20 Most Recent Hotpoint RGB745 Gas Kitchen Range - Page 2 Questions & Answers

If everything works on your range, but the oven, the most likely culprit is the igniter for the BAKE manifold. What is confusing me, though is the statement in your question where you say the "oven will light up, but never get hot". Yet, you say the oven does not ignite. Can you clarify this? In some ovens the BAKE and BROIL manifolds BOTH light when preheating, to reduce the warm up time. Once the desired temperature is reached the manifold not in use, will shut off.

In any case, on a gas range, the burners for the BAKE and BROIL manifolds use an electric glow bar type igniter. There's a separate igniter for EACH burner. When you make a bake or broil selection on your oven control, the respective igniter begins to glow. After the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve is opened, gas flows to the manifold, and voila! You have ignition. It can take as long as 90 seconds for the burner to ignite. What can happen over time, is the igniter becomes weak or fails. If the igniter becomes weak, it will still glow, but it never reaches the desired current potential to open the gas safety valve. The result: you end up with an igniter glowing with no ignition. And, if you're like me, you're left scratching your head wondering why the thing isn't working when it "looks" like it is. You can easily tell if the igniter is working by opening your oven door and selecting bake. Watch the oven pan in the bottom of the oven. You should see an orange glow coming from under it. It here's no glow at all, the igniter has probably failed. If there IS a glow, a current reading will tell if it's within tolerance. The following link explains more on these igniters and how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r401858-replacing_oven_igniter_gas_range

The bake igniter is a common fail item as it gets used more frequently than the broil function. On your range both igniters are interchangeable. You can purchase replacements on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com, or appliancepartspros.com. The part number is WB2X9154. Shop all three sites for the best price.

I hope this helps you. If my assessment of your symptoms is wrong, or if you need further assistance, please let me know.

Replace the door seals, they are the thin rubber strips around the front of the oven when the door is open. They are simple to change as they just clip on.

sounds like your cooking timer is buzzing

Could be a faulty solenoid coil on the gas valve, or a relay you may need to remove the front panel and have a listen be careful it's live power . Use a multimeter to test through the circuits an disconnect the item that's buzzing, there is your problem. Good luck and be careful Ray

What is the complete model number of your unit?

You don't say if it's natural gas or LP gas, sometimes lp gas will smell if there is low pressure in the cylinder( nearly empty)

even if the ingitor glows, and the oven wont lite, the odds are that the ingitor is bad. it must draw 3.2 amps to open the gas valve. the only way to test the ignitor is with an amp probe. replacing the ingnitor is about 90% a sure thing.

http://www.fixya.com/support/p39911-hotpoint_rgb745_gas_kitchen_range/manual-18109 Please read before operating.

F2 During BAKE, Control senses oven temperature above 615F-630F f actual over temperature condition occurred: Look for welded relay contacts on bake or broil relays. If this happens, replace oven control (also called clock or ERC). Here is the part to order.

-The oven control valve is stuck. Replace new one. Good luck Mai

Most gas ranges that can be converted between LP and natural gas include an orifice kit usually located by the gas connection and regulator. Some ranges cannot be converted. I doubt you will be able to find any documentation that tells you the size of the required orifices. Remember that there is an orifice for each of the surface burners as well for the oven and broiler burner(s)