20 Most Recent LG LFC21776ST 21 CF French Door Refer Cab Depth: LFC21776ST Refrigerator Stainless Steel - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Here are parts suppliers and the hinge is listed. https://www.google.com/search?q=LG+Fridge+middle+hinge+for+the+model+GR-329BV ..

The thermal fuse and the defrost sensor and also the fuse too have stopped working in your fridge and they all need to be replaced.

I had the same problem with my LG side by side fridge. After lots of hassles I found that one of the switches on the control panel had moisture in it. After changing the faulty switch all my problems were solved. No more beeping by it self and all the buttons work fine.

The raker might be jammed or either broken or stuck then or be clogged to make ice for your ice maker in your fridge.

Possibly a faulty main board or bad installation. I would contact the supplier for help. In the worst case, ask for a replacement or refund.

All that information is available on the manufacturers web site.

Open both freezer drawers and empty the bottom one and take out the bucket. On the left side, towards the front, there is a white vertical, smooth, surface. Tape a magnet there. Then you also have to unscrew a piece from each drawer, on the left hand side, as otherwise it will knock the magnet off. feel free to email me for help. I spent 3 hours before Shabbos until I figured it out. Email me at [email protected]

Condenser Coils clean or Evaporator Coils clean? An iced up evaporator coil can cause a freezer not to freeze goods. That is caused by a failed defrost timer or a failed defrost heater. Or it needs gas topping up.

More likely that the defrost drain is blocked. Does it do it once every 24 hours and normally you find the water in the morning?

This is an error code the computer is telling you. 4 bars usually means it is not defrosting. LG has a thermal fuse/defrost sensor that is usually called a "controller". If I remember right,the two orange will be the sensor and the blue/brown will be the thermal fuse. Unplug it from the cabinet and test it(blue/brown) to see if it is open and if so then replace it. I think the heater is around 70 ohms for the LG You will need to remove the evap cover to access it and it is usually located down the right side. part# is 6615JB2002R

It is suggested that some 24 hours may pass before an ice maker that is turned off and then turned on may produce ice. As amusing as that idea is, there is also the chance that the off/on switch is defective and requires replacement. If that is the case, switching it between on and off is actually not changing anything, causing your only working option to be to reset it manually. https://www.lg.com/us/support/help-library/no-ice-refrigerator-CT10000021-1400773605181 https://refrigeratorsreviewed.com/how-to-turn-off-ice-maker-on-lg-fridge-quick-guide/ If that is the problem, you may have to explore part replacement options and that search likely would require the model number of the LG.

Was almost ready to call the repair company but took the advice here and unplugged the fridge for an hour and cleared off the caked on ice on the back vent inside the freezer. It fixed it, no more rattle.

Check the freezer doors. Pull the tray out of the top drawer and see if there is ice build-up behind it causing it to not close all the way. I had to defrost my freezer to get rid of it. It also helped the ice fan from icing up stopping.

The fans need to run all the time, because it keeps the coils clear of frost. Air circulation should be constant. https://www.google.com/search?q=LG+LRMVC2306S%2C+top+left+fan+not+working ..

Various ideas and reset procedure Glenda. https://www.google.com/search?q=LG+refrigerator(Lfx25950sb)won%27t+work+after+power+outage ..

Sounds like you need an Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS). They will keep the fridge running for about an hour with no power at all and they also protect against brownouts, dirty power and surges. Mitsubishi Electric UPS - Uninterruptible Power Supplies Ad·http://www.mitsubishicritical.com/ Highly Reliable And Efficient Backup Power Solutions For Mission Critical Applications. #1 Battery Storage Company - Uninterruptible Power Supply Ad·https://www.demandpower.ca/ Our Energy Storage Company lets you Release Energy at Strategic Times. 24/7 Backup Power. Uninterruptible Power Supplies - Battery Backup from Tripp Lite Ad·https://www.tripplite.com/ Don't let power outages, brownouts and surges destroy your data and ruin your day.

Uninterruptible power supply - Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org > wiki > Uninterruptible_power... An uninterruptible power supply or uninterruptible power source (UPS) is an electrical apparatus that provides emergency power to a load when the input ... ‎Category:Uninterruptible... · ‎Emergency power system

There is no light sensor that I know of in any refrigerator. The light comes on when the door is opened. This breaks a contact in the light switch. The switch for the refrigerator is part 406B on this diagram: https://www.appliancepartspros.com/case-parts-parts-for-lg-lfc25776sb.html . The switch is on the left side below the rail holder in the freezer. If the switch is good, then the freezer wiring harness may have damaged insulation or a break that intermittently comes back into contact. The wiring harness is shown as part 250F; other vendors may have this in stock. I hope this helps. Depending on your skill and comfort level, you may want a professional repair tech to handle the repair. If the refrigerator is out of warranty (or out of warranty for labor), you need to decide if the total cost is worthwhile. Cindy Wells

lg doesnt make this model it should be a ge this link should assist

It depends on your model. I have a LRFD25850ST which is an older one from circa 2006. It's a side-by-side LG with the lower freezer. You can not turn the door alarm off, and the actual location of the beeper speaker itself seems to be INSIDE the left-side door, which would make it difficult to find to snip a wire. . Here's what I did to disable mine. Yours may not be exactly the same if it's not the same model, but maybe this will be helpful: -- Above each door hinge on top of the fridge (top left, top right) are two plastic covers held on by one screw and a snap tab. 1. On each side, remove the screw, and snap the cover off. 2. The cover has the plunger switch on it that is activated by the door. The switch has a plug-in connector with 4 wires on it. 3. Two of the wires are HEAVY. Two are thin (mine were thin gray wires) 4. Snip either one of the thin gray wires. That's it. You need to do this on both doors. I did not disable it on the lower rock-out freezer door, and did not look for where the similar switch is, because the freezer door is rarely if ever a problem for us. It's the two main fridge doors that always cause the beeping because it beeps in only 30 seconds which isn't even enough time to put a few groceries away or take out food to make dinner! One side effect is that the in-door water dispenser will now WORK even when the door is open. I consider that a plus, as shutting off the water dispenser just because somebody opens the opposite door is a royal pain in the.... And of course, you no longer have a door alarm, so if you leave the door open, your food will get warm or spoil. But honestly... people survived for 50 years with fridges that didn't "remind" them to close the door like a child. We don't need this nonsense.