Zanussi 24 in. ZSF6160 Free-standing Dishwasher - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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The problem is with the water not draining properly or is overflowing. If the water did not drain completely then check the drain hose & drain pump filter for any clogs/obstructions, to do this you'll have to take the front bottom panel out and then clean it completely. If you have already cleaned these parts and the unit will not work then replacing the drain pump is recommended repair. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to find out why water will not come into thedishwasher...

Dishwasher Trouble No Water entering Dishwasher

heatman101

if you can here the drain pump run at the start the fault is with the water valve or blockage in the side tank on the lh side. if you dont here the drain pump it possibly the heater thats down to earth. the electronics can detact it and not start the prog if heater faulty.

If it used to get hot then I would check your water heater then the hot water supply connection to the dishwasher

Hi,
Check your heating element..

Dishwasher Problems The Heating Element not Working
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4589033-dishwasher_problems_heating_element_not

Dishwasher Maintenance
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4319937-dishwasher_maintenance

heatman101

measure the heating element resistance it should be around 25 ohm.
otherwise it is the problem.

You can replace the relay, sometimes it stop working with no external damage signs

that will be the callrod heater at the bottom look at it in the bottom to see if you see any cracks
not an easy job

probably not, believe it or not. If they actually designed a trace to fail under load, then they could not predict when it may happen. Yes, things get more load-some over long use and demand more current, but the pcb trace was probably not intentionally too small. Let's say it was designed too small. So at first startup it carries 9.5 Amps. The next factory unit draws 9.8 amps. the next unit, wait a minute, draws 10 amps and blew the trace before it got shipped. I think this under-design was a simple oversight, but one that should have demanded a product recall from Zanussi that would send a tech to every unit to install a pcb with a beefier trace. Email Zanussi and complain! Just curious...can you measure how wide is this pcb trace? It should be about 1/4 inch wide.

Mantona, you're on the right track. Your heater terminals are large, insulated and poke through the tub facing downward. To test this, remove one of the wires connected to the terminal, then check OHMS. If this is what you did, you don't have to do that again. Elements rarely fail, the problem most likely resides in the hi-limit thermostat. You know where the element is, now follow one of the wires back toward the control panel. One of the element wires will pass through the thermostat (in series) before going to the control. The thermostat is mounted tightly to the bottom of the tub, touching it to monitor temperature. When you find it, remove one of the wires (there are 2) and check OHMS. You should read ~1 Ohm, if you read infinity, you found the problem. (You can verify your finding by removing both wires from it and connect them together. Then run a wash load to check the heater. Don't leave it in this condition! The thermostat is a safety device and should not be permanently bypassed! If your test of the t'stat proves that it's OK, you'll have to test it with power on and running. I can walk you through this if needed. Let us know how it turns out.

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If it is new, it is under warranty and if you try to fix it, it will void the warranty. The water in the flood tray comes from the machine itself, normally from hoses or on an older machine pump seals. Page 17 refers and confirms https://manualzz.com/doc/53457617/zanussi-zdln1512-user-manual Call for warranty service to fix the fault free of charge.

input to pump clogged output clogged pump bad or just dirty inside. leaks end to end that path, In and output.

Under the base of the machine, above the floor there is a tray with a sensor in it and that is what triggers the Flood Error Code. So the machine needs to come out, the back or side panel removed and the tray thoroughly dried. You also need to find where that water came from. If the salt container is in the base, it may be leaking if you were breaking up the salt.

get a tech out there, as these appliances get more sophicated, they become nightmares its best to buy a basic model

There is no external adjustment in a dishwasher.

Bad timer zz

It is normal that after adding the salt it takes time to dissolve, which means that the salt lamp will be extinguished after several complete washing cycles. Dado

Pull it out of the cabinet and they are all there.

Since it is brand new, you should be able to request repair, replacement, or refund under the warranty.