20 Most Recent Acer AL1713 17" LCD Monitor Questions & Answers


Check out above link for AL1713 schematics and service guide.
Based on your explanation it seems you have some shorts problems with the other board.

Acer AL1713 17"... | Answered on Aug 15, 2017

You can turn up the volume via the speaker icon in the lower right hand corner. If that doesn't get it to the level you'd like, then the speakers there aren't that powerful.

Acer AL1713 17"... | Answered on Jun 19, 2011

Dear Sivakumar,
please try to remove and plug VGA cable back again to the monitor. and press the menu button in front of monitor if it doesn't giving any message in monitor it means that the control card inside the monitor is faulty.for fixing that you have to contact your local service center.

Acer AL1713 17"... | Answered on Jun 18, 2011

The backlight inverter circuits may have failed (blown fuse) or bad caps.<br /> <span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'">If you are going to DIY and have proper tools and know safety precaution then please read on:</span><br /> <span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'">Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply, blown fuses; poor solder joints, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed ACER monitors to get some ideas what to look for: <a href="http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums">http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums</a></span><br /> <span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'">Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also.</span><br /> <span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague</a><span style="mso-tab-count: 1"> </span></span><br /> <span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'">Capacitors kit: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span><a href="http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/">http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/</a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>he can make you a set of caps for you.</span><br />

Acer AL1713 17"... | Answered on Aug 26, 2010

Capacitors C6 and C22 usually are the problem on this model. They are 220uf at 25volts. you may also notice that resistor labeled R1 may be discolored or a little "toasty" so I generally replace it while i have it apart. It's a 10ohm 1/4 watt resistor. I hope this helps.

Acer AL1713 17"... | Answered on Feb 17, 2010

The short answer, replace all of the capacitors. They can be bad without swelling. And there may be one 47mf/16v off to itself, if it fails, monitor will not come on. Also, check the menu or mode setting to make sure your VGA/DVI agrees with the cable if the monitor has both.

Acer AL1713 17"... | Answered on Jan 01, 2010

Take the monitor apart, and replace any swollen electrolytic capacitors. If that doesn't help (and it probably will) then check for bad soldering and resolder any joints.

But if the capacitors are swollen that will almost certainly fix your issue.

Acer AL1713 17"... | Answered on Sep 21, 2009

Hi - there are more hidden screws so you need to undo those:
  1. Where the stand joins on the back, there are two plastic bits either side of the pivot. They don't look as if they come off but if you squeeze them (squeeze top and bottom) then they unclip.
  2. Remove the 4 metal screws you have just revealed (2 each side)
  3. Remove the 4 larger metal screws holding the stand to the monitor
  4. Remove 1 metal screw that you have just revealed which was hidden by the metal plate on the stand holder.
  5. Use a straight-bladed screwdriver to create a gap at the bottom of the monitor between the silver front / black back of the case.
  6. Open this up all around, and remove the silver front - undo the multi-cable connector which connects to the operating buttons and put the silver part to one side
  7. Lever out the monitor chassis.
  8. Put the LCD face down on a table but make sure there is nothing underneath it (I have two black blobs where mine sat on a bump in the table!)
  9. Then open up the cage with the electronics in it, by undoing 2 screws and sliding the cage off.
  10. Remove the four screws holding on the power board (the big one with a mains connector, disconnect any connectors, and then remove the board.
If your monitor is not working (even if the power light is dead), check for swollen electrolytic capacitors (tall things with an x at the top, made of metal with plastic around them). If you have swollen ones, that's probably why the monitor doesn't work. Replace them (make sure the + and - sides are in the correct places when you replace) and hopefully your monitor should work.

If it still doesn't work, look for any heat damage and poor soldering.

Acer AL1713 17"... | Answered on Sep 21, 2009

Hi - I've just fixed ny AL1921 which would be similar to yours internally. There are a couple of issues which are common:

Bad soldering around some of the copper coils (insulation may not have been properly stripped and leads to intermittent connection and (much more likely)

Blown electrolytics.

If you have ANY electrolytics on the main board which are swollen at the top or have electrolyte oozing out of them at the top or where they meet the board, then replace them.

My ACER started flickering and switching off randomly (no power light on the front either) and I though the power supply inside was toast. However, I found two electrolytics on the large power board (1000u / 16v) which had a black crust at the top. I replaced these and the monitor sprang back into life. Try to use replacements which have a temperature rating of 105 degrees C. Basically I think these things give out just after the guarantee runs out.

Hope that works for you.

Acer AL1713 17"... | Answered on Sep 21, 2009

Hello niki_amber.

Based on your statement "...I opened up to the inside of the computer, and cleaned it and dried it out...", it sounds as if you substantially took proper action. However, that's assuming you allowed it to dry for a loooong time. Translation: Based on my experience, my advise is always at least a few days. Because other than ...
  • immediately de-energizing,
  • mitigating the flow of liquid into the internal electrical components,
  • and as best you can disassemble and mop/wipe/rinse/clean to greatest extent possible
...allowing it to attain bone-dry condition prior to re-energizing (applying electrical current) is THE MOST IMPORTANT step. Otherwise you instantaneously void all those preceding diligent efforts by simply shorting out every component that finds the slightest moisture in its path ... and unfortunately, there ain't no way-back machine for that, at least not currently.

  • "...so I figure its damaged the Graphic card..." ... That's a very good call, cause it would be mine as well. However, I would still suggest hooking up an external monitor. If you get picture from that, you can almost assuredly rule out the graphics card as the culprit.
  • If I were you, for the sake of thoroughness, I would start from scratch and give it one more complete going-over, to include mild rinsing, as well as a thorough check of every connection point.
  • If after that it's still ookey, it'll be time to bring it to a competent repair tech ... unless of course you're technically capable of circuit testing and/or methodically swapping out each and every component in order to deduce the problem
Here's a very good checklist you can refer to whilst you endeavor away.

With a little luck, and much more prayer, you may just dodge the bullet.

Thanks in advance for posting back ...
  • to let me (and others) know how things worked out.
  • if you have any further questions.
  • to provide clarification or feedback.
"Today's the best day of my life ... and NOW you're part of it!"
Via-con-Dios and Godspeed -- Craig

Acer AL1713 17"... | Answered on Sep 21, 2009


the inverter has gone out. You need to get a new one, but it might be cheaper to buy a new monitor than have it replaced.

If you are able to do it yourself look for it on ebay.

Acer AL... | Answered on Nov 12, 2017

If your LCD TV or monitor has stopped working, or is displaying one of the following symptoms, then it's a candidate for some new capacitors
- Flickering screen
- Screen image disappears after several seconds
- Dim screen
- Slow start
- Power LED on, but no picture
- Unusual colors and/or lines
The primary cause of LCD TV and monitor failure is caused by faulty capacitors. You can examine the capacitors in your LCD TV or monitor and actually see if they are bad.
If they appear bulged on top, then they need to be replaced.
New capacitors will solve a host of problems in LCD monitors and TV's and will extend the life of your monitor or TV by several years.
Check the cables, connectors and connections.
Take it to a repair shop.

Acer AL... | Answered on Apr 25, 2014

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