20 Most Recent Hotpoint HMT40 Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers


you have to send the full model number off of the fridge,open the fridge door,look up near the ceiling on the left or right hand wall depending on your model and you'll see a tag with the model and serial numbers,just send the model number,g.e. makes hotpoint machines so most likely you have a bad computer board or mother board same thing,,usually it takes a wr55x10942 and it's around 150 to 200 hundred dollars but need the model number to check it,some take a different board but this is the common board.you'll find the board located on the back outside wall of the fridge,pull it out away from the wall,remove the screws and cover but first unplug the machine before you touch the board or remove the cover,there are 4 plastic clips holding the board in place,i use a needlenose plyers to pinch the clips and slide the bord out one at a time and then you can look at the back of the board to see if it has any burn marks on it,everything runs through the board and g.e. has had problems with the boards.don't order this board until you make sure this is the part for your machine by checking it with the model number .good luck.

Hotpoint HMT40... | Answered on Jul 05, 2011


Tape the door open buttons down. It's dark but quiet.

Hotpoint HMT40... | Answered on Aug 31, 2010


at the back there is a black house that will be blocked .defrost it look at the back right at the bottom and you will see the small house that will need unblocking

Hotpoint... | Answered 3 days ago


The drip tray should be firmly fixed to the top of the compressor unit - that gets quite warm during each cooling cycle. At the end of each cooling cycle the warming panel is switched on for a short time to melt the frost so the water drips into the tray shortly after the most heat is available to evaporate it and shortly after that the tray should be dry.

How can such a simple system fail?
Perhaps the tray is loose, perhaps the fridge is sited in a draught or perhaps there is a moist atmosphere in the fridge creating more frost and therefore too much water.

Hotpoint... | Answered on Jul 04, 2020


if compressor is running and no cooling is present --possible damage when defrosting causing loss of freon

Hotpoint... | Answered on Apr 16, 2020


no not outside temp unit its telling you the temperature you have unit set for is rising [[getting warm not cooling ]]

Hotpoint... | Answered on Apr 16, 2020


FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING:Optimumrefrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Checkurcold control thermostat,urthermistorsin both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as perurmodel ),urair flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) Onthermistorscheck for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As perurmodel. Most shouldatleastshow 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poorcooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check thedefrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engageurdefrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providingurterminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Placeurmeter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Takeurmeter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Nowur1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u knowurtimer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor,relay and or capacitoris overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To checkurcompressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somelocated next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes tourstart winding, 1 goes tourrun winding and the center goes tourground.

Placeurmeter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prongagin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total ofurtwo separate test. 9 ohms, if they matchurok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short inurcompressor. It should show infinity

TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE

A3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) Thekit includes relay, capacitor, andoverload device, pre-wired. Thekit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use?proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.

The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection


Lastly you should also checkurTHERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL
As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.
On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.

If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold controlthermostat ( in the fridge compartment)with an alligator jumper.You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms-If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.

To test or change the coldcontrol, firstPull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plateor housing from it.
You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer
The air damper, baffle or diffuser is the device that balances the air flow from the evaporator fan housing. This normally is a mechanically controlled baffle or flapper that controls the amount of cold air entering the fresh food compartment. If the baffle is damaged or the linkage to the control knob is damaged, then you may not have enough cold air entering the fresh food compartment resulting in higher than normal temperatures. This baffle or damper will be located where the cold air enters the fresh food compartment.


Read more:

http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqXN-ZCuptk THIRMISTOR CHECK


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Hotpoint... | Answered on Mar 29, 2020


Check the freezer: If your fridge does not have an auto-defrost function then excessive ice-build up in the freezer can cause the beeping alarm. If you see a lot of ice build-up in the icebox or freezer, switch off the fridge and let the ice thaw. Once the fridge is thawed, the beeping should stop.
https://www.appliance-insurance.co.uk/appliance-insurance-articles/6-causes-beeping-fridge/

Hotpoint... | Answered on Mar 29, 2020


If the fridge is overcooling it could be the thermostat. If the defrost panel is permanently switched on, overcooling might not be noticed but the condenser will become quite hot.

If running continuously, there is no overcooling and the condenser remains cool, either the compressor is defective or the refrigerant has leaked away.

Hotpoint... | Answered on Dec 11, 2019


hi
sounds like the freezer part has an ice blockage the clicking may well be the fan chipping at ice and no air flow will mean the freezer is partialy working yey not allowing cold air to fridge
if this is the case to proove point give unit a good defrost for as long as possible then turn unit back on
if this works it will require a service engineer to check the defrost cycle of the unit is no longer failing
good luck

Hotpoint... | Answered on Sep 01, 2019

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