20 Most Recent Roper RAS6233KQ Top Load Washer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Hi. The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connected to it at the back of the washer. Start by turning off the water supply at the valves on the wall. Disconnect both hoses from the back of the washer. Place the hoses into a bucket and turn them on to confirm that you are getting good water pressure and to clear out any debris from the line.

Inspect the filter screens on both the hoses and the inlet valve for debris build up. If you find any debris, clean it out. Use caution to avoid damaging the filter screens because the screens in the valve are not replaceable.

If debris was not present then proceed to the next step of testing the solenoids. Access to the valve may be easiest by opening the top or the back of the washer, depending upon make and model.

There are two wires connected to each solenoid on the water inlet valve. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals ( Be sure to not pull the wires). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a continuity tester or multimeter to test for continuity. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. A reading of infinity indicates a bad solenoid that must be replaced. Different brands and models will have various measurements, but the valve should show some resistance if it is functioning properly. Test the second one in the same way as the first.

If the solenoid is working properly, but water leaks through the valve even when the washer is off, then the valve itself is the problem. Debris may be preventing the valve from closing. If the valve cannot be cleaned, it will have to be replaced. The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.

Check your lid switch. Symptoms may include, no spinning, no agitation, stopping at the rinse cycle and no draining. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

If the model number is correct, the part number for a replacement switch is 3949247. The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between these sites, so shop and compare.

If the suggestions I have listed do not match your washer symptoms, please post back and elaborate more on what the washer is/is not doing so I can provide you with better assistance. Please include your model number (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) if its different than the one you listed the question under so that I may be able to assist you better. I hope this information is helpful to you.

NOTE: Roper is manufactured by Whirlpool so these instructions do apply. In addition, if the tub is full of water, and will not drain, you do not need to drain the tub to complete this repair.

Check your spray arm that nothing got stuck in its holes. make sure the spray arm is turning all the time when using the machine :
put the spray arm in 90 degree position, turn the unit on , open the door after few min check that the spray arm move...
make sure your seal of the door is clean and nothing prevent it to close evenly the door...
good luck 911servicetoday . com

door switch need to be replace or bypass :) dont slam the door ...

door switch need to be replace or bypass :) dont slam the door next time ... :)

door switch need to be replace or bypass :) dont slam the door next time ...

Sounds like the pump is leaking. Tilt the machine back and put two 2x4s under the front legs. Shine a light under the machine and use a mirror to see where the water is coming from.
To change the pump:

1. Remove the two screws at the front right and left corners of the control panel. Tilt the panel back. Remove the 3 wire harness plug and the two gold clips on the right and left of the cabinet holding the cabinet to the back panel.
2. Tilt the cabinet forward and remove cabinet.
3. Locate the pump and remove the two hose clamps and the two clamps holding the pump to the front of the motor. Remove the pump.
4. Install the new pump
5. Reinstall the two hose clamps and the two clips holding the pump on.
6. Reinstall the cabinet, the three wire harness plug and the two gold clips holding the cabinet to the rear panel.
7. Tilt the control panel down and reinstall the two screws on each corner.

Your ready to do some more laundry.

Most likely the hot water solenoid on the water inlet valve has failed.
If the cold works - look at changing the solenoid - or the entire valve.

Thakns for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574231-replacing_a_motor_coupling

The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. This configuration is known as a "direct-drive" system. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient and should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.

Hi


Thank You for using FixYa. If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
It pumps, but doesn't spin
If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

Roper is manufactured by Whirlpool and uses Whirlpool parts. This is a fairly reliable washer and (from an appliance repairman's perspective) one of the easiest washers to troubleshoot and repair (if required). Nearly all the parts are inexpensive as well. The gearcase (transmission) is the most expensive part in the unit (about $150) and even it is simple to replace by the average do-it-yourselfer.

The dryer, if maintained properly, is also very reliable and an ease to work on. The heating circuits are the most common fail items and average about $100 to replace (all parts combined). This is also a simple appliance to work on from a repairman's point of view.

Make sure it is installed correctly, by using semi-rigid exhaust vent ducting. The following link can give you some helpful advice on how to maintain your dryer to prevent premature failure of components:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3578821-dryer_takes_too_long_to_dry

The number one cause of any dryer heat related problems is caused by poorly installed, excessively long, kinked, or clogged exhaust vent ducting. I can't express that enough. Failure to maintain a dryer by cleaning it periodically can also create a fire hazard.

