Planar PL2010M 20" Flat Panel LCD Monitor - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If only one color is not working - it is usually just the connector of the screen or the monitor cable itself that is faulty. Remove the Monitor Data cable that plugs into your PC and check that NO pins are bent or pushed into the socket - then re-insert the VGA connector into the PC and make sure that the part of the cable that plugs into the monitor itself is also secured properly. That should solve the problem. If not - it could be the cable itself - bend the cable at the connector to check for a lose wire inside. If the color suddenly comes back - replace the data cable to the monitor.

Hope this helps
Good Luck

Navigate to the control panel, click Start then click control panel.

Double click power options.

On the Power Schemes tab ensure that the fields are set to NEVER.

You can however set the monitor to turn off after 20min which I do recommend, to make your computer more energy efficient.

damnor01

Common failures are due to bad caps in the power supply, that will be the first place to check.

Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide: http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/

Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you. Or www.digikey.com just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current, long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.

I have a similar problem on my Planar PD470; power supply failed after about a year and a half. I heard that their HDTV power supplies had a higher than normal failure rate. I have someone working with the company to resolve, but I'm not optimistic... Bah Humbug. How long have you had your set?

A Chip on the monitor circut board must be reflashed. You need to send back to Planar, do an rma. They were very responive to me, sent me a replacement.

Check the power supply first.
Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply, blown fuses, poor solder joints, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
http://www.badcaps.net

Sorry, but this sounds like a controller issue. Are you able to open the monitor's menu? If yes, try the monitor on another computer with other cables, if that doesn't help its a internal problem. The only thing you could try yourself is opening it up and reseat all of the cables. If that doesn't help, you should contact a professional or consider replacing the unit.

To find out, I would browse through the on-screen menu using buttons on the monitor to find an option "Reset to default" or "Factory Settings" or something to that effect.

Try booting the pc in safe mode (press f8 at startup). It may be possible that the pc is trying to send too high a resolution to the monitor...unlikely though. The symptom you describe usually indicates that the power board or the inverter board in the monitor are defective. If it does the same thing in safe mode, you have 2 options.

1. Replace the power board and inverter board (do the inverter board first.......it's the cheaper one (10-20 dollars).
2. Send the monitor back to the seller for a refund, or get a new monitor.

Sorry I couldn't give you more positive feedback. Hope this helps.

Joe

LED is on that indicates the power supply is working, so most likely you have there problem with inverter/backlight. To see easier how backlight behaves, unplug flat cable from processor board, so display itself won't be powered and light will go through it. Now if you turn on the monitor you will see the screen turns white for some short time and then turns off again. That's because CCFL driver chip turns into protection.
If you won't see any light, check the fuse on inverter and FETs in primary of inverter transformers.
If those are ok, next, you can localize the lamp, causing the problem - disconnect them one by one substituting with 27pf 3kV capacitors (equivalent load) and try turn on again until white light will stay for longer (while the controller is recognizing the signals from VGA input).
Post here the picture of inverter board (from the driver chip side).

reboot your system again..and for more info contact http://tinyurl.com/m7ghqz

This may be related to a power supply problem that these monitor have. I think you need to fix the power supply board inside the display itself. It's giving the logic board and backlights fluctuating power and they have weird / intermittant problems.
There is a supplier of power boards online, you can google them with numbers from the board but I don't suggest using them. Look for information on the company before you buy from them. I've seen a lot of complaints for this "international" company.


First check that you are getting a strong 12V from the external power adapter. If so, the problems may be as simple as changing out a few capacitors. (about $8 in new capacitors, plus shipping)

On the PL2010M monitors you need the following parts. I've added digikey part numbers to make life easier:

P10271-ND 220UF 25V Capacitor (3 or 4 depending on PS)
P10275-ND 470UF 25V Capacitor (1)
P10221-ND 470UF 10V Capacitor (4)

If you're not comfortable with soldering and de-soldering electronics, take it to a local technician for the work and give them the parts list above. That should work to fix your issues. I've fixed several of these monitors so far. All the problems were related to the power supplies having bad capacitors. Same with the Planar PL1700 LCD monitors.
There is also a single capacitor on the display logic board, but I haven't seen this one go bad yet.
Good luck!

