20 Most Recent Summit SPWD1800 Laundry : Washer/Dryer Combos - Page 4 Questions & Answers

To remove the detergent drawer, you need to press and hold down the button on the inside of the dispenser while pulling out and lifting up on the drawer.

Washing Machines | Answered on May 04, 2020

Clean all contact areas on the lid and the washer. Try unplugging the washer to allow the control panel to reset.
Lid Lock Issues
  1. Press/hold for 3 seconds.
  2. Release for 3 seconds.
  3. Press/hold for 3 seconds.
  4. Release for 3 seconds.
  5. Press/hold for 3 seconds.
  6. Release.
  7. https://www.thespruce.com/troubleshooting-whirlpool-cabrio-washer-problems-repairs-2147317

Washing Machines | Answered on May 03, 2020

does it have a belt if so it could have broke or slipped off ot could just be the safety swich that locks the lid

Washing Machines | Answered on May 03, 2020

My toshiba washing machine errore code E-L .wat's the problem?

Washing Machines | Answered on May 02, 2020

If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.

Washing Machines | Answered on Apr 30, 2020


Washing Machines | Answered on Apr 30, 2020


Washing Machines | Answered on Apr 30, 2020

No agitation? ?

first use amultimeter and checkurwaterpressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash.the pressure switch is more than likely good
(IfNo wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do isRemove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Ortake the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into itATthe other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and udontfeel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. ?

Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbersIF U GET THEM WRONG) placeurmeter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity( open or close circuit)? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take noteaginwhat it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong.Agintake note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part.Aginplace a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it,using the meterdo the same testaginon all prongs.But now keep the pressure ontheswitch when u blow into it, in other words useurtongue ononeend of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test itaginnow one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.

If both check ok then nextCHECKthe motor coupler(a bad couplercan be checked by looking under the machine and taking note if there is a black residue on floor, look at coupler located between the motor andtranny, and see if it is broken up or missing any parts? Tryto turn shaft by hand and notice if it does not engage tub?)
or belt if belt driven.Check for loose, broken or worn belt .

Thencheck thedoor switchwith a multi meter for continuityOHMS when door closed and infinity when door is opened?, and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator.?

Also checkTHECAMDOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, ?AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS.?However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)
Remember to check the agitatorsplineas well.for worn broken teeth
By the way my advice is freecuzGod is good!

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Washing Machines | Answered on Apr 29, 2020

The washer tripped the breakeronce andORafter the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switchhad a short it wouldn't runadditional loads.if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there arethree placesthat could be causing the( outlet)GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that mostWashing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check isurlid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_orbroken open and the rubber sealdried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason,test andreplacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is freecuzGod is good!

Washing Machines | Answered on Apr 29, 2020


If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (orreplace the fuse) if necessary.

Lid Switch
The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one,the switch MAY BE BADand will need to be replaced.Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.

Door Interlock
The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.

Timer Knob
Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.

Push start switchmay need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on.
The start switchon some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in

If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.
By the way my advice is freecuzGod is good!

All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced


If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures.



Washing Machines | Answered on Apr 29, 2020



THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE DRIVE MOTOR-If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause avibrating noise.If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.

A worn drive block will usually have a pounding sound, like hammering metal, during spin when it first starts. If there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, you'll see it finally engage at top speed with an empty basket.Ina transmission lock upthe holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions.If you hear a loud bangevery time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions.

If the washer is making a loud noise thedrain pumpmight be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machineshave shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models oftop-load washers use tub dampening strapsto cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet

AlsoThere are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing(lithium base)grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well.

If your washer has aloud bangingnoiseduring spinthe balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is brokenreplace it.

Another noise issue can arise from a worn SNUBBER RING on some washers that have asnubberlike someMaytags, if u notice tiny pc's of white/grey shavings on the floor or around the bottom washer area? A sign of badsnubber.When removing to replace be careful as the spring underneath is pressure loaded.

A verysimiliarsound can be produced when the belt is worn but the difference is that asnubbernoise can be produced during the spin cycle or when the cycle has finished and the spin tub is coasting to a stop. A worn belt noise can only be produced while the motor is actively engaged in spinning the spin tub. If it is discovered that the belt is worn and the base has black, shredded belt residue then it may not necessary to clean it out (belt residue generally will not cause a problem with thesnubber). It will be necessary however, to find the cause of the belt failure.

Lastly Washer vibrationcan be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Urwashermay beequipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.
By the way my advice is freecuzGod is good!


