Monitor powers on for approx 8 secs then
When I applied the solution below, I go stripes when poorly reconnecting the logic board to the plate, and the plate ability to do it job can be effect by bits going on the inverter, wavely screen output etc. The lcd is an assembly kit inside have a look... solution
To a 2 sec screen ok then off !
The lcd has three parts the screen plate(windows)/the logic(vga)/the inverter(power plug). You have 2 out of 3 working ok. The power save option via the vga(on/off, connected/dis) is rerunning the lcd self test and finding an error(the plate in this case). Parts that go are the backlight ccfl's, behind the plate, and parts of the inverter, ie capacitors, all three take a bit of power from the inverter. The self test check that all the lights are ok and the inverter is ok, else it switchs off, ie if 3/4 light work it will switch off(my own case), hence the on chech error then off, However sometime there are stages of on/off ie on/ but no perm screen display(only temp), if that is the case the following may be of help...if you put bright light at an angle close to lcd can you see a windows shadow, text icons etc, ie still logic power passing(vga),then .... (from a.n. other) after two weeks searching I finally find doctor living stone http://www.aplusperfect.com/articles/lcd_capacitor_repair more fun with paulbtorrent the takening the case bit off is like opening your wallet a second time after buying a new LCD, but you must! smallest two screw driver's flat headed, practice using two pennies stuck together()with your fingers after, one little () move and inch and {} again, with the case , it does not break, just need to lever open
[once open you realize they somehow put that old briefcase clip inside!] also note the bright light test to do first to see if can see a windows
screen , and that capacitors are one for a number of things that a make a inverter work! there a transistors as well, given that however, to replace all the capacitors on my inverter, was 11 capacitors, cost me $11 (uk ebay) and already had the iron and solder. So only cost me me $11 to try and see but no luck , still fun and I still can see the screen for 2 sec' at a time plus I have a spare set of caps now in the event that the new one do go burst! you have to laugh really, what next , a new on/off button, as you work though the whole thing ! mmmMMMMmmmMMMMmmmMMMMTim Berners-leeMMMMMmmmmMMMMMmmmmcome back all is not
wellMMMMMMMMMMnnnnnnweek later land sight mmmmmMMMMMMMMMmmmmgggggggg(from
another a.n other)Generally, if the screen went out quickly, it was the inverter. If it went out over a slow period of time (flickering etc..) I would bet it is the lamp.replaceing the lamp should be pretty challenging. as that requires complete breakdown of your LCD, extraction of your dead lamp, and soldering in your new lamp... but I would like to say that I it did this after realizing it's 2 x kitchen strips inside [========] x 2 with wires that can connect back to the inverter with out any desoldering(ie kit assembly/dis) with the outter case remove (glass plate safe away) I could reconnect and see that 3/4 were working (i!i hardcard ) cause the inverter to switch off after a secound ! order ccfl and replace and going to cheap and see if I can get away with fitting a 15" in my 19' as it a 1/3 of the price ! the market as drop out there, hope the inverter does not miss the length, or the screen out put.
http://www.lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopCCFL1.aspx OR MONITOR, I when a head because I could get the inverter to keep the 4 going out of their shell, but in the strip, using a spare, but then I broke a wire joint and then broke a tube. But at least I found out a bit more about inverters and ccfl's ! After hong konging a part a 20.1 for $8, plus a 15, got it to work, the bottom of the screen looks like a cinema, dark at the sides, will have to order another 20" cclf at some point, but at least my HF207 is now working ok hence this note !paulbtorrent!
