This is normally caused by a badly sealing door gasket. It pulls in moist warm air and deposits it near the evaporator.
Your manual says it has auto-defrost, so if it is icing up, it means that the defrost timer, or the defrost heater is faulty. Service call or a new one.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/70760/Hotpoint-Rla34.html?page=10#manual
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Hey guys need some help please
me and my partner have just moved into our first flat and we brought a 2nd hand hot point fffl 1810 fridge freezer
the super cool n freeze are flashing and we cant reset them so we have tried these following
turned both dials to off and pressed n hold the buttons nuffink
turned back on left 1 hour and then turned the freeze one off and pressed both buttons nufink
turned back on for 1 hour and turned the fridge one off and pressed both buttons and nuffink
tooK both panels off on n checked to make sure nufink is blocked n the fan is working
anything else i could try please
Something to think about from the manual for your freezer. Also I would check the temperature of your freezer with a thermometer to make sure it is freezing ok .Troubleshooting
If the appliance does not work, before calling for Assistance (see
Assistance), check for a solution from the following list.
The green POWER indicator light does not illuminate.
• The plug has not been inserted into the electrical socket, or not
far enough to make contact, or there is no power in the house.
The motor does not start.
• The appliance comes with a motor protection control (
see Start-
up and use
).
The indicator lights are on but the light is dim.
• Pull out and reverse the plug before putting it back in the socket.
a) The alarm sounds.
a) The refrigerator door has remained open for more than two
minutes (the buzzer will stop sounding when you shut the door) or
the correct switching-off procedure was not followed (
see
Maintenance
).
b) The alarm sounds and the two yellow indicator lights
flash.
b) The temperature in the freezer is too high. Check the quality of
the food products and dispose if necessary.
+ buzzer =
Heating is excessive
c) The alarm sounds and the two yellow indicator lights
as well as the green one flash.
c) The temperature in the freezer has reached a dangerous level.
The food must be disposed immediately.
+ buzzer =
Heating danger
b/c)
In both these cases the freezer will maintain a temperature of
about 0°C so that the food does not re-freeze.
To turn off the acoustic signal open and close the refrigerator door.
To restore normal operation bring the FREEZER OPERATION knob
setting to
(off) and turn the appliance on again.
The green POWER indicator light flashes.
• The appliance is not operating correctly. Contact the Technical
Assistance Centre.
The refrigerator and the freezer do not cool well.
• The doors do not close properly or the seals are damaged.
• The doors are opened too frequently.
• The OPERATION knobs are not on the correct setting (
see
Description
).
• The refrigerator or the freezer have been over-filled.
The food inside the refrigerator is beginning to freeze.
• The REFRIGERATOR OPERATION knob is not on the correct
setting (
see Description
).
• The food is in contact with the back inside wall of the refrigerator.
The motor runs continuously.
• The SUPER FREEZE button has been pressed (rapid freezing):
the yellow SUPER FREEZE light is on or flashing (
see
Description
).
• The door is not closed properly or is continuously opened.
• The outside ambient temperature is very high.
Category moved from Computers to Hotpoint Refigerators. Larry doesn't like foreign stuff in his section. He has however given you the correct answer.
In 24 hours, it will have cooled, done a complete cycle including a Defrost. Your manual for extra points.
https://www.manualslib.com/products/Hotpoint-Mistral-Plus-8596-2814547.html
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Fridge with a freezer on top?
That is normally caused by an issue with the defrost timer. At the back of the freezer, you have the evaporator coils and because the defrost timer fails, it becomes one huge lump of ice. Because there is no air flow through it, cold air isn't vented down to the fridge.
PDF
All models have wheels at the rear and wheels / adjustable feet at the front. ... The fridge and freezer temperature settings are adjusted by selecting the + / - buttons ... To allow product handling and sufficient air circulation, leave at least 10 mm ...
PDF
It allows you to change the fridge temperature value, in a cyclical way; it also ... Do not obstruct the rear fan grills. The compressor ... If the floor is not perfectly horizontal, adjust the refrigerator by tightening or ... To avoid blocking the air circulation inside the freezer ... "wheeled bin" symbol on the product reminds you of your.
If turning down the thermostat doesn't reduce the cooling (makes it warmer), the thermostat is probably faulty causing the motor to run too much.
I have a RLA 80. Some time ago my fridge wasn't getting cold enough so I ordered a replacement thermostat and almost as an afterthought I gave the temperature adjusting knob an experimental tap with a screwdriver handle (known to often temporarily restore operation to any device that switches mains current). The fridge began working for a while and needed another tap...
I must have given it the treatment half a dozen times and it suddenly began working normally. I have yet to replace the thermostat and the replacement is ready for when the time comes, as it has been ready for about 3 years.
The drip tray should be firmly fixed to the top of the compressor unit - that gets quite warm during each cooling cycle. At the end of each cooling cycle the warming panel is switched on for a short time to melt the frost so the water drips into the tray shortly after the most heat is available to evaporate it and shortly after that the tray should be dry.
How can such a simple system fail?
Perhaps the tray is loose, perhaps the fridge is sited in a draught or perhaps there is a moist atmosphere in the fridge creating more frost and therefore too much water.
FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING:Optimumrefrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these
Checkurcold control thermostat,urthermistorsin both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as perurmodel ),urair flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) Onthermistorscheck for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As perurmodel. Most shouldatleastshow 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poorcooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.
Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.
Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check thedefrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engageurdefrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providingurterminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Placeurmeter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Takeurmeter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Nowur1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u knowurtimer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor,relay and or capacitoris overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.
To checkurcompressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somelocated next to compressor in a casing.
You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes tourstart winding, 1 goes tourrun winding and the center goes tourground.
Placeurmeter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prongagin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms
Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total ofurtwo separate test. 9 ohms, if they matchurok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short inurcompressor. It should show infinity
TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE
A3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) Thekit includes relay, capacitor, andoverload device, pre-wired. Thekit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use?proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.
The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection
Lastly you should also checkurTHERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.
1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL
As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.
On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold controlthermostat ( in the fridge compartment)with an alligator jumper.You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms-If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.
To test or change the coldcontrol, firstPull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plateor housing from it.
You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer
The air damper, baffle or diffuser is the device that balances the air flow from the evaporator fan housing. This normally is a mechanically controlled baffle or flapper that controls the amount of cold air entering the fresh food compartment. If the baffle is damaged or the linkage to the control knob is damaged, then you may not have enough cold air entering the fresh food compartment resulting in higher than normal temperatures. This baffle or damper will be located where the cold air enters the fresh food compartment.
Read more:
http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ
http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqXN-ZCuptk THIRMISTOR CHECK
Check the freezer: If your fridge does not have an auto-defrost function then excessive ice-build up in the freezer can cause the beeping alarm. If you see a lot of ice build-up in the icebox or freezer, switch off the fridge and let the ice thaw. Once the fridge is thawed, the beeping should stop.
https://www.appliance-insurance.co.uk/appliance-insurance-articles/6-causes-beeping-fridge/
If the fridge is overcooling it could be the thermostat. If the defrost panel is permanently switched on, overcooling might not be noticed but the condenser will become quite hot.
If running continuously, there is no overcooling and the condenser remains cool, either the compressor is defective or the refrigerant has leaked away.
hi
sounds like the freezer part has an ice blockage the clicking may well be the fan chipping at ice and no air flow will mean the freezer is partialy working yey not allowing cold air to fridge
if this is the case to proove point give unit a good defrost for as long as possible then turn unit back on
if this works it will require a service engineer to check the defrost cycle of the unit is no longer failing
good luck