The plastic drive is known as asplutch(splinedclutch). One problem with these washers has been loosening of the nut that locks the pulley to the agitator input shaft. If it gets loose, the pulley drops and the teeth no longer have good contact with the teeth of thesplutchbasket drive gear in spin mode. The solution is application of bluelocktiteto the threads of the input shaft. There have also been a lot of failures of the actuator that operates the cam ring of thesplutchwhich raises and lowers the basket drive gear. It is raised for agitate mode and lowered for spin. There is a spring between the basket drive gear and thegearcasehousing that maintains pressure on the basket drive gear. There are cams on the cam ring that ride up and down on cams in thesplutchcam (housing) as it is rotated by the actuator thus raising and lowering the basket drive gear. Thegearcasehas a planetary gear set in it.
One Way To Test For Spin Bearing Noise Is To Lift Up Top Part Of Machine With The Lid Taped Down, Explained Below, Put It In Spin Cycle, AndQuicklyPlace The Palms Of Your Hand Inside Of Basket Pushing Against Opposite Ends In The Basket To Stop It From Turning, Yes It Can Be Done Because It Takes A While Before It Starts Spinning At Full Speed, If Noise Has Gone Away, Its Your Spinner Bearing. Do Not Repeat Until You Stopped The Machine And Start Over Again. The Same Kind Of Noise Can Also Be A Bad Water Pump, Which Are Known To Fail And Have Since Been Redesigned, But That Noise Will Be Heard In Spin And Agitate Mode, And The Noise Will Have A Higher Pitch Sound, More Like A? Screeching Sound.

Washing Machines | Answered on Apr 29, 2020

Why Do My Plumbing Pipes Make A Knocking Noise? November 10, 2018 Plumbing
We've all heard strange noises around our homes and most of the sounds are harmless. But if you hear banging water pipes, this could be a sign of a serious plumbing problem. The top three causes of banging plumbing pipes are because of a water hammer, copper pipes or too high of water pressure. These sounds can be heard after a water supply is shut off, while the water is running and randomly throughout the day or night. Here are more in-depth reasons why your plumbing pipes are banging and remedies for those noises.

Water Hammer

When running water and is suddenly shut off, the rushing water has no place to go and slams against the shut-off valve. The sound you hear is called a water hammer. It may not sound like a big deal but a water hammer can potentially damage joints and connections in the pipes.
To address the water hammering, you'll need to inspect all visible piping while the noise is present to see if there are any loose or vibrating parts that need securing. Next, you'll need to check the air chamber. The air chamber is the vertical pipe located near your faucet and is often in the wall cavity that holds the plumbing connected to your sink or tub. The purpose of the chamber is to absorb the shock of fast-moving water that is suddenly stopped. Unfortunately, over time it loses its effectiveness and it will need to be replenished. To do that, turn off the water supply to your house. Open the faucets to drain out any water. Then turn the water supply back on. The incoming water will flush the air out of the pipes but not out of the air chamber. The air supply will then be restored to your air chamber.

Copper Pipes

You may also hear banging sounds coming from your plumbing if your home has copper pipes. Copper pipes tend to expand as hot water passes through them. If these pipes are in a tight area, they will expand and noisily rub against other structural features.
In most cases, expanding and contracting copper pipes will not cause a leak. And unless you are remodeling, there's no reason to add additional padding around these pipes. The simple solution would be to slightly lower the water temperature setting on your hot water heater.

Water Pressure

Another reason for banging water pipes is that the water pressure is too high. Most modern homes have pressure regulators that mount where the water supply enters the house. You may consider having one installed if your home doesn't have one. Too much water pressure could damage any water-supplied appliances like your washing machine or dishwasher. It's recommended that water is delivered to your home at no lower than 40 and no greater than 80 psi (pounds per square inch).

Washing Machines | Answered on Apr 29, 2020


How to Bypass a Washing Machine Lid Lock
  1. Turn off the washer and unplug the appliance. ...
  2. Locate the retaining tabs and/or screws that hold the top horizontal panel down. ...
  3. Look for the lid lock switch on the underside of the top panel and where it fits into the appliance. ...
  4. Put the lid back down and plug the washing machine back into the electrical outlet.

Washing Machines | Answered on Apr 29, 2020

My Hoover 700 la has stopped spinning

Washing Machines | Answered on Apr 28, 2020

Press and hold the start button for 3 - 5 Seconds.

Washing Machines | Answered on Apr 28, 2020

Aquarius are the most unique and interesting thinkers in the Zodiac. The Aquarius loves to read, theorize, and write. Aquarius can carry a thoughtful conversation about any topic. They may be impatient with people who aren’t as intellectual or unconventional as they are. The Aquarius dates are January 20 – February 18.

Washing Machines | Answered on Apr 26, 2020

Since the pump is working on the wash cycle it sounds like a problem with the control board that controls the operation of the washer. If this is the case then the control board will have to be replaced. You can order one online and replace it yourself if you're handy with tools.

Washing Machines | Answered on Apr 26, 2020


Samsung top-load washer error codes
  • 1E. Water level sensor failure. Check/ ...
  • 3E. Drive motor or hall sensor (tachometer) error. ...
  • nF or nF1. Water supply error. ...
  • nD. Won't drain. ...
  • AE. Communication error between the main electronic control board and the display control in the control panel. ...
  • E2. Stuck button. ...
  • DS, FL or LO. Lid lock/switch failure. ...
  • HE1. Heating element failure.
Switch off the power to the appliance, wait 30 seconds then Switch the power supply back on. The drain pump should operate to drain the washing machine. If problem persists please call the customer support team. Switch off the appliance at the mains then wait 30 seconds.May 22, 2019

Washing Machines | Answered on Apr 26, 2020

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