20 Most Recent Hotpoint HSS25IFMCC / HSS25IFMWW Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 8 Questions & Answers

If you go to geappliances.com click on service and support then click on use and care manuals you can download a use and care manual. Since the refrigerator is white I'd probably use a good bleach spray on the mold be sure to rinse well though so you don't end up ingesting bleach. Chunk of ice sounds like too much water or not enough cold and a qualified tech might not be a bad idea. Good Luck.

fill with freeon

dear gig
check the colour light indicator for your water filter if red then the water dispenser will stop working until you change it. you will need your manual to read the icon presses after you change it to reset the colour indicator back to green

hope this is your problem solved

Replace the defrost timer. Good luck!
barneyluc

Remove back panel of freezer (where you see the frost) and melt the frost with a hair blower. The frost blocked evaporator coils are not allowing air to pass over the cold coils, so no cold air is able to get to the fresh foods section. You will most likely need to replace the defrost heater at the bottom of the evap coils to prevent this from reoccurring in two weeks time.

I RESET THE SWITCH ON THE ICE MAKER AND TURNED THE TEMP TO 9 FROM 5 AND IT STARTED MAKING MORE ICE. I'M NOT SURE WHAT WAS WRONG BUT IT APPEARS TO WORKING FINE NOW.

The motherboard is located under a rectangular cover on the back of the refrigerator. I'd check to make sure your defrost heater was good first. It's behind the back wall of the freezer section. (Part # WR51X10055)

sounds like the defrost thermostat or you may have a crack in the water line causing the freezing.

can yiou tell me what the repairman did? the ticking is the air damper but the cooling is a separate issue. call a different repairman to have them take a look at the compressor, heat exchanger or evaporator as these could all the be source of the problem.

is the ice side working? it could just be the water paddle or actuator or you may have a frozen water line.

You may have a double problem. One, you state that the damper stays shut. if the box is running 50 degrees, it should be wide open, My question is, do you think because that there is no air from the damper that it is closed? The usual problem on these units is that it is not defrosting and the evap coil gets blocked with ice. This will cause an air flow problem to the ref side, although the freezer seems to work. The most likely cause is a bad defrost heater. If not, then possible a bad damper if it is not opening.

When replaceing the heater, did you completly defrost the unit, meaning a clear, no frost on the evap coil? The other problem could be the bi-metal or timer. If the is a clicking sound, is from the compressor? Then unplug the unit for about 15 mins and see what it does.

there are what are called door "cams" on the bottom of the doors. One piece is on the bottom of the door and the other one is on the hinge. Both pieces need to be replaced and it is possible both your doors may need them. The parts come as a hinge assembly. That means you need to replaced the hinges on the bottom and they should come with the piece that goes on the bottom of the door also. You may also have a blocked defrost drain. There is a hole in the center rear, under the evap plate there where you see the dripping. that may need some air pressure blown through it to clear it. remeber, ever time the unit defrost, you will get that water.

The most common problem is the defrost drain blocked in the freezer. Take your bottom basket out, look at the botton back wall and see the drain. Try pouring some hot water down the drain. if it backs up, it is blocked. Try forcing some hot water down wit ha turkey baster, or very gently some compressed air and then some water.

Was the unit completly defrosted? Did the tech check to see if the compressor came on? Also, when the board is replaced, depending on the unit, there are wire to be cut so the board will work with that particular model. Check to see if the compressor is running first. then make sure the unit was defrosted. the other problem could be one of the thermistors deffrctive that control the defrost..

This is called a mullion heater and is perfectly normal as this heater prevents the area between the doors from freezing. No danger at all.

remove back panel inside freezer and evaporator pipework will be exposed.
if this is heavily iced up, airflow will be impeded and hence rise in temperature
disconnect from mains and melt ice off carefully with a hairdryer then switch back on
you probably have a fault with the defrost system if this is the case - get back to me

BET IT'S A GE? YOUR SOLENOID THAT OPENS AND CLOSES THE ICE FLAP HAS RUSTED AND WILL NOT CLOSE ALL THE WAY LETTING AIR IN AND FREEZING THE CHUTE,CALL LOCAL REPAIRMAN.THANKS-MIKE

RELAY BOTTON IN PANEL IS IN THE CLOSED POSTION KEEPING THE WATER FLOWING,REPLACE OR WATER INLET VALVE ON LOWER BACK OF FRIG. IS STUCK OPEN,REPLACE,THANKS-MIKE