The age of the appliance is determined by the SERIAL NUMBER. The following link explains how to determine the YEAR and WEEK of manufacture:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576437-determining_the_age_of_your_whirlpool_ap

If the units are in fairly decent shape, I would seriously consider purchasing them. Even the older Whirlpool manufactured washer and dryers still use the the same parts as the newer models today. So, age isn't necessarily a factor.

If you have any questions, or need future advice (if you experience any problems), please let me know. I hope this helps you.

there are two possible problems one the lid switch might be broken there is a small tab front right corner of lid that goes down into a hole to operate the switch which i beleive is still good because you can hear the moter hum there is a drive coupling between the moter and transmission if you lean the machine back you will find black rubber debries in the middle toward the front of machine before taking apart unplug from power the pump has two clips that hold it on top of moter there are two screws in two clips that hold the moter to a metal plate next to transmission the wiring harness plugs in to side of moter the drive coupling can be worked off gently with a wide screw driver from moter and transmission each plastic piece has three
pins that line up and fit into a hard black
rubber center the trick is lining it back up and clipping the metal supports back on moter i normally clip the top one back on first gravity assist with correct placement of moter to reinstal bottom clip reattach wiring harness two screws in moter clips reinstall pump will probably have to turn moter shaft to align with pump reinstall pump clips

may have had something in pump but them passes through .. mm

.I am not a repair professional. I am a 78 year old man
who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. So the washer or dryer ID doesn't mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and found that more than 4,700 people were asking for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer repair of my own and at that time I found an excellent video which showed me how to take my machine apart. This video made it possible for me to do my own repair. If you are repairing a dryer or a front load washer I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good step by step trouble shooting and repair information on washers and dryers as well as other appliances. If you have a direct drive top load washer and need help taking it apart this video is an early christmas present. I was so impressed with it that when I saw all these people needing help, I wanted to tell them about it. If you look at the back of your washer and the panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove which would indicate you have a v-belt drive) chances are you have a direct drive and this video is just what you need. You can see it at www.acmehowto.com You will probably still need help in determining what the trouble is and how to fix it. After viewing the video or if you have a v-belt drive rather than a direct drive, I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good
trouble shooting and repair nformation on most
washers and dryers. I think you'll find what you need
there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever
go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.

Good day,
Go back and start a wash cycle. When it fills and starts running check to see if the agitator is working. If not then go here for a detailed explanation on repairing.

http://repair2000.com/coupling.html

It's a tedious job, but with a lot of patience it can be done.
If the agitator in the wash cycle is working normally, then you have a major problem, and would require a service tech. Not cheap.

Most likely it is the valve that opens to let the water drain from the washer. located on the back just replace ot and this should solve the problems.

I am not a repair professional. I am just a 78 year old
man who has been making his own repairs for about
50 years. Therefore the washer or dryer ID doesn't
mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a
schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and
discovered that more than 4,700 people were asking
for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer
repair of my own and found an excellent video which
showed me how to take my machine apart. This
video made it possible for me to do my own repair. I
was so impressed with the video that when I saw all
these people needing help, I wanted to tell them
about it. If you have a top loader (washer) of the
direct drive type, this video might be a Godsend for
you. If you look at the back of your washer and the
panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove)
chances are you have a direct drive and this video
is just what you need. You can see this video at
www.acmehowto.com You will probably need
more help in determining what the problem is and
how to fix it. If your repair problem is a washer or
dryer I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com
where they have very good trouble shooting and
repair information on most washers and dryers.
I think you'll find what you need there. Don't worry
about the timer, they hardly ever go bad. Good
luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my
advice on fixya.

I am not a repair professional. I am just a 78 year old man who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. Therefore the washer ID doesn't mean
anything to me. If you google clothes washer repair, you'll be amazed at the amount of information available. There are a number of websites with parts list for various machines. You should be able to get a part number there and it probably would pay to buy an exact replacement.

Check your lid switch. If the washer fills and agitates, but stops at the rinse cycle, or, if the washer fills, then stops and will NOT drain, this is a common symptom of a lid switch malfunction. The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and there will be no small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between these sites, so shop and compare.

This is a very simple repair, but if you have questions, please post back with a complete model number (usually located around the wash tub rim under the lid) so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: You do not need to drain the washer to replace the switch.