20 Most Recent Roper RES7646KQ Electric Dryer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

the front has to be removed to re place the belt lift the top takeout the two screws holding the front on unplug the door switch then kinda snap the door forward the drum should stay put and then but the belt on and you should find the pulley it fits in a slot in the bottom part of the drier put it in its slots pull it back to put tension it then let it back to keep tension on the belt

Replace the heating element if it is bad. if it is not then replace the high limits mounted on it at top and bottom

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Check the heating element for the dryer.

I found it in this FixYa thread:

http://www.fixya.com/support/t1168199-roper_electryc_dryer_will_not_heat

Quick check list starting with the most likely to the mostly likely NOT:
Fuse mounted on the blowers housing this puppy is wired in with the door switch. If the lint in the dryer gets to blocking the exhaust then this puppy gets all hot and bothered and melts, causing the whole machine to come to a screeching halt just as if you have opened the dryer door. Clever ain't it? Clean out the lint and replace this fuse.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

How does the dealer know if they are good? Did he come to your home to check it? and if so why did he not check for power to the element? If your heater and t-stats are good the only thing that will prevent your heater from operating is the centrifugal switch on the motor. that's provided your t-stats and heater are in fact good. And you have the full 220 volts suppy to the dryer. Keep in mind the heating element is the only thing that's runs on 220 if you only have 120 powering the unit your timer and motor will still run. you can check the power by removing the plug cover on the dryer, you will have a red,white,and black wires from white to black you will read 120, from white to red you will read 120 and from red to black you will read 220 if you don't read 220 between black and red or 120 from red or black to white you have a power issue and nothing wrong with the dryer. Good luck hope this helps you

Check that you have 220v first. Your dryer will work on 110V but will not dry. You need to check all thermostats with a ohm meter (be sure to unplug dryer), they should be 2 ohms or less. Set ohm meter to 1x. If they are good go to heating element (your ohm meter should be on 1X as wel. You need to check to make sure you have continuity (however, this does not mean that it is not bad). You need to take it out and visually inspect it to make sure it has no breaks in the coil. If it does you can buy a rewire kit for runder 30 bucks for most models.

Yes, check the drum bearing, guides and slides.

Either one. Just get the middle in the middle(neutral) and either hot on either side. Green wire to ground. How simple is that. want photo?

3 wire:

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One of them drum wheels is bad.To get to it: Depending on the type of door the dryer has, is how you approach the access of these dryers. Mostly though you yank out the filter first.Remove the 2 screws in the filter housing on top.Then use a putty knife to pop the top. Remove the screws holding the front panel on. VERY IMPORTANT! Raise the front up an inch before pulling forward or the panel clips will break! Some models have a panel on bottom. If they do then this panel must come off first. Then you remove the door springs and back off the screws holding down the bottom of the door panel. Then pop the top and remove the screws on top to get the panel out of your way. Get the drum out and inspect the wheels. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Everthing is on the back. Unplug the appliance. remove the rear panel. This is a sweet machine. Very easy to fix. The element comes right off easily (2 screws either side of it). Look for breaks. if the element is kosher check the hi-limit mounted on the same heater above on the left. Hey here is some pic:NOTE Not shown is the 300 degree limit mounted at the top!!!

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it hooks in the back 2 set of slots just under the motor assy, with the U- turn portion of the bracket facing to the right, so the belt will be fed through under the roller, and by applying pressure (pushing the roller to the right loop the belt around the motor shaft, and release. tension should now be applied to the belt assy and the idler will be locked in place

hi i think the motor is unstable so the drying ability is decresing check and service it

you can put the back back on, remove the 2 screws under the lint filter( if ones mounted to top of machine ), then the top tips back revealing 2 5/16 screws holding the front panel on. lift off hte panel and string new belt arond drum and hook ove rht e motro pulley , first passing the belt through the idler tension pulley. belt number is a 341241

If your dryer cord is flat and gray, then simply attach the two outside wires from the cord to the left and right screws on the terminal block. Connect the center wire of the cord to the center screw of the terminal block. The only important wire is the center wire of the cord goes to the center screw of the terminal. The two outside wires don't matter.

This link, http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx, provides exploded view imagery, belt routing diagrams, parts imagery and function, parts ordering and shipping information, error code details, just about anything you need to get your appliance up and running again. Just follow the links to navigate through the site.

You will need to enter the model number stamped on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the User’s Manual. to access your product information.


Here are some common solutions to help resolve the issue with your appliance.
Clicking on the underlined links will take you directly to that page.

If your dryer doesn't work at all, or just stopped working, it could be because of problems with:

Power from the house
Door switch
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

Door switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.

For parts or diagrams, follow this link:
http://www.repairclinic.com/0003.asp

If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

Click this link for help.

This link, http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx, provides exploded view imagery, belt routing diagrams, parts imagery and function, parts ordering and shipping information, error code details, just about anything you need to get your appliance up and running again. Just follow the links to navigate through the site.

You will need to enter the model number stamped on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the User’s Manual. to access your product information.


Here are some common solutions to help resolve the issue with your appliance.
Clicking on the underlined links will take you directly to that page.
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Very rarely, a voltage issue could cause this symptom, but you should rule out the other possibilities first, unless you have a volt-ohm meter, then a quick check of the voltage MAY rule out these other issues.
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This could be a motor or drive system issue. To test for a motor problem, you will need to remove the drum belt. See exploded view diagram link below, for disassembly.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0100_16.asp

If the motor fails to start, replace the motor, See link below.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=2584&PPStack=1

If the motor starts, then you will have to look for:
1. Blower obstruction
2. Rear drum rollers.
3. Idler pulley
4. Drum belt, See link below
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=587636&PPStack=1

5. Front tub glide bearing and seal assembly. See link below.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=2702&PPStack=1


If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

what do you mean wont cut off ?? the heat?? the drum? was this on the top part of the heationg element?

did you try it on the timed cycle ?

The dryer only has the 1 belt that drives the drum. Shock Hazard Warning! Remove the dryer from its power source before accessing internal components.
Look for an obstruction in the blower which is attached to the front of the motor. Look for a foreign object stuck between the drum and bulkheads. Inspect for a broken belt. Inspect all drum rollers for free operation. Inspect idler pulley on rear of motor for free rotation with belt removed. Inspect drive pulley on rear of motor. All this can be done through the front of the dryer by removing the front panel enclosure.

Hope this helps!