Top 20 Magic Chef 31000 Gas Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

There's not much difference except in the pressures of the gasses. The PROPANE must have a round attachment that controls the pressure of the gas, is inline, usually close to the tank. On the top of that device, valve, is a screw-type mechanism, often covered by a flat piece of plastic that can be gently pried off. If you research, you'll find how much to turn that set screw, and in what direction. It's quite easy.

If all 4 stopped working at the same time, the problem is with the spark modulator. If the igniter is working on several of the burners but not on another, (or any variation), the problem is with the igniter wiring harness. By design, the igniter for each burner is daisy chained in the wiring harness such that if one goes, the others will still work.

If you life up the top of your stove, the igniter should be just on the right side at the front - mine is far right. Mine went and I did not replace it, but now use a bic bbq lighter to start it instead. Just as easy and I do not have to put up with that annoying click-click. lol. You should be able to buy your replacement part at an appliance dealer, whether household or RV.

Make sure you clean them properly, Call a repair man if noise persists.

The igniters are electric they are probably shorted out check your circuit breaker make sure none of the switches are tripped

Sometimes the hot surface ignitors are fine, but they do not have enough draw to start the gas valve. If the oven doesn't light I would replace those first

There is no battery

Hay wendy , tech sheet says to replace oven temperature sensor , ( make sure the fans are running properly ,good luck APPLIANCES R EN

Oven does not work-I need your help!

Do not buy a stove like it any more it sucks.

F4 usually indicates a fault in the oven sensor or its wiring. If the wiring going to it is Ok, chances are that the sensor needs to be replaced. The oven sensor can usually also be tested for continuity and should read about 1100 ohms when at room temperature.

Hello,
The F1 error code means that the computer thinks a button on the touchpad is stuck. Sometimes this can be resolved by making sure the touchpad connector fits tight into the control board. The F1 code can be cleared by pushing CANCEL/OFF. If it returns the touchpad needs to be replaced GENE

Hi charleybead,

F2 error appears when the Oven temperature is too hot. Please check the sensor harness. Replace relay board, if present, or oven temperature sensor (RTD).

Hope it helps.

Thank you for using FixYa.

First off, decide which you have, a pilot lite or an igniter coil. In electronic controlled units, when the oven won't light, as long as there's gas available, 98% of the time the igniter is bad, even though the old one may glow and seem to be very bright, it could have a small hairline crack in the ceramic, which would not allow the proper amount of electrical current to travel to the gas oven safety valve, which would then make it open and release the gas. A new igniter works almost every time.

Just go to this website

http://www.partselect.com/Magic-Chef-Parts.htm

Its fast and easy if you need help click on the guy at the bottom of your screen after going to this website. Enter your model# of your stove and they will walk you right though and help you find what you need.

Good luck to you

It is common for mice to get into the oven box insulation and nest. I had this problem before and its not likely you'll be able to get rid of the odor without replacing the insulation. Another issue is any fecal matter the mice leave behind. This can become a health hazard (expecially in an appliance that you use to prepare food). I would recommend replacing the insulation. If the model oven is correct, the insulation can be purchased for around $20 at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The part number will depend upon your COMPLETE model number (located on a nameplate around the oven door opening, or lower drawer opening (if equipped). On some models, the model number will appear on the back of the operator console. The first three sites on the list include exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly indentifying any parts you may need. The insulation for the Magic Chef 31000 series is listed under the "Body" parts list.


To replace the insulation on MOST ranges, all you should have to do is lift the range top to access the oven box. The top on most ranges can be lifted by removing a series of screws that are usually holding it secure under the bottom of the front edge. You will need to open the oven door to see them. CAUTION: Do not lean on the oven door as this may cause damage to the door hinges and springs.

On the Magic Chef 31000 series, it appears that you will need to remove the burner control knobs, followed by screws holding the burner control control panel in place. You should also remove all the orifice covers and burner grates from the top of the range. Once the burner control is removed, remove the top panel, followed by the burner box top panel. The insulation will be wrapped around the oven box. It should just lift out. Depending on the potential infestation, you may want to wear a dust mask and use a vaccum to **** up any loose debris. CAUTION: Turn off the gas supply BEFORE attempting any repairs - if this is a gas range.

If you have questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Hello Bruce, welcome to FixYa.

If you can provide the complete model number (usually on inside of door frame or around the bottom door opening), I'll see what I can find for you.

There are many possible scenarios as I hope you can appreciate being this is a global repair site, so I'll need to clarify the make & model before moving forward.

Regards,

Macmarkus :) -->

Hi
There are a few things to check for: First make sure the electrode (the small metal piece that the spark comes off from) is clean and the holes in the burner are clean, use a pin or paper clip to clean out the burner holes. The next thing to check for are theignition switchesunder the surface control knobs, the switches can twist and break and keep the spark module on and the spark keeps "clicking" even when the burner is light. If every thing looks good, you may have a badsparkmodule which should be replaced as sometimes cleaning can get moisture into the surface switches; try drying them with a hair dryer to see if this will help. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel

hello, F1 is either a failed control or touch membrane. To determine which component is at fault, Unplug the oven disconnect ribbon strip plug back in and If NO fault code comes up, replace membrane, otherwise replace board

Hi,You have inspected both the baking and broiler heating elements, and you still can't find a problem with your range/oven parts? Inspect the connections between the heating element and the terminal. You could have a badly connected electric wire, or a burned out electric wire. Range/Oven parts must deal with both voltage and extreme heat, so it's a common problem to have a burned wire from time to time. This is a simple fix and if you check this problem in your initial run of troubleshooting, you may save yourself unnecessary purchases of range/oven parts, etc.

Also Voltage Check can be the problem.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!