20 Most Recent Hotpoint HTS16HBR Top Freezer Refrigerator - Page 3 Questions & Answers

the water valve is leaking through causing the clumping . may not be leaking all the time / replace the valve and problem over .. mm

There should be some adjustment in the door hinges. Check the hinges to make sure the pin that enters the door is not broken. If it is, dril out the pin and replace it with a small bolt, put two nuts on the bolt and use the top nut to adjust the hight of the door.

Hello,

A noisy top freezer can be more than aggravating, it can also be a sign that something may be wrong with the appliance. With a little investigation, you will be able to find the cause for the noise so that you can determine how to rectify it.

Self-defrosting
If you chest freezer is a self-defrosting variety, you will find that it has a fan on one of the inside walls that enables this process to take place. Open the door and check whether this makes the sound worse; if this is the case, the problem is likely to lie with the fan. Ensure that it is not blocked by any food items or ice and is running properly. Clear away any items that are blocking it and tighten any loose fasteners. The motor that runs the fan can also cause a noise if it is old or defective and is struggling to continue running, if this is the case, the motor will need to be replaced.

Door Seal
Examine the door seal of the chest freezer to ensure that it is intact and has no defects. If there is a problem with the seal, it can prevent the door from closing properly which will force the freezer to work harder as it will also be cooling the air around the freezer. Replace the door seal and ensure that the door is able to close properly to see if this reduces the noise.

Element
The wire element that is either located on the rear or the base of your chest freezer. The element can often become noisy after getting covered in dust and debris. Rectify this by switching off the power supply before vacuuming the element. Carefully use a cloth to clean any other surrounding components that are affected by stubborn grime.

Ice Build Up
Where your chest freezer is unable to regulate itself, you may find that it can suffer a buildup of ice. When the ice become sufficiently thick, it will stop the freezer from being effective and will force the motor to work harder in order for it to keep working. Prevent this problem by defrosting your freezer on a regular basis or whenever it is required.

Condenser Fan
The condenser fan is likely to be located at the rear of the freezer and can become noisy if it is defective or covered in dirt. After switching off the power supply, use a cloth to clean the blades of the condenser fan if you find that the noise is coming from this component.

Compressor
The compressor is the black box that you will find on the base or rear of your freezer and is where the normal noise of the running the freezer comes from. The pipes and wires necessary for the freezer to work stem from this box and can become noisy if there is a problem, which is more likely with an older appliance. A defective compressor cannot be repaired so it will need to be replaced.

Hope this helpout...

If the compressor is not working at all , you will first of all check the power at your mains, Trace down wards from the main wire to the main relay unit. When the fridge is switched does it makes a chatter/ click , hear any hum on the motor before it goes still? If so you will need to check on the compressor motor. Use a clamp tester to check if the load current is exceeding and hence tripping off. If so the compressor unit will need a change. If there is no click at all then the relay can be faulty, this is a trip off/ relay and the contacts get bad over a period of time. The capacitor can also be faulty so that the motor will not start but make a humming noise. Hope you check this out and find out. Good day.

Good day,
Should not be too hard to resolve. If it has an ice maker you will have to remove it first. 3 screws and a wire plug.
Then remove the back panel. Most likely the fan motor is where the problem is.
Either the blades are hitting a piece of ice, which needs to be melted out. Be careful if using heat since most items are plastic and melt easily.
If not, then the blade pressed onto the motor has one of it's blades broken or the motor itself has a bad bearing.
If so, the motor is not repairable and must be replaced with a new one. Most appliance parts houses carry them, and it would be wise to buy a new blade at the same time.
Ordinary hand tools are all that are needed and it is a simple nuts and bolts repair.

Hi,

The defrost drain is located just under the cooling coils in the back of the freezer. You will need to unload the food and remove the shelves from the freezer. Take the back panel off from inside the freezer and you will see a hole just below the coils. Flush it with hot water using a turkey baster or small hose. See the link below for more details.

Defrost Drain

Hi,
Here is what is really happening and it is 100% repairable...

The drain for the water to get away when defrosting is frozen shut...
Checkout this tip to help you..

Water Running in Refrigerator from Freezer
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3780310-water_running_in_refrigerator_from

heatman101

The evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.

Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help. Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the back of the freezer.

that would be 3.14159 X 225mm squared X 900mm

or pi X Radus X Radus X height

that =
143,138,694 cubic mm

or 143,139 cubic cm

or 0.143138694 cubic meters

or 8734.859 cubic inch

Hi

Please check the link bellow and read the article therein thoroughly to diagnose the problem to your refrigerator…

http://www.repairclinic.com/Refrigerator-Troubleshooting#Itsstoppedcompletely

Let us know if you have something more to know else accept the suggestion.

Thank You for contacting Fixya.com

on the bottom door hinges there are bushes to adjust the hight they wear out in time,, if you take off the hinges on this door you can "pack out" the door hinge with steel washers to adjust the hight there by lifting the door up a little

Good day,
Open the freezer door. You should hear the fan motor running. If not, you will have to remove the rear panel, and check the motor. If it is bad. Replace.
If the fan motor is O.K. then it is a defrost system problem.
1. In the food compartment, behind the main controls is a slot that allows you to advance the timer. With the machine on, turn the shaft of the timer with a screw driver, until the machine shuts off. It is now in the defrost mode. Leave it like that for a minimum of 45 minutes. If it turns the machine back on, it is O.K. If not replace.
2. If the timer checks O.K. you will have to check the other 2 parts. To access them you have to remove the rear panel. One of the items is a defrost thermostat clipped to the top of the coil. To test, the machine must be at temperature. You will need to do theses tests with an ohm meter. The thermostat should test at zero ohms. If not (and it is the item that fails the most), replace it.
It looks something like this.


The last item is the main heater, that runs along the bottom of the coil.
It is a quartz glass heater. It should test out at no more than 35 ohms.
If bad. replace.

Unique to G.E. products, if the problem has been around a lot, the ice and frost buildup can migrate to the air return chutes. You can't see the buildup, nor melt it out. If the repair is done properly, and the machine, unfortunately must be emptied, unplugged, and left off for a minimum of 12 hours.

Here is a neat tutorial on defrost systems.

http://www.appliance411.com/faq/howdefrostworks.shtml

Remove the back panel of freezer. You'll find it mounted to the coils on the top right or left. It's about a inch around and 3/4 inch thick with 2 wires coming from it.

Hi,
There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not cool...here are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer

heatman101

Wire should be replaced. Possible to blow fuse.

Hi,
Check out this tip it will help you understand what may be happening...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4588788-refrigerator_or_freezer_not_cooling_or

heatman101

change fan motor

no,its your ptc overload contactor on the compressor that is bad,unplug the bad and install a new replacement

yes every new fridege comes with a radio active grimlin this is perfectly normal just remember to feed it or it will eat your pets and **** on your floor thank you that is all