20 Most Recent Toro 2-Cycle 25.4 cc Power Head 51944 Questions & Answers

Replace primer bulb or line and filter running from bulb to fuel tank.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/recoil-starter-asm-p-1527410.html

the high speed adjustment needs to be richened up to compensate for the lean air mixture at high altitude. it can run but will run fast and may damage the unit because it is lean. the high speed adjustment is the one marked H or the screw farthest from the engine. turn it counter clockwise while running at full speed until it runs at the correct RPM. any small engine repair center should be able to do this for you and keep you from causing irreparable damage If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/kelly_69a0cf1b13789df1

Question edited for clarity. When you put it away at the end of last snow season, I expect you just rolled it to the corner of the garage and left it until now? The two stroke gas in the carburetor, went bad and gummy. It starts on starter fluid because no gas is coming from the carb. https://www.google.com/search?q=toro+ccr+2450+carburetor+cleaning ..

See if the videos help. https://www.google.com/search?q=Briggs+and+Stratton+engine+model+252416+0757+01.install+the+spring+260695+for+the+governor+lever ..

did you make sure it has spark. i have learned over the years because an electronic is new doesn't mean its good? If it has spark remove the plug and put a bit of gas in the hole and re install plug see if it will fire on that gas. if it does its the carb something is probably blocking fuel. check the compression if its low compression it will not run. if u dont have a compression checker just remove the plug stick your finger tight over the plug hole and pull it over it should blow your finger off the hole.

Yes, decompression lowers cylinder pressure during low rpm while cranking. If you're concerned with compression, you need to do a leakdown test. Inexpensive (~$30) units are available through numerous eVendors. The leakdown test provides a metered volume of air that is translated and displayed on a pressure gauge simply labeled high (excessive leakage), moderate, or low (nominal leakage).

It's an L-head engine and once they get a few hundred hours run time, the valves wear into the hard seat, lash goes to zero, and they become hard to start. You can check valve lash by removing the crankcase breather (two screws). If lash is near zero, time for a valve job. Plenty of how to videos on the web. If it's easy start, just low power then less likely a valve lash issue.

There are many things that cause low power. Bad fuel, water in fuel (fuel bowl), fouled carburetor, poor spark, fouled plug, improper plug gap, wrong plug, weak ignition module.

If you have no forward, no reverse but the motor is still running normally the most likely reason for this is the main drive belt. This connects the motor to the transmission. If it stretches, breaks or drops off the drive pulleys you will lose all movement.

My thought is the seat safety switch is faulty, because normally these mowers won't work unless someone is sitting in the seat when if goes into the blade drive. There are other ideas in the videos. Frayed wires in the harness somewhere?

Yes, a high-pitched squeal coming from your electric snow blower when you turn on the blower could indicate a bearing issue. The blower motor is typically equipped with bearings to reduce friction and allow the motor to run smoothly. Over time, these bearings can wear out or become damaged, resulting in a squealing or grinding noise. If you suspect a bearing issue, it's important to have your snow blower inspected and repaired by a qualified technician or service center. Attempting to repair the snow blower on your own could be dangerous and may cause further damage to the machine.