-Chip

This is the same problem I've seen several times. Fix the power supply board inside the display itself. It's giving the logic board and backlights fluctuating power and they just can't keep up.

There is a supplier of power boards online, you can google them with numbers from the board but I don't suggest using them. Look for information on the company also. I've seen a lot of complaints for this "international" company.

The fix for most of the problems on these monitors is about $8 on new capacitors (Plus shipping).

First check that you are getting a strong 12V from the external power adapter. If so, the problems may be as simple as changing out a few capacitors.

On the PL2010M monitors you need the following parts. I've added digikey part numbers to make life easier:

P10271-ND 220UF 25V Capacitor (3 or 4 depending on PS)
P10275-ND 470UF 25V Capacitor (1)
P10221-ND 470UF 10V Capacitor (4)

If you're not comfortable with soldering and de-soldering electronics, take it to a local technitian for the work and give them the parts list above. That should work to fix your issues. I've fixed several of these monitors so far. All the problems were related to the power supplies having bad capacitors. Same with the Planar PL1700 LCD monitors.

Good luck!

-Chip

There is a supplier of power boards online, you can google them with numbers from the board but I don't suggest using them. Look for information on the company also. I've seen a lot of complaints for this "international" company.

The fix for most of the problems on these monitors is about $8 on new capacitors (Plus shipping).

First check that you are getting a strong 12V from the external power adapter. If so, the problems may be as simple as changing out a few capacitors.

On the PL2010M monitors you need the following parts. I've added digikey part numbers to make life easier:

P10271-ND 220UF 25V Capacitor (3 or 4 depending on PS)
P10275-ND 470UF 25V Capacitor (1)
P10221-ND 470UF 10V Capacitor (4)

If you're not comfortable with soldering and de-soldering electronics, take it to a local technitian for the work and give them the parts list above. That should work to fix your issues. I've fixed several of these monitors so far. All the problems were related to the power supplies having bad capacitors. Same with the Planar PL1700 LCD monitors.

Good luck!

-Chip

Are you sure it's the backlight? Many Planar LCD monitors have issues with the capacitors on their power supply boards. The symptoms include a power light and no picture, or just a flash of a picture when powering up and then nothing.

The fix for some of these problems is about $8 on new capacitors (Plus shipping).

On the PL2010M monitors you need the following parts. I've added digikey part numbers to make life easier:

P10271-ND 220UF 25V Capacitor (3/4 depending on PS)
P10275-ND 470UF 25V Capacitor (1)
P10221-ND 470UF 10V Capacitor (4)

If you're not comfortable with soldering and de-soldering electronics, take it to a local technitian for the work and give them the parts list above. That should work if the failure looks like I described. I've fixed several of these monitors so far. All the problems were related to the power supplies. Same with the Planar PL1700 LCD monitors.

Inverter board

I have 3 of PL2010 and they have the same problem. Everyone of them flashs and it goes black.

So the old power supply doesn't have the output voltage, current and polarity noted on the label? What a ripoff! *grin* Did you look on the case near where it plugs into the monitor? Sometimes that will tell you the voltasge and polarity. Poliarity? Get that one wrong and the monitor could be cooked instantly! But it's usually positive. I found a completed eBay listing that had this info: "the power supply which the seller used to power up this Planar Flat Panel is inventoried as follows: ViewSonic 12V Power Adaptor Model # SYS1126-5012" I looked that one up, and it's listed as 12V at 4.17A. PC Hub has them for $28.62: http://www.pchub.com/uph/laptop/345-19804-2285/AC_Power_Adapter_5V-12V_Others_SYS1126-5012.html Good luck!

1. Try a different DVI cable. 2. Check the monitor's settings and make sure it is set to the correct resolution. 3. Try a different computer or laptop to see if the issue is with the computer or the monitor. 4. Try a different DVI port on the computer. 5. Try a different monitor. 6. Check the video card settings and make sure it is set to the correct resolution. 7. Try a different video card

Make sure it is on level ground.