20 Most Recent Acer AL1711 17" LCD Monitor - Page 3 Questions & Answers

I have the same problem on my Acer AL1711. The monitor was out of warranty so I opened it up and found one of the 1000 mf capacitor almost ready to pop. A 50 cents replacement from allelectronics.com fixed the problem.

Not recommended for anyone without experience soldering electronic components to PCB's.

R1 will be blown, replace it with a 10 ohm resistor. Also replace C6 and C22 with 220uf 25v Capacitors.

The screen resolution on your PC video card is set to high, the Acer monitor (rather than giving you ANY indication of whats wrong) just goes black. If you have another monitor, hook up to it and lower your resolution. You can also try going into safe mode and resetting your resolution there or deleting your video card and then on reboot into normal mode allowing it to re-install, where you could then reset your resolution.

can be controled by windows master volume in the windows control panel!

try moving the monitors.
it could be feedback signal.
also try different leads or without switch.
you will then be able to narrow down the problem to one component.

Check your settings in "Power Options Properties".
Control panel/ power options/ advanced/ under power buttons make sure you have "shut down" when you press the power button on your computer.
I hope I am understanding your problem correctly. If not pls. explain what you mean by and when processing auto config. keeps flashing. Is there a black screen or a windows interface?

White screen is normally a problem with the LCD panel,generally difficult to repair
Samir.

I don't know if you ever got a response to this post since it isn't attached to the exchanges you had with someone before. Always retrieve your original otherwise the person who assisted you is unlikely to see your reply.
BTW, if you have done this by now, did it solve your problem? Often, the larger caps are not at fault but smaller ones that handle feedback in an inverter. The main filter caps are not subjected to the high frequencies and ripple currents that destroy the electrolyte in them.     

There are some electrolytic capacitors in the power supply that need to be replaced. I believe it's 1000uf @25V. They put in 16V caps at the factory and they don't seem to hold up.

Old request but . . . .
If you have the monitor connected and turned on, reboot the PC. It's possible that Windows will see both the monitor and sound capabilities and reinstall drivers for both. 

Has your problem remained stable since you posted this in June or is it now completely dead?

These are pretty old now but I'll respond anyhow-
When there is absolutely no screen content and white, it means that ALL pixels are turned off; black, means all are turned on. If you have a white screen, it means that a component in the video stream has failed; a black screen (preferable failure!) often means that the backlight lamp or its inverter have failed. The latter is a potential DIY fix, a dead IC in the video path normally not since most of the signal chips (ICs) are placed and soldered by robots and the pin spacing on those is pretty much beyond the capabilites of an untrained hand.
The only exception I can think of is if the ICs no longer have voltage supplied to them from the main power supply but you would need at least a cheap multimeter to locate that. 

The inverters often fail from capacitors that have lost so much of their original capacitance and developed losses great enough to disable the circuit.

If you can identify the inverter section, you might want to replace any capacitors you see - a 'shotgun' approach, since locating the defective cap requires a fairly wide range capacitance meter with loss (DF) measurement feature unless you are lucky enough to locate one with a bulging top or crystalline deposits around the base. These instruments cost upwards of $200 so for a single use it doesn't make sense.  About the only part in that circuit that might be unique is the transformer so everything else can be bought or substituted. The lamp itself could have failed and these are available under similar part numbers from multiple sources. If the lamp has strong discoloration toward the ends, I would replace this first.

REF : NO SIGNAL A/V AND TV
Problem developed when switched on in the morning, and noticed above problem.
Tried Auto search on TV and still couldn't tune to any station or work in CCTV mode.

same prob on mine gues its the inverter board but not tried yet

This is possibly an inverter. When the monitor goes out, examine the LCD to see if you can see a faint image of the video being displayed. IF so, replace inverter. If not, possibly a bad LCD or video circuitry.

Your monitor has disco fever and will have to be shot in a midnight ritual in Palm Springs. Or, you will have to replace a diac circuit linking the display, power control, and power supply grounds (or possibly an overvolt protector of some sort in the power supply.) I don't know why for this kind of error the designer couldn't just put a message on the OSD in some random human language.

That's pretty easy; not much is wrong. You have a backlight with several sections to it, and one section has gone dark on you; once you carefully take the monitor apart (on old towels, perhaps) and find the backlight circuits and LEDs or compact fluorescents, clean the dust out and retry; if the dark bit persists, you get to repair the supply power (or replace the lamp) for the center bit. Usually it's an edge-lit light pipe (rigid or woven) that lights your 'stripe.'
If you search on the ODM model number you find once you open the thing up (i.e. on the guts) you might get a hint as to how the supply is set up and save some disassembly/reassembly steps or simply find a replacement balanced light-strip or LED equivalent to swap in. Otherwise test the larger capacitors in service in the backlight power section for warmth through a vinyl glove (having also taken other electrical service safety reviews of your bench, in 3 or more passes, with a friend around, so you don't casually spoil the mostly-working monitor or vital organ.) You could use AC probes to find a leaky cap too. (Probably something 3cm cubed with 6 to 8 like neighbors, natch; though it could be that an upstream component is bad and the center circuit merely the victim among the supplied circuits.)

Turn the monitor ON and continue to hold the power button for a few seconds.

Worked for me :)

Hi,

There may be four (4) ways the repair could be done:
1. board - an entirely new power board maybe available from the monitor manufacturer or you can Google for OEM provider;
2. board - a refurbished/reworked board may be available, again you have to Google. Both 1 & 2 would require that you search for the actual PCB assembly number;
3. use the power supply board from an identical unit that has defective LCD panel, inverter or other problems/defect other than the PSU; and
4. component level repair - determine which components in the power supply are defective and needs replacement.

All of the above would require time. Time to look for the replacement board, time to determine which component to replace, time to do the actual repair.

Cost - depends on the tech. Of course board assembly would cost more to purchase but should be relatively easy to perform and therefore should not be expensive in terms of service. On the other hand, component level repair often would be cheaper in terms of parts purchases but would cost more in terms of service fees.

Taking into considerations the above factors, it may be more to your advantage to do the repairs yourself (no service fee). Still should you be uncomfortable on a DIY, then the cost of repairs might justify the purchase of a new LCD monitor instead.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

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