has full voltage (220V aprox) to the element?
mounted on the back side on the heater housing seen here as non-resetable limit. Lots of lint rstricts airflow and heat builds to dangerous levels. So clean er out.
